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Europe Guide

  SPORT 55%   TRAD 22%   BOULDER 18%   UNKNOWN 3%   TOP ROPE .3%  AID .2%  DEEP WATER SOLO .2%  ALPINE .2%  ICE .2%  VIA FERRATA .09%

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Europe 654,020 routes in Region

31 12 17 40 35 11 22 10 43 24 4 18 30 32 14 5 25 9 20 37 42 3 16 23 28 41 38 13 34 8 36 6 7 29 21 2 26 19 1 15 33 27 39
1 Albania 2 Andorra 3 Austria 4 Belarus 5 Belgium 6 Bosnia and Herzegovina 7 Bulgaria 8 Croatia 9 Czechia 10 Denmark 11 Estonia 12 Finland 13 France 14 Germany 15 Greece 16 Hungary 17 Iceland 18 Ireland 19 Italy 20 Jersey 21 Kosovo 22 Latvia 23 Liechtenstein 24 Lithuania 25 Luxembourg 26 North Macedonia 27 Repubblika ta’ Malta 28 Moldova 29 Montenegro 30 Netherlands 31 Norway 32 Poland 33 Portugal 34 Romania 35 Russia 36 Serbia 37 Slovakia 38 Slovenia 39 Spain 40 Sweden 41 Switzerland 42 Ukraine 43 United Kingdom
Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 54.294976, 73.107638

1.1. Albania 113 routes in Region

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4 2 3 1 8 7 5 6
1 Tirana 2 Bovilla 3 Brar 4 Maja e Harapit 5 Maja e Papingut 6 Gjipe 7 Petran 8 Lengarica
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.097320, 19.995283

description

http://climbingalbania.com

http://bigwalls.net/climb/AlbaniaRockclimbing.pdf

http://www.summitpost.org/albanian-or-south-dinaric-alps/433774#chapter_11

http://www.globoalpin.com/files/ga/bilder/blog/2014/04/Albanien_2_15.pdf

1.1.1. Tirana 0 routes in Crag

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1.1.2. Bovilla 10 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.447390, 19.894446

description

http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/sites/default/files/Albania_Climbing_Guide.pdf (pages 10 til 15)

1.1.3. Brar 7 routes in Area

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.401070, 19.900160

description

sportclimbing in canyon. routes from 6b+ up

http://climbingalbania.com/climbing%20spot/brar/

1.1.4. Maja e Harapit 2 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.442472, 19.754390

description

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maja_Harapit

http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/sites/default/files/Albania_Climbing_Guide.pdf

http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/sites/default/files/topo_tschackalacka_arapi_albanien_0.pdf

http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/sites/default/files/Aarapi_Suedwand__0.jpg

1.1.5. Maja e Papingut 0 routes in Crag

List view

description

http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/sites/default/files/Maja%20e%20Papingut.pdf

1.1.6. Gjipe 62 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.128634, 19.673302

summary

Limestone gorge at the sea with recent development. Great climbing, nice beach and sea. A perfect holiday spot.

description

Mostly good quality rock on both sides of the gorge which allows you to play with the sun and shade.

Topo: http://climbingalbania.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Gjipe_Topo.pdf

approach

The beach of Gjipe-gorge is between the villages of Vuno and Ilias. If you don't have a high clearance 4x4 it is better to park at the top and hike down to the beach and from there into the gorge.

where to stay

Accomodation in close-by Himare, camping in Jala or at the beach.

1.1.7. Petran 18 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.209713, 20.411670

description

Topo can be downloaded here: http://www.climbingalbania.com/climbing%20spot/permet/

access issues

Very sunny with little to no shade.

approach

Park by the simple campground east of the road. The path to the crag starts right below the electricity mast on the western side of the road.

1.1.8. Lengarica 14 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.245960, 20.439778

description

http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/sites/default/files/Lengarica_Canon_Topo_.pdf

1.2. Andorra 446 routes in Region

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16 15 17 29 30 28 12 11 27 10 33 23 9 24 22 32 20 19 18 21 31 7 6 25 8 5 4 3 1 2
1 Sant Martí de Nagol 2 Sector Juberri 3 La Margineda 4 Riu d'Enclar 5 Solà d’Enclar 6 Pilar Mingo 7 Piràmide 8 Llastra de l’Obac 9 Sant Antoni de la Grella 10 Roc dels Palinquerons 11 Reno 12 Roc de la Coma 15 Encodina 16 Creusans 17 Arcalís 18 Roc de la Guilla 19 Agulles d’Engolasters 20 Fissuròmetre 21 Boulder de Coll Jovell 22 El Carcamanyà 23 Prohibit 24 l'Oral 25 Vall de les Agols 27 Riu Urina 28 Mur Cascada de Les Moles 29 Roc dels Coms 30 Juclar 31 Pic de Ríbuls 32 Pic de l'Esquella 33 Clots Fondos
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.545675, 1.577497

1.2.1. Sant Martí de Nagol 2 routes in Area

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Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.474808, 1.493166

approach

Aparcar a la zona blava de la carretera nacional i pujar per l'esquerra de les barreres de contenció. Seguir la tertera dins del bosc fins a la paret.

1.2.2. Sector Juberri 14 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.440947, 1.494993

1.2.3. La Margineda 2 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.484359, 1.487101

1.2.4. Riu d'Enclar 21 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.495462, 1.492460

summary

Ideal for very hot days. You can get wet in the river.

approach

https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-escalada/sector-riu-denclar-81896152

1.2.5. Solà d’Enclar 76 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.501584, 1.503035

description

http://visitandorra.com/fr/nature/zone-d-escalade-sola-d-enclar/

1.2.6. Pilar Mingo 1 route in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.503392, 1.506475

approach

S'hi pot accedir de 2 maneres:

1.Aparcar al cementiri de Santa Coloma i seguir el camí que porta a les vies d'escalada del Solà d'Enclar. Continuar fins passar el sector Santa Coloma fins arribar a una zona on el camí és força vertical i trencadís. Girar a esquerra sortint del camí just abans de trobar una cadena fixada a la roca. Seguir el camí no gaire marcat que puja per la vall. *Caminar 50 metres. Hi han algunes marques vermelles que indiquen el camí. La paret del pilar Mingo és a la dreta. La primera reunió és veu des del camí de pujada. La via amb les seves variants són una mica més a baix.

2.Caminar fins al final del camí del Rec del Solà. Seguir caminant pel camí que porta a les vies d'escalada del Solà d'Enclar. Un cop passada una cadena fixada a una gran roca (aquesta cadena és l'última) girar a la dreta i pujar pel camí trencadís. Llavors seguir les mateixes indicacions que les de l'altra aproximació a partit de *.

1.2.7. Piràmide 39 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.505363, 1.504916

approach

https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-escalada/sector-piramide-abaix-83844599

1.2.8. Llastra de l’Obac 3 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.502450, 1.522706

1.2.9. Sant Antoni de la Grella 22 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.528052, 1.520605

1.2.10. Roc dels Palinquerons 0 routes in Sector

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description

Quatre o cinc vies per a nens

1.2.11. Reno 3 routes in Sector

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Summary:
Sport climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.560447, 1.504753

1.2.12. Roc de la Coma 13 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.562192, 1.493250

description

Sector amb vies majoritariament de placa i amb moltes assegurances.

approach

https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-escalada/sector-roc-de-la-coma-a-erts-82500618

1.2.13. Erts - La Cooperativa 0 routes in Sector

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1.2.14. La Pastisseria 17 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

1.2.15. Encodina 13 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.624643, 1.523481

description

La zona d’escalada del sector d’Encodina es troba a uns 2,5 km abans de l’estació d’Ordino Arcalís, des d’Andorra la Vella.

Compta amb 13 vies d’escalada i la seva dificultat és de 4+ a 6c+ (mitjana-alta). És una zona d’escalada d’alta muntanya (1.850 metres d’altitud), de roca de calcoesquist amb una mica de liquen. Està orientada al nord-oest i el tipus d’escalada és de placa i dues grans fissures. A causa de la seva exposició i alçada, es recomana fer-hi escalada en època primaveral i estival.

