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Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Rechts in der Ostseite über Stufen zG.

Rechts in der Ostwand, Wand zu Ring und über Band zG.

FA: Karel Bělina, F.Žid & T.Vlček, 2010

Links in der Ostwand, Riss mit überhängendem Einstieg zG.

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: František Žid & M.Vaněk, 2009

Schmalen Südpfeiler über Ring zG.

FA: Karel Bělina & F.Žid, 2010

Kamin über großen Klemmblock zG.

FA: František Žid & M.Vaněk, 2009

Runde Südwestkante zum Gipfel

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: Karel Bělina & F.Žid, 2010

FA: František Žid & M.Vaněk, 2009

Westwand zG.

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: František Žid & M.Vaněk, 2009

Aus dem Bereich zum Dreikönigsmassiv rechts an der Kante zu Ring, auf großen Absatz zu 2. Ring von 'Eiskugel', Kante zG.

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V

FA: Tomáš Vlček, K.Bělina & F.Žid, 2009

Rechts neben 'Westkamin' Wand und Riss zu Ring, Riss zu großem Absatz und 2. Ring, Kante zG.

FA: Karel Bělina, T.Vlček & F.Žid, 2010

Vom Einstieg 'Westkamin' Riss zu zwei Eisenspitzen (Schlinge), Riss zG.

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V

FA: František Žid & M.Vaněk, 2009

Kamin über Blöcke zG.

FA: František Žid & M.Vaněk, 2009

Links vom 'Westamin' Kante über Ring zG.

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V

FA: Karel Bělina & L.Balík, 2010

aus der Scharte zum Dreikönigsmassiv Riss zG.

FA: František Žid & M.Vaněk, 2009

Links neben 'Nordostriss' kurzen Kamin zG.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerald Krug

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9783981951585

A comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Ostrov (Eiland), covering over 3,300 routes on sandstone rock

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Tue 28 Nov
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