Káča Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

vilda_hkvdf Elmo Rainer H. Franta Kaván GregorR Player One Jiří Železný

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Káča / Kreisel 9 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Káča 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.801990, 14.053660

access issues

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

inherited from Ostrov

ethic

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)
First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/
Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

inherited from Labské pískovce

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Stará cesta / Alter Weg FA: Fritz Vogler & R.Vogler, 1910	III	Trad
2	★ Varianta Staré cesty / Variante zum AW FA: Wilhelm Walter & K.Herrmann, 1910	IV	Trad
3	!Posvícení / Kirchweih FA: Karel Bělina, M.Mžourek & P.Stingl, 1985	VIIc	Mixed trad 1
4	★★ Zkouřenky FA: Jan Hoblák & J.Voves, 1991	VIIa	Mixed trad 1
5	★★ Údolní cesta / Západní hrana / Westkante (Talweg) FA: Otto Dietrich, J. Unger, P. Bader & H.Miersch, 1920	V	Mixed trad 15m, 1
6	★★ Utíkej, Káčo / Dreh dich, Kreisel Wand FA: Karel Bělina & L.Matějíčková u.a., 1985	VIIIa	Mixed trad 27m, 2
7	Cesta pro Mílu / Weg für Míla SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa FA: Karel Bělina & J.Hanuš, 1969	VIIa	Trad
8	Severovýchodní stěna / Nordostwand SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI FA: Walther Geipel, M.Wunderwald, G.Liebert, K.Matticzk & P.Jakob, 1913	VI	Trad
9	Skrblíci / Geizhälse SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb FA: Karel Bělina & J.Malík, 1991	VIIb	Mixed trad 1

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
III		Stará cesta	Trad
IV	★	Varianta Staré cesty	Trad
V	★★	Údolní cesta	Mixed trad 15m, 1
VI		Severovýchodní stěna	Trad
VIIa		Cesta pro Mílu	Trad
	★★	Zkouřenky	Mixed trad 1
VIIb		Skrblíci	Mixed trad 1
VIIc		!Posvícení	Mixed trad 1
VIIIa	★★	Utíkej, Káčo	Mixed trad 27m, 2