Hi un cartell al peu de cada via amb el seu grau.

approach

https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-escalada/sector-encodina-82310218

1.2.16. Creusans 4 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.633440, 1.477276

1.2.17. Arcalís 1 route in Crag

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Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.623661, 1.485928

1.2.18. Roc de la Guilla 33 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.514297, 1.559030

approach

https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-escalada/sector-roc-de-la-guilla-83822557

1.2.19. Agulles d’Engolasters 17 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.515911, 1.573308

summary

Ambient de muntanya amb magnífica vista de la vall d'Andorra.

description

Totes les vies estan reequipades amb parabolt M10 per la FAM, l'agost de 1998.

approach

https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-escalada/sector-agulles-dengolasters-80385879

1.2.20. Fissuròmetre 9 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.517828, 1.578849

1.2.21. Boulder de Coll Jovell 41 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.510377, 1.569162

1.2.22. El Carcamanyà 9 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.523527, 1.563244

1.2.23. Prohibit 23 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.527931, 1.564317

approach

https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-escalada/sector-prohibit-85063712

1.2.24. l'Oral 13 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.527991, 1.567211

1.2.25. Vall de les Agols 2 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.502541, 1.602785

1.2.26. Meritxell 4 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

1.2.27. Riu Urina 12 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.559263, 1.583917

summary

Es troba a 1.150 metres d’altura amb orientació sud-est. Les vies estan equipades amb químics.

access issues

Warning: next to the waterfall it is easy for stones and rocks to fall!

approach

https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-escalada/sector-cascada-del-riu-urina-82314388

1.2.28. Mur Cascada de Les Moles 4 routes in Artificial

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.572227, 1.615354

summary

Canillo, 30 November 2020.- The Comú de Canillo has reopened to the public the climbing wall of the Cascada de Moles, after a repair that has lasted approximately two months.

description

The climbing wall of The Cascada de Moles is open to all audiences every day of the week except when the weather conditions do not allow it.

history

The facility was built in 1992

1.2.29. Roc dels Coms 18 routes in Sector

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.622356, 1.637263

description

Sector d'alta muntanya

approach

30 minuts fins al refugi dels Coms de Jan i 30 minuts més fins a peu de vies

1.2.30. Juclar 15 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.607602, 1.722635

1.2.31. Pic de Ríbuls 4 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.509891, 1.674486

1.2.32. Pic de l'Esquella 7 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.519411, 1.744037

1.2.33. Clots Fondos 4 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.554795, 1.622956

summary

Zona encara en desenvolupament. Vies equipades amb parabolts. Totes amb reunió de cadena + anella.

description

-Zona molt tranquil•la i salvatge -Bon peu de via -Ideal per al mesos d'estiu -Orientació N-NE -Alt. 2.250 mts

approach

Des d'on s'acaba la carretera del Forn de Canillo (barrera) pujar per la pista forestal i després per la pista d'esquí Gaig, entre les pilones 10 i 11 girar a l'esquerra, la zona es veu clarament, és un sortint rocós. També s'hi pot accedir per un corriol que surt del "Fornatura" i va pujant paral•lel a la Roca del Forn, marcat amb fites.

1.3. Austria 27,447 routes in Region

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2 4 1 3
1 West 2 Mitte-Nord 3 Mitte-Süd 4 Ost
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.625839, 13.314252

summary

Endless crags in the Eastern alps and the foothills of the alps offer climbing for everyone in every season.

description

Crags and areas are listed and managed according to the Alpine Club classification of the Eastern Alps (see also: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpine_Club_classification_of_the_Eastern_Alps).

A map of areas can also be found here: http://www.bergalbum.de/uebersichtskarte_ostalpen.htm

1.3.1. West 11,642 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.172015, 11.139309

summary

Western Austria represents the 2 provinces Tyrol and Vorarlberg, a very mountainous region with endless climbing possibilities and excellent infrastructure.

description

A substantial part of the Eastern Alps is located in Vorarlberg and Tyrol. From a climbers perspective it is probably hard to find an area with more variety and options on such a small area. World class bouldering areas can be found next to world class sport climbing areas, multi-pitch climbs line alpine peaks and cliffs and there is everything, from family friendly and easy climbing to lines at the top of the grade range.

With Innsbruck as its biggest town and climbing mecca Western Austria is a must visit for every climber.

Topos and climbing information for some areas in Tyrol can also be found here: at http://www.climbers-paradise.com

1.3.2. Mitte-Nord 4,377 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.034609, 13.707346

1.3.3. Mitte-Süd 2,517 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.832213, 13.782726

1.3.4. Ost 8,911 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.806125, 15.538761

description

A lot of climbing is happening in and around Vienna. Within a 2 hours radius you will find mostly limestone crags (some gneiss also can be found in the danube region of Wachau) offering everything from slabs to overhangs, short to long climbs, remote to busy crags, single to multi pitch and so on...

Main crags are Peilstein, Hohe Wand, Höllental and many many more...

Information Sources / Topo Guides:

If the weather is bad Vienna offers a lot of indoor climbing possibilities (just google for climbing gym vienna...) - currently around 10 major climbing gyms exist in and around the city.

1.4. Belarus 0 routes in Region

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4 9 1
1 Minsk 4 RCTKUM 9 Plato

1.4.1. Minsk 0 routes in Crag

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1.4.2. Скалодром "Вершина" 0 routes in Gym

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description

https://vk.com/skalodrom_vershina

1.4.3. Скалодром 0 routes in Gym

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description

https://vk.com/scwclab

1.4.4. RCTKUM 0 routes in Gym

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summary

There are not too expensive accommodation. Webpage (Russian) it is easy to translate by any online tool http://rctkum.by/fullservice/Turbaza It can help you to rent a room for visiting Minsk.

description

This is the first indoor gym in Minsk. For a long time it was the only one place where national climbing championship took place. But now it is forgotten. By the way, for now it is the cheapest gym in Minsk. It has all facilities for indoor climbing. The heigh of walls is 5 meters. There are walls with different angles (from vertical to roofs). Unfortunately gym has lost attractiveness for most of local climbers. But for thuse who need a place for systematicaly treaning - it is still the one of the best variants.

There are some routes on Climbzilla https://web.climbzilla.tk/halls/178/routes https://web.climbzilla.tk/halls/1243/routes

approach

It is easy from National airport Minsk via taksi (about 25 Euros). The address is Minsk, Lukyanovich str., 18.

1.4.5. Skalodrom Trapeciya 0 routes in Gym

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description

https://www.facebook.com/trapezia.minsk/

https://vk.com/trapeziarock

1.4.6. Vitebsk Climbing 0 routes in Gym

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description

https://vk.com/club13158939

1.4.7. Byk 0 routes in Gym

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description

https://vk.com/club12164582

1.4.8. Спортзал школы 23 0 routes in Gym

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1.4.9. Plato 0 routes in Gym

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description

300 square meters of bouldering wall, MoonBoard,comfortable warm-up area with all needed equipment, locker rooms with showers, comfortable resting area. Dog-friendly

https://plato.by/

approach

Адрес:

Минск, ул. Куйбышева 22 Вход через 6 корпус

1.5. Belgium 6,062 routes in Region

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5 4 2 1 3
1 Wallonie picarde & Namur 2 Liège 3 Luxembourg 4 Brabant & Brussel 5 Vlaanderen
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.516063, 4.449482

access issues

Current closures/huidige sluitingen.

1.5.1. Wallonie picarde & Namur 3,032 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.298406, 4.119434

1.5.2. Liège 2,324 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.485413, 5.662153

history

La petite... grande histoire de l'escalade Liegoise

1.5.3. Luxembourg 607 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.979531, 5.477518

1.5.4. Brabant & Brussel 51 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.789950, 4.540119

1.5.5. Vlaanderen 48 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 51.098980, 4.198856

1.6. Bosnia and Herzegovina 1,054 routes in Region

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1 2 3 4
1 Krajina 2 Central Bosnia 3 Sarajevo & Eastern Bosnia 4 Herzegovina
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.846063, 17.677008

description

Climbing is slowly recovering in this country. Halted for about a decade by the war, a new generation of climbers has been opening crags and bolting routes.

This resulted in the publication of the magnificent guidebook which is not only a great guide to all crags in the country, but also a wonderful tourist guide.

1.6.1. Krajina 392 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.539039, 16.794331

1.6.2. Central Bosnia 82 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.155416, 17.993611

1.6.3. Sarajevo & Eastern Bosnia 243 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.758989, 18.718511

1.6.4. Herzegovina 337 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.520136, 17.811630

1.7. Bulgaria 5,113 routes in Region

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24 16 5 12 25 11 8 10 4 3 20 6 17 9 18 13 27 1 26 7 19 2 14 23 22 21 15
1 Sofia 2 Vitosha 3 Vratsa 4 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave 5 Kamen bryag 6 Veliko Tarnovo 7 Sliven 8 Varna 9 Dryanovski manastir 10 Lovech 11 Krushuna 12 Pleven 13 Teteven 14 Koprivshtitsa 15 Smolyan 16 Belogradtschik 17 Bozhenitsa 18 Gabrovo - Sevlievo 19 Karlovo 20 Lakatnik 21 Pirin 22 Plovdiv 23 Rila 24 Ruse 25 Shumen 26 Sredna Stara planina 27 Tran
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.721696, 25.507513

description

Bulgaria is a country in South East Europe, with an area of 111,000 sq km, which offers climbing areas of all types:

  • bouldering,
  • sport climbing
  • traditional (up to 200 meter routes)
  • ice climbing (only in winter)
  • DWS.

Map of climbing areas (in Bulgarian) : http://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?smap=1 (also some topos)

Some area descriptions: http://climbing-in-bulgaria.blogspot.de/

1.7.1. Sofia 157 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.852085, 23.164837

description

The capital and largest city of Bulgaria. At least five indoor climbing spots within the city as well as rock climbing/ boulder spots at the outskirts of the city towards Vitosha Mountain.

where to stay

Plenty of hotels, hostels, as well as coach-surfing opportunities.

