Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:
TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.
Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).
Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:
Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)
First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/
Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.
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Author(s): Gerald Krug
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9783981951585
A comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Ostrov (Eiland), covering over 3,300 routes on sandstone rock
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