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Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

Průvodce Ostrov: standard czech text guide, 2021, ~19€, uses traditional Ostrov grading system

Geoquest Kletterführer Ostrov: TOPO guide in German and English, 2020, ~40€, uses saxon grading system in line with Bielatal

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

Routes

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Grade Route

Wand

FA: Ernst Rost, O.Lugenheim & K.Rost, 1909

FA: Jiří Pražák & Moka, 1988

FA: Miloš Matras & J.Budín, 1967

FA: Karel Bělina & Z.Hubka, 1970

Wand, Riss

FA: Rudolf Vogler, W. Mädler, R. Meißner & K. Herrmann, 1910

FA: Miroslav Mžourek und Karel Bělina und Jiří Janiš, 1985

Riss, Hangel, Wand

FA: Miloš Matras & R. Stuchlík, 1968

FA: Karel Bělina & D.Hölzl, 2001

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