1.7.2. Vitosha 205 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.572227, 23.242678

1.7.3. Vratsa 494 routes in Area

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Summary:
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.176814, 23.566196

description

Huge bolted multi-pitches and single pitch sport climbing in caves and on slabs.

access issues

http://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?lang=en

where to stay

Camp at the grassy areas on the right and left as you drive up through the gorge. Water is available at a spring on the left camp area.

1.7.4. Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave 96 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.175845, 24.073765

summary

Big cave with two entrances, that has two big holes in it known as "God's eyes".

description

Big cave with many routes, bolting is safe but sparse, the cave goes up to 40m and there are a few climbs that go through the eyes. There is climbing for everyone from 4s to 9s. The cave is a fun playground, but could be intimidating if you are a beginner.

If you are coming here bring knee pads for the harder routes.

The cave seeps so wait a few days if you are to climb here after it has rained.

access issues

To ensure the safety of everyone, when climbing during the weekends, climbers are urged to avoid the sectors that are close to the path, namely: Pop folk (East entrance - left side), Nepobedim (Middle part - right side), Kak shte gi stignem (Middle part - left side) , and El Choro (West entrance - left side). Instead use the sectors: Hip Hop (East entrance - right side), Black Metal (Entrance part - right side), North (Entrance part - right side) - without the section with "Pchelichkata Maya", and Podaruk(outside the cave).

approach

One of the easiest approaches ever, put the GPS coordinates and park at the east entrance of the crag.

(43.17479, 24.07461)

https://youtu.be/W_L5SaYFGzQ

where to stay

Camping at the entrance to the cave on the rolling green hills. There are a couple of shepards who move their animals through the area. They are nice and it is normal to offer them a gift or some Rakija (alcoholic spirits) and they will often give you some of their homemade cheese or milk. There is also a nearby alpine hut or you can stay in a guest house in Karlukovo.

Make sure to bring water and food with you at the crag. There are no toilets so clean up after yourselves.

ethic

Keep a low profile. Don't camp in the cave. Don't light fires in the cave, avoid climbing in the cave on weekends. No climbing between 6pm and 7am so you do not disturb the birds and local wild life. Do not bolt or draw on the rocks.

1.7.5. Kamen bryag 101 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.474541, 28.570969

description

Deep Water Solo spot at the Black Sea, North East side of Bulgaria. Climbing season is usually from June to September, depending on temperatures. Typical water temperatures in summer are 25 °C in August. Warning! There have been several fatal accidents in the region, due to the nature of DWS as well as the characteristic of many problems.

access issues

Intercity buses or by car. Approximate travel time from major cities by car: Sofia - 7 hours, Veliko Tarnovo - 4 hours, Varna - 1 hour.

where to stay

Small hotels, camping sites. Many spend the night in the open, tenting freely in the many open spaces (not permitted, but still vastly common).

1.7.6. Veliko Tarnovo 228 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.086720, 25.616519

1.7.7. Sliven 140 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.692236, 26.321563

1.7.8. Varna 67 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.262530, 27.848851

1.7.9. Dryanovski manastir 89 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 42.948932, 25.434312

description

https://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=regioninfo&idRegion=142&lang=en

1.7.10. Lovech 116 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.131290, 24.714756

1.7.11. Krushuna 12 routes in Sector

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.242390, 25.034478

1.7.12. Pleven 52 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.396964, 24.624963

1.7.13. Teteven 46 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.894659, 24.279189

1.7.14. Koprivshtitsa 79 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.565743, 24.347947

summary

Beautiful crag with sharp rock, that doesn't get much traffic. This is where bouldering in Bulgaria started. Prepare to get your hands shreded.

description

A very whimsical crag that has much potential for first ascents, the boulders are situated in a forest. The perfect time to climb is either winter or autumn. The weather during the summer is too hot and too unpredictable in spring. Due to the nature of the rock a person can only climb here for a day. There are stray dogs and cats so make sure to bring food for them.

access issues

The crag is accessible to everyone all year round.

approach

It might be a bit difficult to find the boulders.

(42.566420, 24.347580)

https://youtu.be/gtK2oBPfNdg

where to stay

There are many options where to stay. Next to the boulder field there are picnic benches, established fire pits and even a little shelter. You can camp in the area or alternatively you can find a room to rent in Strelcha or Koprivshtitsa. We recommend checking out the hot mineral springs in the Strelcha area.

ethic

Steel brushes are allowed to clean up the boulders from the vegetation, can also use finer brushes to brush off the holds. Make sure to clean chalk marks after yourselves and pick up your rubbish. Chiseling the boulders, artificially making holds, digging landings or putting any glue ons or other equipment that can be used for high ball bouldering is not allowed.

history

This location was first discovered in the 1980s by Ivan Maslarov and the first 15 boulder routes were developed. In 1998 the official development of the crag has begun.

1.7.15. Smolyan 24 routes in Area

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.616647, 24.602172

1.7.16. Belogradtschik 1,107 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.575268, 22.708278

1.7.17. Bozhenitsa 171 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.992524, 23.828925

1.7.18. Gabrovo - Sevlievo 36 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 42.946170, 25.251034

1.7.19. Karlovo 15 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.658762, 24.807006

1.7.20. Lakatnik 477 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.093652, 23.387375

1.7.21. Pirin 69 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 41.733293, 23.423793

1.7.22. Plovdiv 147 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 42.038074, 24.754487

1.7.23. Rila 830 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.167980, 23.561689

1.7.24. Ruse 185 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.668712, 25.965837

1.7.25. Shumen 27 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.262237, 26.949068

1.7.26. Sredna Stara planina 73 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.742624, 24.761287

1.7.27. Tran 70 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.865013, 22.682242

1.8. Croatia 4,999 routes in Region

List view
4 1 2 3
1 Istra 2 Kvarnerski zaljev i Lika 3 Dalmacija 4 Sjeverna Hrvatska
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.445535, 16.431620

description

Guidebooks:

  1. Croatia 2019 - ČUJIČ, Boris, 2019: Croatia: Climbing Guide. 8th edition, Astroida, p. 624.

  2. Adriatic Coast 2017 - Adriatic Coast: Italia - Slovenija - Croatia. Sidarta, 400 p. ISBN 9789616027816

1.8.1. Istra 1,241 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.126918, 13.840985

description

Guidebooks:

Croatia 2019 - ČUJIČ, Boris, 2019: Croatia: Climbing Guide. 8th edition, Astroida, p. 624.

Adriatic Coast 2017 - Adriatic Coast: Italia - Slovenija - Croatia. Sidarta, 400 p. ISBN 9789616027816

1.8.2. Kvarnerski zaljev i Lika 922 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.978359, 15.055583

1.8.3. Dalmacija 2,432 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.427937, 16.560594

summary

Dalmatia is a narrow stripe of Croatia located at the east shore of the Adriatic Sea, stretching from the island of Rab in the north to the Bay of Kotor in the south with Split as major city.

description

All of Dalmatia offers great climbing and also deep water soloing along the coast and on the islands. Split is a major hub for climbing but anywhere in Dalmatia the next climbing spot is not far.

1.8.4. Sjeverna Hrvatska 404 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.712304, 16.299323

1.9. Czechia 81,860 routes in Region

List view
4 5 3 1 9 6 7 8 2
1 Střední Čechy 2 Jižní Čechy 3 Západní Čechy a Krušnohoří 4 Severní Čechy 5 Východní Čechy 6 Vysočina 7 Jižní Morava 8 Moravské pískovce 9 Severní Morava a Slezsko
Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.738633, 15.330940

summary

Czech republic - Cinematic Video 4K

description

Guides, routes and topos:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Database of routes, locations and map (czech).

  2. Skalní oblasti ČR: Route database and information about current moisture conditions and restrictions (czech).

  3. Lezec.cz - Czechclimbing.com: Climbing guides with topos, ascents (czech).

  4. Javaanes.cz- Crags in Moravia, climbing guides, topos (czech, ).

  5. Euroclimbing.com: Topos and some climbing guides (czech).

  6. Goat.cz: Topos and some climbing guides (mostly) in Moravia and Silesia (czech).

Information about climbing:

  1. Lezec.cz: Information about climbing in Czech Republic (czech).

  2. Czechclimbing.com: Information about climbing in Czech Republic ().

  3. Euroclimbing.com: Information about climbing, equipement and new routes (czech).

  4. Horydoly.cz: Information about climbing and other outdoor activities (czech, , )

  5. Horyinfo.cz: Information about climbing, equipement and new routes (czech, , , ).

Maps:

  1. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, Crags and climbing areas map, Climbing restrictions map.

