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Malá Nebeská stěna

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 4
  • Aka: Kleine Himmelswand

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP").

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system! (see grading in description)

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

Routes

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Grade Route

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: Jindřich Maumruk & Z.Kovař, 1988

pod 2.K doleva na hranu je to cca VIIb

FA: Karel Bělina, J.Luft, P.Bayer & P.Wilde, 1990

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb

FA: Jindřich Vlček und Karel Bělina & J.Janiš, 1987

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc

FA: Karel Bělina, V.Valouch, Z.Folta & P.Bechyně, 1987

FA: Jan Hoblák, 1986

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa

FA: Karel Bělina & J.Vlček, 1987

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc

FA: Petr Slanina, J.Voves & R.Škoda, 1990

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc

FA: Petr Slanina & J.Maděra, 1992

In TOPO guide the original Marta route is incorrectly drawn as Einsteigsvariante Marta.

Cestou Kristova léta k 1. kruhu. Stěnou vzhůru ke 2. kruhu. Stěnou doprava na hranu a po hraně až k vodorovnému přerušení. Doleva ke 3. kruhu a stěnou na vrchol.

FA: Jan Voves und Jan Hoblák & K.Bělina, 1987

FA: Jan Hoblák & V.Jarolím, 1986

FA: Jindřich Hudeček und Karel Bělina, 1987

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V

FA: Karel Bělina, 1987

FA: Karel Bělina & T.Vacek, 1987

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb

FA: Jiří Žák & B.Metal, 1995

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerald Krug

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9783981951585

A comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Ostrov (Eiland), covering over 3,300 routes on sandstone rock

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