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Pravý břeh

  • Grade context: SX
  • Photos: 8
  • Ascents: 306
  • Aka: Rechtes Ufer
  • Aka: Right riverside

Seasonality

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Description

Most of the crags are inside the NPR Kaňon Labe protected area. Pay attention to local climbing rules and bird nesting closures. See ethics.

The grade system is usualy one grade tougher compared to the one used in Saxony Switzerland.

Cliffs and routes to be sorted left-to-right, when you look from elbe towards the rocks. Same as in climbing guidebook Chocholoušek&Nehasil, 2015.

Access issues

Main parking places are:

  1. Labská Stráň: Belveder now with "no parking" sign and occasionally fined. Few places are also in the centre of Labska Stran. Parking at cemetery is prohibited, don't go there!

  2. So called pila: (50.8202, 14.2488) near Bynovec is ok but car break-ins occur

  3. Cemetery Ludvíkovice - OK

  4. Main street Hřensko-Děčín, near ferry to Dolní Žleb - OK

Approach

Get the local climbing guidebook from U Kosti, HUDY Hřensko or Refugio Tisá.

Ethic

  1. Use of chalk is prohibited. Note that 95% of sport routes are climbed with chalk despite the rule.

  2. Certain crags are closed from 1.2. to 30.6. due to bird nesting. Check the access issues of each sub-area or map in the pictures.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No changing of the rock surface.

  5. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock and during daylight.

  6. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock).

  7. Jumping (=přeskok, Sprung) is not allowed.

  8. First ascents must be approved first with the local CHS administrator and National Park.

Referred official document

History

History timeline chart

#trad: typically routes created before 1990, long runouts, trad-rack needed, climbed without chalk. Check "Smyslů zbaveni" IXc with no protection in the first 30 meters.

#sport: rather new routes, bolted, shorter runouts (but still measured in metures), chalk generally used although banned on Right bank

#grade scale is tougher than the one in Saxony Switzerland, approximately by one point.

Clibing started in 1904 when Klarka tower was reached. Climbing was developed first by german climbers and after WWII by czechs. The rules had been very strict regarding first ascents and placing fixed protection resulting in fearless, risky but valuable #trad ascents. In mid 90s, first #sport routes were established and climbing moved rather to high performance direction. Trend of sport routes is still viewed negatively by some trad climbers but its no doubt that the new routes made Labské údolí number one sport location in the Czech republic. Both trad and sport routes coexist next to each other. Choose wisely!

Tags

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Šoulend area
173
8
15m
Centrum area
201
99
51m
2

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