  2. Horydoly.cz: Crags, huts, indoor climbing, tourist information map.

  3. Javaanes.cz: Crags and boulder fields map (Moravia and Silesia mostly).

  4. Horezdrar.cz: Crags and climbing areas map.

  5. Geoscience map - Czech Geological Survey: Geological informations and maps.

access issues

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

ethic

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

1.9.1. Střední Čechy 5,552 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.965443, 14.543268

description

Central Bohemia Region - Wikipedia

1.9.2. Jižní Čechy 2,916 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.102956, 14.367225

description

South Bohemian Region - Wikipedia

1.9.3. Západní Čechy a Krušnohoří 10,587 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.951655, 13.120064

1.9.4. Severní Čechy 41,649 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.618848, 14.636003

1.9.5. Východní Čechy 13,758 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.136175, 16.034991

1.9.6. Vysočina 1,980 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.467664, 15.751233

summary

The Vysočina region is a hilly area in the middle of Czechia. These hills are known as Bohemian Moravian Highlands

1.9.7. Jižní Morava 2,423 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.111675, 16.439276

description

South Moravian Region

Guidebook - 2019 - SKÝPALA, Vladimír a WOLF, Vladimír a kol. Moravské skály III. Jižní Morava. 2019. 272 s. (czech)

1.9.8. Moravské pískovce 984 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.205223, 17.633151

description

Guidebook - 2018 - SKÝPALA, Vladimír a WOLF, Vladimír a kol. Moravské skály I. Východní Morava. 2018. 190 s. (czech)

1.9.9. Severní Morava a Slezsko 2,011 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.839317, 17.625886

description

Moravian-Silesian Region - Wikipedia

Guidebook - 2018 - SKÝPALA, Vladimír a WOLF, Vladimír a kol. Moravské skály II. Severní Morava a Slezsko. 2018. 216 s. (czech)

1.10. Denmark 499 routes in Region

List view
1 3 4 2
1 Jyllan 2 Fyn 3 Sjælland 4 Bornholm
Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.496549, 7.524251

1.10.1. Jyllan 10 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 56.564281, 9.414226

1.10.2. Fyn 1 route in Region

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 55.235214, 10.436030

1.10.3. Sjælland 16 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 55.284413, 11.940097

1.10.4. Bornholm 472 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.249220, 14.386583

description

"Bornholm on the Rocks", 2nd edition 2020, Karsten Kurz, Geoquest, ISBN 978-3-9819515-6-1

1.10.5. Bunker 0 routes in Boulder

List view

description

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_I8ZmNXysg

1.11. Estonia 360 routes in Region

List view
14 20 16 10 8 17 7 27 18 22 19 5 3 13 25 9 11 23 21 6 4 2 1 31 28 30 26 36 33 32 29 34 12 35 15 38 37 24 39 43 41 42 40
1 Tallinn 2 Ellandvahe kivi 3 Kärga kivi 4 Jaanukse kivi 5 Mardimiku kivi 6 Augu Suurkivi 7 Jaani-Tooma Suurkivi 8 Majakamäe kivi 9 Ehalkivi 10 Matsikivi 11 Tagaküla Suurkivi 12 Aruküla hiidrahn 13 Tammispea 14 Joomakivi 15 Linda-Neitsi 16 Tiirukivi 17 Malusi 18 Mustoja 19 Kaarnakivi 20 Sorrukivi 21 Põdraniidu kivi 22 Majakivi 23 Tammneeme Tiirukivi 24 Pahkla Suurkivi 25 Kelvingi 26 Õpiringi Suurkivi 27 Eerikukivi 28 Astangu käigud 29 Raudalu 30 Rahumäe 31 Naage 32 Neosti kivikülv 33 Lohusalu 34 Leetse Saunakivi 35 Pallaste 36 Aidakivi 37 Põõsaspea 38 Põllküla 39 Truumani kivid 40 Vahase saare hiidrahnud 41 Jaagu-Mihkli hiiekivi 42 Väkra Hiiekivi 43 Põrgukivi
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.707130, 24.878931

summary

some boulders: http://climbestonia.pbworks.com/

description

Map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1apic2YjL3P_ZEoBQoo9MyMMFuvw&ll=59.237347003547335%2C25.38161350000001&z=9

1.11.1. Tallinn 2 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.447762, 24.937428

1.11.2. Ellandvahe kivi 26 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.460222, 25.137569

1.11.3. Kärga kivi 13 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.568680, 25.764356

1.11.4. Jaanukse kivi 8 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.474769, 25.366930

1.11.5. Mardimiku kivi 15 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.576085, 25.727689

1.11.6. Augu Suurkivi 13 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.502445, 25.302018

1.11.7. Jaani-Tooma Suurkivi 10 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.600518, 25.771767

1.11.8. Majakamäe kivi 9 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.605031, 25.922702

1.11.9. Ehalkivi 8 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.549738, 26.587846

1.11.10. Matsikivi 8 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.608849, 25.904787

1.11.11. Tagaküla Suurkivi 8 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.541373, 26.592594

1.11.12. Aruküla hiidrahn 8 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.361129, 25.080437

1.11.13. Tammispea 7 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.560291, 25.817060

1.11.14. Joomakivi 6 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.652377, 25.735905

1.11.15. Linda-Neitsi 5 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.356484, 26.076707

1.11.16. Tiirukivi 5 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.633603, 25.759499

1.11.17. Malusi 5 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.601813, 25.322993

1.11.18. Mustoja 4 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.584840, 26.198633

1.11.19. Kaarnakivi 3 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.580422, 26.275919

1.11.20. Sorrukivi 3 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.642881, 25.747808

1.11.21. Põdraniidu kivi 3 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.516571, 25.480828

1.11.22. Majakivi 2 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.583094, 25.575856

1.11.23. Tammneeme Tiirukivi 17 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.537941, 24.896098

1.11.24. Pahkla Suurkivi 18 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.211996, 24.876085

1.11.25. Kelvingi 11 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.553116, 24.827437

1.11.26. Õpiringi Suurkivi 9 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.393513, 24.632742

1.11.27. Eerikukivi 9 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.588012, 24.761203

1.11.28. Astangu käigud 11 routes in Cliff

List view
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 59.400174, 24.627722

1.11.29. Raudalu 5 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.370883, 24.755418

1.11.30. Rahumäe 9 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.393548, 24.716595

1.11.31. Naage 26 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.404990, 24.340481

1.11.32. Neosti kivikülv 10 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.371285, 24.084263

1.11.33. Lohusalu 11 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.387263, 24.205325

1.11.34. Leetse Saunakivi 6 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.369000, 24.134399

1.11.35. Pallaste 4 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.359041, 24.072460

1.11.36. Aidakivi 6 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.390151, 24.240830

1.11.37. Põõsaspea 6 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.223866, 23.514496

1.11.38. Põllküla 4 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 59.336860, 24.155076

1.11.39. Truumani kivid 6 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.987874, 23.613298

1.11.40. Vahase saare hiidrahnud 9 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.143090, 22.475211

1.11.41. Jaagu-Mihkli hiiekivi 8 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.622982, 23.666054

1.11.42. Väkra Hiiekivi 2 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.455170, 22.838360

1.11.43. Põrgukivi 2 routes in Unknown

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 58.903601, 22.188647

1.12. Finland 5,648 routes in Region

List view
12 18 14 2 9 4 17 16 15 10 5 8 13 3 6 11 1
1 Åland 2 Jyväskylä 3 Turku 4 Tampere - Nokia 5 Olhava 6 Salo 8 Lammi 9 Punkaharju 10 Karkaus 11 Uusimaa 12 Lapland 13 Kustavi 14 Vaasa 15 Devil's cave 16 Haukkavuori 17 Sarajärvi 18 Oulu
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 64.876180, 25.419635

summary

Most of Finnish crags are found in Southern Finland below Jyväskylä. North of Jyväskylä has some - Lapland has only few.

description

Outdoor climbing season in Finland is about May-Sept for most people. In Southern Finland you can maybe rock climb year-round if you don't mind the conditions.

Some recommendations: Helsinki area, Tampere area, Kustavi.

1.12.1. Åland 492 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 60.226394, 20.105735

description

Åland is one of the most popular bouldering destinations of Finland. Excellent boulders in stunning landscape and lots of potential for further development.

approach

Ferrys from Stockholm, Helsinki or Tallin. Flights to Mariehamn. Most bouldering sites are in the north of Åland around Geta.

where to stay

There are various campsites on the island, but probably the best is to rent a timber hut. To stay in walking distance to the boulders take one in Soltuna.

1.12.2. Jyväskylä 24 routes in Area

List view
Summary:
Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 62.264458, 25.763262

1.12.3. Turku 12 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 60.463962, 22.236516

1.12.4. Tampere - Nokia 605 routes in Area

List view
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 61.523149, 23.726054

1.12.5. Olhava 74 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 61.185957, 26.839213

summary

Best trad crag in Finland? One of the highest cliffs at least. Very beautiful setting with forest, lake and good climbing.

approach

Closest parking: Saarijärvi parking lot, address: Kuismantie 990, Kouvola. One hour walk on a gravel road, much less with a bike. (61.196738, 26.880646)

where to stay

Camping just next to crag. Drinking water 200m away from well.

ethic

Locate in national park so respect the nature.

