Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.


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Grade Route

FA: Rudolf Stuchlík & P.Fischer

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: Karel Bělina & K.Frič, 1980

FA: Karel Frič & K.Bělina, 1980

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Author(s): Gerald Krug

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9783981951585

Dieser Kletterführer beschreibt alle Tradrouten an den Sandsteingipfeln rund um Ostrov. Die Fakten: 400 Felsen, 750 Fototopos, 3800 Routen. Der Komplettführer ist zwei (-einhalb)sprachig: Deutsch, Englisch, z.T. Tschechisch (Gipfel und Routen).

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