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Summary

High walls along the Elbe river and its side valleys

Description

Psáno do písku - Na břehu [Written in the Sand - On the Bank] [short film]. Alternative.NOW, HUDYsport, 2019. (czech)

Access issues inherited from Czechia

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

Approach

Get the local climbing guidebook from HUDY Hřensko or Refugio Tisá.

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

History

History timeline chart

#trad: typically routes created before 1990, long runouts, trad-rack needed, climbed without chalk. Check "Smyslů zbaveni" IXc with no protection in the first 30 meters.

#sport: rather new routes, bolted, shorter runouts (but still measured in metures), chalk generally used

#grade scale is tougher than the one in Saxony Switzerland, approximately by one point.

Clibing started in 1904 when Klarka tower was reached. Climbing was developed first by german climbers and after WWII by czechs. The rules had been very strict regarding first ascents and placing fixed protection resulting in fearless, risky but valuable #trad ascents. In mid 90s, first #sport routes were established and climbing moved rather to high performance direction. Trend of sport routes is still viewed negatively by some trad climbers but its no doubt that the new routes made Labské údolí number one sport location in the Czech republic. Both trad and sport routes coexist next to each other. Choose wisely!

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