1.12.6. Salo 38 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 60.414226, 22.987787

1.12.7. Askola 1 route in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Rock climbing

1.12.8. Lammi 22 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 61.052646, 25.006131

summary

Both technical and pumpy sport mid grade sport climbing on good quality rock. Unfortunately close to the road, and can be rather noisy.

description

Online topo: https://27crags.com/crags/lammi/topos

1.12.9. Punkaharju 16 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 61.634840, 29.132411

summary

A steep DWS venue but you'll be rewarded with your private sauna.

description

Some of the most difficult DWS routes in Finland. Long approach but worth it. A barge with a sauna was installed in 2020 and will hopefully still be there when you visit (bring your own wood!).

approach

Long and potentially difficult. Follow the blue path marked on trees. It's best to approach from the West or by boat. Take care!

1.12.10. Karkaus 16 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 61.384769, 27.292939

1.12.11. Uusimaa 1,478 routes in Area

List view
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 60.317961, 24.993093

1.12.12. Lapland 58 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 67.842765, 25.541433

summary

In Finnish Lapland there is not many high cliffs. Some 20-30 rope climbing crags, few big bouldering areas and some smaller bouldering areas. Korouoma is the place for Finnish ice climbing.

description

Climbing seasons for bouldering, sport and trad is May/June-Oct in Lapland. Lots of mosquitoes mid June to September-ish - long clothes and mosquito hat are a must!

1.12.13. Kustavi 4 routes in Area

List view
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 60.557457, 21.383913

summary

Best trad climbs in Finland. Lots of routes too, often 8-15m high.

description

Routes and topo https://www.jammi.net/kalliot

where to stay

Paid camping and sauna at Itätalon ranta: Pyöskerintie 186, 23360 Kustavi. https://fi-fi.facebook.com/itatalonranta/

Otheriwise there is only a little place for camping in Kustavi.

1.12.14. Vaasa 2,155 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 63.169186, 22.168702

1.12.15. Devil's cave 3 routes in Boulder

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 61.444286, 29.226108

1.12.16. Haukkavuori 51 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 61.485702, 29.218304

1.12.17. Sarajärvi 3 routes in Field

List view
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 61.514897, 29.200050

1.12.18. Oulu 596 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 65.046060, 26.101081

1.13. France 91,090 routes in Region

List view
7 9 6 8 3 4 12 2 1 10 13 11 5
1 Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 2 Bourgogne-Franche-Comté 3 Bretagne / Breizh 4 Centre-Val de Loire 5 Corse 6 Grand-Est 7 Hauts-de-France 8 Île-de-France 9 Normandie 10 Nouvelle-Aquitaine 11 Occitanie 12 Pays-de-la-Loire 13 Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.205053, 1.485338

summary

Croissants, seas of sandstone boulders and scenic limestone sport crags.

description

France is a highly sought-after destination for climbing, and for good reasons. From classic sport crags to scenic multi-pitch adventures just above the water or 4,000m up an alpine peak, there’s a something for everyone here, all year round. And then, there’s the unforgettable food!

As a rule of thumb, the quality of climbing gets better and better as you go South, with some notable exceptions.

For bouldering (‘bloc’). About an hour away from Paris, Fontainebleau is a world-class bouldering area with more than 30,000 sandstone boulder problems. To the West, in the Bretagne region, you’ll find granite boulders right by the beach, such as in Pen-Hir and Kerlouan. In the South, check out Targassone, Annot, Ailefroide and many more.

For sport climbing (’escalade sportive’), there’s no shortage of world-class crags. Start with the classic areas such as Le Saussois, Les Calanques, Le Verdon, Buoux, Volx, Chateauvert, Orpierre, Mouries… and then head to the more ‘futuristic’ falaises such as Ceuse, Les Gorges du Tarn, Saint-Léger du Ventoux, Orgon, Les Gorges du Loup... the list goes on.

For trad climbing (‘escalade en terrain d’aventure’), head to Annot, le Vercors, but also Les Gorges du Verdon or even Ceuse.

Deep water soloing is also worth a mention with Les Calanques, La Ciotat, Les Gorges du Tarn, Les Gorges du Verdon and La Piade being hot spots in the summer months. Watch for tourists when jumping off!

Last but not least, climbing is also well developed in French islands such as Corsica, la Guadeloupe (Caribbeans) and l’Ile de la Reunion (Indian Ocean).

Bonne grimpe!

===

A few useful words:

  • Hi! | Salut!
  • Thank you | Merci
  • Please | S'il vous plait
  • Can you help me? | Pouvez vous m'aider?
  • One beer please! | Une bière s'il vous plait !
  • Climbing | Escalade
  • To belay | Assurer
  • I'm looking for a belayer | Est-ce que quelqu'un peut m'assurer?
  • Where is the climbing area? | Où se trouve le secteur d'escalade?

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

1.13.1. Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 13,820 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.509479, 4.553165

1.13.2. Bourgogne-Franche-Comté 3,692 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.228765, 4.803323

1.13.3. Bretagne / Breizh 1,176 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.225061, -3.128241

1.13.4. Centre-Val de Loire 162 routes in Area

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.647856, 1.274466

1.13.5. Corse 2,499 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.213950, 9.013148

description

Topo : Falaises de Corse, Maurin et Souchard, 2018. 406 pages. 35€

http://escalade.corse.topo.free.fr

1.13.6. Grand-Est 4,378 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.787361, 5.812274

1.13.7. Hauts-de-France 492 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.058263, 2.564923

1.13.8. Île-de-France 29,587 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.676822, 2.535735

1.13.9. Normandie 805 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.119654, -0.239440

1.13.10. Nouvelle-Aquitaine 1,318 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.960847, -0.689006

1.13.11. Occitanie 10,034 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.675368, 2.192982

1.13.12. Pays-de-la-Loire 637 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.313812, -1.525966

1.13.13. Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur 22,490 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.044426, 5.969330

1.13.14. Overseas France (links) 0 routes in Region

List view

description

'Guadeloupe'[11748451], 'Guyane'[11738923], 'Martinique'[11748499], 'Mayotte'[754647468], 'Nouvelle-Calédonie'[323241615], 'La Réunion'[754647516]

1.14. Germany 96,708 routes in Region

List view
1 3 4 40 39 42 2 41 43 30 46 5 32 9 44 8 7 6 45 11 33 10 12 38 37 29 34 13 36 28 14 15 35 27 17 16 26 31 18 24 20 25 19 22 23 21
1 Norddeutschland 2 Mitteldeutschland 3 Berlin 4 Brandenburg 5 Oberlausitz 6 Zittauer Gebirge 7 Sächsische Schweiz 8 Mittelsachsen 9 Dresden und Umgebung 10 Erzgebirge 11 Vogtland 12 Thüringisch-Fränkisches Schiefergebirge 13 Fichtelgebirge 14 Obermainisches u. Oberpfälzisches Hügelland 15 Oberpfälzer Wald 16 Keuper-Lias + Gäuplatten 17 Frankenjura 18 Niederbayern / Bayerischer Wald 19 Oberbayern 20 Bayerisch Schwaben 21 Allgäu 22 Hegau 23 Linzgau - Oberschwaben 24 Schwäbische Alb 25 Schwarzwald 26 Westpfalz 27 Saar-Nahe-Bergland 28 Hunsrück 29 Eifel 30 Niederrheinische Bucht & Ruhrgebiet 31 Rhein-Main 32 Süderbergland 33 Westerwald 34 Taunus 35 Odenwald 36 Spessart 37 Vogelsberg 38 Rhön 39 Teutoburger Wald + Eggegebirge 40 Weser-Leine-Bergland 41 Großraum Göttingen 42 Harz + Harzvorland 43 Eichsfeld (Thüringen) 44 Thüringer Becken 45 Thüringer Wald 46 Nordhessen
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.375306, 10.299162

summary

Beautiful landscapes, safe travelling and a lot of culture to enjoy.

description

Germany is a country in west-central Europe, that stretches from the Alps, across the North European Plain to the North Sea and the Baltic Sea.

Elevation ranges from the mountains of the Alps (highest point: the Zugspitze at 2,962 metres (9,718 ft)) in the south to the shores of the North Sea (Nordsee) in the northwest and the Baltic Sea (Ostsee) in the northeast. Between lie the forested uplands of central Germany and the low-lying lands of northern Germany (lowest point: Neuendorf-Sachsenbande at 3.54 metres (11.6 ft) below sea level), traversed by some of Europe's major rivers such as the Rhine, Danube and Elbe.

Other databases:

1.14.1. Norddeutschland 238 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.651149, 10.091394

1.14.2. Mitteldeutschland 2,586 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.568057, 12.349891

description

Not blessed with too much natural rock formations, Germany's Central East still offers some hidden gems like stunning aretes in shutdown quarries or deep-water-soloing over crystal-clear water. Check out the guidebook (in German) "Rotgelbes Felsenland" by Gerald Krug (www.geoquest-verlag.de)

1.14.3. Berlin 1,280 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.510256, 13.409399

summary

"Dickes B - Kletterführer Berlin-Brandenburg", 2. Auflage 2013, Gerald Krug, Geoquest Verlag Halle, ISBN 978-3-00-016977-9

description

Despite the complete absence of natural rock formations, Berlin still offers some remedies for the vertically-addicted: artificial climbing walls, gyms, chiselled bunkers and semi-legal buildering. With more than 100 places to climb, you should be able to get pumped.

