Velká nebeská stěna

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 13
  • Aka: Große Himmelswand



Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.


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The two R are close to each other directly on the edge. Use the crack until the first R in about 15m. The one R 5m from ground is not from this route and unclear what it is.

Širokou spárou mezi Prostřední a Velkou nebeskou stěnou na polici k 1.kruhu při hraně přes 2.kruh a vpravo spárou n.v.

FA: Karel Bělina, M.Navrátil, V.Appel & G.Vymětalová, 1987

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa

FA: Martin Jelínek & P.Kotrč, 1988


Sladká Francie does not go to the R of Rambo. Above the large overhang it goes right to corner/flake and above directly via two silver R.

Spárou středem S (údolní) stěny doleva pod velký převis (hodiny). Přes převis vlevo na polici a doprava koutem a sokolíkem k 1.kruhu. Převislou stěnou přes 2.kruh přímo středem na vrchol.

FA: Jan Voves und Jan Hoblák, 1990

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIIa

FA: Tomáš Meier und Karel Bělina, 1987

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc

FA: Petr Slanina & J.Maděra, 1992

FA: Petr Slanina v.u.g., 1990

FA: Jindřich Šajner & J.Šejnoha

FA: Petr Slanina & J.Maděra, 1990

FA: Petr Slanina & J.Maděra, 1990


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerald Krug

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9783981951585

A comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Ostrov (Eiland), covering over 3,300 routes on sandstone rock

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sun 3 Dec
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