A nice overview of all locations can be found at http://www.klettern-in-berlin.de (in German).

An excellent guidebook is "Dickes B": http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/?q=node/77

1.14.4. Brandenburg 642 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.468810, 13.421543

summary

"Dickes B - Kletterführer Berlin-Brandenburg", 2. Auflage 2013, Gerald Krug, Geoquest Verlag Halle, ISBN 978-3-00-016977-9

1.14.5. Oberlausitz 1,335 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.249585, 14.528467

description

small crags or cliffs of Eastern Saxony

1.14.6. Zittauer Gebirge 1,921 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.844676, 14.741620

description

online route database: http://fizig.de/

1.14.7. Sächsische Schweiz 21,089 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.914560, 14.125178

summary

THE birthplace of free climbing: A lifetime of climbing with stout ethics among stunning sandstone towers - not for the faint hearted.

http://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elbsandsteingebirge

description

Die "Sächsische Schweiz" ist Bestandteil des "Elbsandsteingebirges". Das "Elbsandstein Gebirge" beinhaltet als 2. großen Teil die "Böhmische Schweiz". Allgemein werden zum Gebiet die Sandsteinfelsen gezählt. Am Rande des Gebietes kommt es zu Überschneidungen mit Ergussgesteinen.

Ein Teil des Gebirges gehört zum Nationalpark mit entsprechenden speziellen gesetzlichen Reglungen. Inzwischen werden durch die Behörden auch weitere Gebiete zur "Nationalparkregion" gezählt und gesetzliche Reglungen auch auf diese Gebiete ausgedehnt.

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains with their German part (Sächsische Schweiz = Saxon Switzerland) and the Czech counterpart (České Švýcarsko - Czech Switzerland) have long been a epicenter of climbing development (see History).

Today, luckily, the masses avoid the area mainly because of its grim reputation and stout ethics (see ethics), which require solid climbing skills, some modesty or someone giving advise on the route - even better, all of these. However, with roughly 1100 free standing rock formations and about 20000 routes to climb, this area is a must for the adventurous climber. Late spring till early autumn is the best time for climbing, although the enthusiast may also enjoy south faces on sunny winter days. These will be too hot in summer, but shady faces can always be found.

The standard guidebook is the 6-volume "Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" by Heinicke. Route descriptions in compacted German only. The alternative "Kompakt-Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" uses a cryptic sign language which is non-language specific. The "Topoführer Sächsische Schweiz" has only limited coverage, but lots of topos. The newest addition is the „Elbsandstein Plaisir – Kletterführer“ by Panico. This guidebook caters to beginners and visitors, with maps, topos and comments on the various climbs. But it only includes a very limited amount of routes.

If you don't have a local friend that can tell you if that VIIa is really VIIa or actually feels like VIIIb with ground fall potential, check http://www.teufelsturm.de with a huge route database and invaluable comments on many routes (in German, but with straightforward icons) or visit https://elllocesaqui.wordpress.com/ for a good overview in english, specifically designed for visitors. A comprehensive introduction into the local climbing slang can be found here: http://www.joergbrutscher.homepage.t-online.de/sandbag.htm

Other helpful websites are listed below. Most are in german, but they still provide a good overview for first time visitors. Especially helpful are the following websites, which recoomend nice, easy and beginner-friendly routes.

http://www.on-sight.de/gebiete/index.html?elbsandlist.html

http://www.wuestner.de/klettern_list.php?type=einf

http://www.reinoehl.de/landschaft/schweiz/klettern1_1.htm

http://www.rissanstiegsfreunde.de/site/Vorstiegsempfehlung.php

http://db-sandsteinklettern.gipfelbuch.de/gebiet.php?gebietid=19

Or watch this helpful video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jd3Gx9FzOA

Further informations: (only in german) http://www.nationalpark-saechsische-schweiz.de/besucherinformation/klettern/ https://www.bergzeit.de/magazin/klettern-saechsische-schweiz/ http://www.allgaeu-plaisir.de/klettern-im-elbsandstein-gebirge/

access issues

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Felsinfo or DAV Sachsen.

approach

The area is best reached from Dresden by commuter trains running every half an hour from Dresden (30 - 45 min). Depending on your destination, you can then continue by foot or use buses for the more remote areas, for which a car might be more convenient when you plan to return in the late hours. The more frequented areas are better avoided by car at the weekends, as lots of hikers can occupy the little parking the is. There are not many real roadside crags - be prepared to walk from 15 min (e.g. Falkenstein) up to 2 h (Hinterer Zschand).

where to stay

Being a popular tourist destination, many villages boast boarding houses and smaller hotels. The Sächsische Bergsteigerbund, a subdivision of the German Alpine Club, maintains two huts (Ottomühle and Saupsdorf) which generally require reservation (discounts on membership). Camping may be permitted at the alpine huts (charged) or on the camping ground in the Kirnitzschtal (NW of Bad Schandau). Traditionally, climbers used to bivouac at the walls under overhangs (Boofe ['boa-feh]). This is still tolerated in designated places (Freiübernachtungsstelle) There are 54 of these Boofen (https://www.wandern-saechsische-schweiz.de/wordpress/boofenliste/) Tread extremely lightly, as anything else endangers this compromise: no fires, no littering, dig a hole. Every summer the discussion about closing these bivouac sites rises again, so PLEASE sleep exclusively in the designated places and Leave No Trace.

ethic

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

history

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains are probably the birthplace of modern freeclimbing and certainly one of the most historic climbing areas you can find. Not counting the Bronze-age settlement on Pfaffenstein nor the occassional remains of castles of robber-knight on some summits, climbing here dates back to the mid 19th century.

In 1864, gymnasts from Bad Schandau ascended the Falkenstein. While their style (using ladders, thrown ropes and pick-axes) saw a few imitators, it soon became clear that what we today call "free-climbing" is the way to go. Oskar Schuster and Rudolf Fehrmann were among the driving forces to formulate the Saxonian climbing rules, as they still stand today (see ethics): no climbing onto anything "a cow could ascend" (ie only true summits), no progress on artificial holds, placing bolts only as the last resort. This visionary abstinence, born from a mixture of elitarism, boldness and an eye for conservation issues alike, helped to form a climbing standard that was unrivalled in the world for decades until the 1970ies. Milestones like Spannagelturm Perrykante (VIIb) by Oliver Perry-Smith (1906), Wilder Kopf Westkante (VIIIa) by Emanuel Strubich (1918), Frienstein Königshangel IXa by Fritz Eske (1965) and Amselspitze Schallmauer Xa (Bernd Arnold) are still testpieces for modern climbers - especially when you would climb with the equipment of the respective era.

Saxonian climbers like Fehrmann and Strubich also left their footprints in Alps. In the 1930ies, Fritz Wiessner brought Saxonian ethics to the USA, where it evolved to modern freeclimbing and finally spread over the world.

The two World Wars took their toll among climbers - but also the crags - a great part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains became part of Chechoslovakia, which made climbing trips for climbers crossing the border a little more complicated. During the Socialist era, free traveling to western countries was banned. Arguably, this may also have contributed to the rise of climbing difficulties: climbers like Karl-Heinz Gonda, Bernd Arnold, Mathias Gäbler and Manfred Vogel established benchmarks of their time. However, in the recent decades the strict gound-up ethic made the creation of climbs at the top end of the scale increasingly difficult if not impossible. Already, some first ascenders have been suspected to bend the rules; and debated routes have even been removed. Every few years, the controversy between traditionalist (defending the status quo) and reformers (wishing to allow climbing on currently forbidden walls and rappel-bolting) boils up again. So far, the tradition stood its ground, supported by the National Park administration, who also favours restrictive climbing rules.

Whatever the future may bring, with roughly 20000 routes there is a lifetime of climbing - and despite being considered "outclimbed" for first ascents long ago, some enthusiast still add some hundred routes each year.

1.14.8. Mittelsachsen 1,269 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.945608, 13.027751

description

"Kletterführer Mittelsachsen", Lutz Zybell und Gerald Krug, Geoquest-Verlag, 2021, ISBN 978-3-948622-00-8

1.14.9. Dresden und Umgebung 3,231 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.071950, 13.752237

1.14.10. Erzgebirge 1,136 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.566844, 12.930170

description

http://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erzgebirge Czech part see https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/czech-republic/area/786649992

history

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Krusne_Hory_Erzgebirge.png/500px-Krusne_Hory_Erzgebirge.png

1.14.11. Vogtland 1,280 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.660094, 12.128607

summary

Für das Bouldergebiet "Vogtland Bloc" im Vogtland gibt es einen kostenlosen Auswahlführer zum Downloaden: https://www.yumpu.com/de/document/view/63601192/vogtland-bloc-auswahlfuhrer

description

Die Kletterregion Vogtland umfaßt hier im wesentlichen den Bereich der vogtländischen Mulde und damit die nördlichen Teile des thüringischen und sächsischen Vogtlands. Das bayerische und böhmische Vogtland sowie die zum Elstergebirge gehörigen Anteile des sächsischen Vogtlandes bleiben außer Acht. Letzteres wird hier entsprechend der Gebirgszugehörigkeit separat geführt (http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/area/648011757).

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogtland .

1.14.12. Thüringisch-Fränkisches Schiefergebirge 130 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.408301, 11.467942

description

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Naturraumkarte_Thueringisch-Fraenkisch-Vogtlaendisches_Schiefergebirge.png

Thüringisches Schiefergebirge = several ranges of mountains which correctly do not belong to "Thüringer Wald", however often are aggregated together with it under this name

Fränkisches Schiefergebirge = Frankenwald

(Vogtländisches Schiefergebirge = ostthüring. Schiefergebirge: geografically seen as completly different region, however similar rocks. Part of Vogtland)

1.14.13. Fichtelgebirge 681 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.110564, 12.034437

description

Das Fichtelgebirge endet aus deutscher Sicht an der Grenze zu Tschechien. Der tschechische Begriff Smrčiny ist etwas umfassender und schließt das nordöstlich angrenzende Elstergebirge ein.

see https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/area/421095783

access issues

"Dreizonenkonzept" (see access issues of crags) (ohne Elstergebirge)

Zone 1: Ruhezonen, Klettern mit Seil nicht erlaubt, Boulder ist erlaubt, wenn nicht anders vermerkt

Zone 2: Vorrangzonen Naturschutz, Klettern auf bisherigen Wegen bis zum Umlenkhaken erlaubt, keine Neutouren

Zone 3: Vorrangzonen Klettern, Klettern und Neutouren nach Rücksprache erlaubt.

https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/zonierungen/fichtelgebirge/

where to stay

http://www.fichtelgebirge.net/unterkunft/campingpl%C3%A4tze

1.14.14. Obermainisches u. Oberpfälzisches Hügelland 111 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.751206, 11.799039

description

Zusammenfassung Obermainisches Hügelland und Oberpfälzer Hügelland.

Neben den Indoormöglichkeiten einige kleinere Klettereien und Bouldereien hauptsächlich an Sandsteinfelsen und in ehemal. Steinbrüchen.

1.14.15. Oberpfälzer Wald 157 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.610301, 12.437916

description

Czech part see:

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/czech-republic/area/786659742

1.14.16. Keuper-Lias + Gäuplatten 612 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.387289, 10.044371

summary

Nicht wirklich eine herausragende Kletter-"Region". Im wesentlichen .Indoor und einige Steinbrüche. Meist .Sandstein. Der Einschnitt des .Neckar erschließt zudem den darunterliegenden Muschelkalk (!).

description

Fränkisches und schwäbisches "Keuper-Lias-Land" und die Mainfränkische-, Tauber- und Neckar-Gäuplatten. Der Name ist nicht aus den Fingern gesaugt, sondern kennzeichnet immerhin 4 "naturräumliche Haupteinheitengruppen". Gerade zusammenfassend macht die Bezeichnung (und es gibt eben keine andere!) durchaus mehr Sinn, als die wenigen Möglichkeiten definitiv falsch dem Jura und Spessart mit den bekannten Gebieten zuzuschlagen, in noch wesentlich mehr Landschaftseinheiten aufzuteilen oder mangels "Kletterregion" die wenigen Crags und zwischenzeitlich Unmengen (!) an Gyms gar einzeln parallel und gleichwertig zu Regionen aufzuführen.

1.14.17. Frankenjura 15,358 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.247436, 11.408170

summary

Frankenjura is a world famous climbing destination hosting many classics that are listed in climbing history books. Its sheer size and variety of climbs offer a lifetime of climbing.

description

Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.

The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.

access issues

Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/

For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/

For bouldering, check first: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.

approach

Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.

Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.

where to stay

Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.

history

A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.

1.14.18. Niederbayern / Bayerischer Wald 509 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.763532, 12.812080

description

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayerischer_Wald

approach

small old climbing guide: http://www.kleimbing.de/Wichtiges__News/News_im_Detail_2005/Kletterfuhrer_Bayerischer_Wald_A5.pdf (PDF with 34 pages in german)

1.14.19. Oberbayern 7,674 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.097021, 11.925151

1.14.20. Bayerisch Schwaben 10 routes in Area

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.374988, 10.641208

1.14.21. Allgäu 2,958 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.731497, 10.279838

description

The Allgäu (Standard German: [ˈalɡɔʏ̯]) is a region in Swabia in southern Germany. It covers the south of Bavarian Swabia, southeastern Baden-Württemberg and parts of Austria. The region stretches from the prealpine lands up to the Alps. The main rivers flowing through the Allgäu are the Lech and Iller. Allgäu is not an administrative unit.

The Allgovian area is notable for its beautiful landscapes and is popular for vacations and therapeutic stays. It is well known in Germany for its farm produce, especially dairy products including Hirtenkäse ("herdsman's cheese") and Bergkäse ("hill cheese"), a generic alpine product also from Austria and Switzerland. Besides tourism and dairy products, another important economic sector is the building of industrial equipment and machines. Fendt tractors, developed and produced in Marktoberdorf are one of the most famous products of the region.

"Allgovia" is occasionally used as a synonym for the region. The alpine regions of the Allgäu rise over 2,000 metres in altitude and are popular for winter skiing. The castle of Neuschwanstein is in the eastern part of the Allgäu. Source Wikipedia

Maps

  • AVE 2, 7a

Guide Books

1.14.22. Hegau 304 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.855496, 8.938515

1.14.23. Linzgau - Oberschwaben 393 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.770004, 9.561350

description

Linzgau is a region in southern Germany in the state of Baden-Württemberg north of Lake Constance and south of the Danube valley. It is bounded by Lake Constance on the south, the Hegau on the west, the Danube valley on the north, and the Schussen River on the east. It reaches west as far as Überlingen and north as far as Pfullendorf.

1.14.24. Schwäbische Alb 4,186 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.445332, 9.588043

description

The Swabian Jura offers numerous possibilities for sport climbing and belongs - together with the Elbe Sandstone Mountains aka Saxon Switzerland and the Franconian Jura - to the outstanding low mountain ranges in Germany when it comes to climbing.

The 'upper Danube valley'[249396492] offers the best climbing possibilities and the highest walls. Other areas with good climbing possibilities are located in the 'Blaubeuren area'[249297927], in the 'Lenninger Valley'[249521403] and in the 'Ermstal Valley'[249742932]. The individual guides over the numerous larger and smaller rocks are described in several climbing guidebooks. On the Ostalb the rock formations of the Rosenstein near Heubach and the Eselsburger Tal are among the best known climbing areas. The steep rocks at the ruin Reußenstein near Neidlingen are also a popular place for climbing. In the Swabian Jura area there are hundreds of climbing routes up to difficulty level 10.

Source Wikipedia

Checkout Jörg Zeidelhacks video medley of hard routes in the Swabian Jura. It gives a great overview over the rock and landscape:

https://vimeo.com/185016466

https://vimeo.com/368491595

access issues

Climbing has not been permitted everywhere for several years. The Nature Conservation Act of Baden-Wuerttemberg includes the rocks among the so-called §24a biotopes. In principle, entering these biotopes is not permitted. In recent years, the nature conservation administration and the climbing associations have succeeded in defining the areas that can be climbed and the climbing bans for the entire Swabian Jura. Some rocks are now closed all year round, some climbing bans only apply seasonally during the breeding season of certain bird species (e.g. eagle owl or kestrel).

Source Wikipedia

1.14.25. Schwarzwald 2,788 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.279025, 8.220606

1.14.26. Westpfalz 2,969 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Rock climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.301596, 7.765048

access issues

Always check for temporary closed crags due to environmental protection. There is a dedicated homepage from the 'Pfälzer Kletterer', that shows all currently closed crags: http://www.pfaelzer-kletterer.de/sub_tourendb/pfalztour/felssperrung/sperrlistePfalz.php

Please stick to it or some crags could be closed permanently, which happened in the past.

1.14.27. Saar-Nahe-Bergland 229 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.468141, 7.202650

description

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saar-Nahe-Bergland .

1.14.28. Hunsrück 426 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.903177, 7.271803

1.14.29. Eifel 2,792 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.319264, 7.041019

1.14.30. Niederrheinische Bucht & Ruhrgebiet 2,596 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.317737, 7.103233

1.14.31. Rhein-Main 233 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.395111, 8.296448

description

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oberrheinische_Tiefebene .

1.14.32. Süderbergland 625 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.158860, 7.840747

description

Süderbergland auf Wikipedia

1.14.33. Westerwald 23 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.631788, 7.943492

1.14.34. Taunus 407 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.285966, 8.194167

description

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taunus

1.14.35. Odenwald 1,827 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.620004, 9.070736

summary

Gestein: Odenwälder Sandstein und verschiedene kristalline Gesteine

(http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odenw%C3%A4lder_Sandstein)

description

Die Klettergebiete des Odenwalds sind aus dem für die Region typischen Sandstein. Dies gilt ebenfalls für die Bouldergebiete im Süden in der Heiderlberger Umgebung. Die Bouldergebiete im Nordwesten, wie z.B. das Felsenmeer, sind alle kristallin, mit vielen Variationen von plutonischem Granit, Gabbro, Diorit und metamorphen Gneis. Für detailiertere Informationen siehe https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odenwald .

--

The climbing areas of the Odenwald, as well as the southern bouldering areas in the Heidelberg region, consist of sandstone characteristic for this area. The bouldering areas of the north-west are dominated by crystalline intrusive/plutonic rock, e.g. granite, gabbro, and diorite and metamorphic gneiss. For more details, please see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odenwald

1.14.36. Spessart 151 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.030024, 9.336770

description

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spessart

1.14.37. Vogelsberg 0 routes in Region

List view

1.14.38. Rhön 532 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.486466, 10.034221

1.14.39. Teutoburger Wald + Eggegebirge 426 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.131697, 8.308994

description

Topo: https://klettern-shop.de/kletterfuehrer/52-klettern-im-teutoburger-wald

1.14.40. Weser-Leine-Bergland 4,092 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.031578, 9.394629

description

http://www.klettergebiete.info/html/klettergebiete-weser-leine-ith.html

1.14.41. Großraum Göttingen 842 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.557193, 10.009333

1.14.42. Harz + Harzvorland 4,989 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.764794, 10.801541

description

Der Harz, bis ins Mittelalter Hart (‚Bergwald‘) genannt, ist ein Mittelgebirge in Deutschland und das höchste Gebirge Norddeutschlands. Er liegt am Schnittpunkt von Niedersachsen, Sachsen-Anhalt und Thüringen. Anteil am Harz haben im Westen die Landkreise Goslar und Göttingen, im Norden und Osten die Landkreise Harz und Mansfeld-Südharz und im Süden der Landkreis Nordhausen. Der Brocken ist mit 1141,2 m ü. NHN der höchste Berg des Harzes und Sachsen-Anhalts.

Die Bergwelt des Harzes wurde schon in früheren Zeiten für ausgedehnte Wanderungen genutzt (u. a. von Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Heinrich Heine und Hans Christian Andersen). Neben dem Okertal und der Roßtrappe bei Thale sind auch die Hohneklippen (Höllenklippe und Feuerstein bei Schierke) das Ziel von Kletterern.

Quelle: Wikipedia

Mehr Informationen gibt es bei der IG-Klettern Niedersachsen.

access issues

Aktuelle Informationen zu ganzjährigen und saisonalen Sperrungen gibt es bei der IG-Klettern Niedersachsen.

Bitte Ausschilderung und Absperrungen beachten !

Zonenregelung

  • Zone I: Tabuzone (ganzjähriger Verzicht bzw. Sperrung, Ruhezone)
  • Zone II: Status-Quo-Zone (Klettern nur auf den bestehenden Routen, keine Neutouren)
  • Zone III: Entwicklungszone (Neutouren möglich)

1.14.43. Eichsfeld (Thüringen) 0 routes in Region

List view

description

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landkreis_Eichsfeld

Als historische Region umfaßt das Eichsfeld auch Teile Niedersachsens und Hessens. Hier ist es im wesentlichen nur der thüring. Landkreis Eichsfeld.

1.14.44. Thüringer Becken 197 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.094564, 11.055799

1.14.45. Thüringer Wald 1,258 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.750147, 10.609480

description

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Naturraumkarte_Thueringer_Wald.png

https://www.thueringer-wald.com/urlaub-wandern-winter/klettergebiete-120450.html

1.14.46. Nordhessen 216 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.143671, 9.321762

1.15. Greece 14,801 routes in Region

List view
10 7 5 9 6 4 11 2 1 8 3
1 Aegean Islands 2 Athens 3 Crete 4 Evia 5 Ipeiros 6 Central Greece 7 Macedonia 8 Peloponnese 9 Thessaly 10 Thrace 11 Ionian Islands
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.044128, 24.554689

description

some overview of climbing areas at http://climbgreece.com

1.15.1. Aegean Islands 5,507 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.270270, 26.180270

1.15.2. Athens 1,522 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.989674, 23.603477

summary

The Capital of Greece with dozens of crags nearby, most easily accesible

description

Athens is a big city and in terms of climbing Atheneans are very lucky. There are nearby routes from 3 to 8th grade, short, long, sport, trad and mixed. Different crags may have complete different characteristics.

Climbing in Athens is friendly all year round if you choose the correct crag according to sun position

In general, if you travel by car approach is not an issue, most crags require less than 15 minute walking.

approach

Nearest airport is Eleftherios Venizelos (ATH). Biggest nearby ports are Piraeus, Rafina and Lavrio There is train (OSE) and bus (KTEL) conection with all major cities of Greece daily.

where to stay

Athens is full of Hotels, hostels, AirBnBs so you won't have problem finding where to stay

1.15.3. Crete 651 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 35.062677, 24.896817

summary

Crete is the largest Greek islands and offers plenty of rock and sea. From a climbing perspective it is not as developed as some other islands but has huge potential.

description

...

GUIDEBOOKS

Unfortunately there is no complete guidebook, but the following 5 local guidebooks. So let's make thecrag the complete guidebook! ;-)

"Greece - Sport Climbing: The Best Of", Aris Theodoropoulos, 2nd edition 2017, ISBN 9789609456210. 30 sort crags in whole Greece, in Crete the 3 crags Voulismeno Aloni, Plakias and Thersanas are covered.

[GR] "Crete - Climbing in Chania", ΜΑΝΩΛΙΣ ΜΕΣΑΡΧΑΚΗΣ, 2007, ISBN 9789608195950. Mostly in greek with a few english comments and approach descriptions, though with the topos usable for non-greek readers. It covers the areas Stavros, Kalathos, Monte Vardia, Aghii Apostoli, Theriso, Gigilos-Pyrgi and Marmara.

"Climbing in Crete - From North to South", Phillipe Bugada, 2009, ISBN 9782952637817. Bilingual guidebook covering the north coast crags Skoteino and Malia and the south coast crags Plakias, Agiofarango, Kapetanania and Treis Ekklisies.

[GR] "Crete - Kapetaniana", Phillippe Bugada, 2006, ISBN 9782952637800. Very colourful french guidebook in 4 languages for the Kapetaniana crags.

"Kreta - Paradies Ostkreta", Albert Precht, 2015, self published. Poetic german guidebook covering 11 crags around the Ha-Canyon. Sportcrags and a lot of multipitch routes.

approach

The island is well served by ferries and can also be easily reached by plane.

1.15.4. Evia 654 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.477359, 23.717770

summary

Evia offers among others Alpine and Sport routes near Athens

approach

Evia can be accesed by car from the Highway Athens - Thessaloniki. Also, there are numerous ferry connections. The most importants are from Rafina, Aidipsos and Glyfa

where to stay

Evia is a touristic place and there are lots of hotels and rooms as well as camping places

1.15.5. Ipeiros 621 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.672764, 20.820251

1.15.6. Central Greece 422 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.812387, 22.181935

summary

Officially central greece also includes Attica and Evia, but its probably better to leave these two as toplevel.

1.15.7. Macedonia 844 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 40.600779, 22.885031

1.15.8. Peloponnese 3,599 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.184880, 22.377336

1.15.9. Thessaly 619 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 39.571417, 22.453191

1.15.10. Thrace 362 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.035762, 25.562138

1.15.11. Ionian Islands 0 routes in Region

List view

summary

The administrative region does include all of the Ionian Islands with the exception of Kythera. It is a popular tourist destination and offers some climbing and Deep Water Soloing.

1.16. Hungary 2,692 routes in Region

List view
11 8 9 6 2 7 5 1 4 3 10 12
1 Budapest 2 Börzsöny 3 Bakony 4 Vértes 5 Gerecse 6 Mátra 7 Pilis 8 Zemplén 9 Bükk 10 Balaton-felvidék 11 Aggteleki Nemzeti Park 12 Mecsek
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.141204, 19.446180

description

Check http://ludens.elte.hu/climb/climb.html for helpful information.

1.16.1. Budapest 498 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.485239, 19.107418

1.16.2. Börzsöny 18 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.928940, 18.932556

1.16.3. Bakony 356 routes in Area

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.229675, 17.743923

description

Bakony is a mountainous region in Transdanubia, Hungary. It forms the largest part of the Transdanubian Mountains. It is located north of Lake Balaton and lies almost entirely in Veszprém county.

1.16.4. Vértes 165 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.441683, 18.364652

1.16.5. Gerecse 618 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.662920, 18.476847

1.16.6. Mátra 205 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.913465, 19.955654

1.16.7. Pilis 362 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.705658, 18.917349

1.16.8. Zemplén 93 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.389392, 21.415338

1.16.9. Bükk 237 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.011821, 20.507636

1.16.10. Balaton-felvidék 79 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.912939, 17.447737

1.16.11. Aggteleki Nemzeti Park 0 routes in Area

List view

summary

Aggtelek National Park

description

National Park near the Hungarian-Slovakian border. The only crag in the area is at Aggtelek where climbing is only allowed during the annual "Aggtelek Kupa" (Aggtelek Climbing Festival).

1.16.12. Mecsek 61 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.144400, 18.265542

1.17. Iceland 250 routes in Region

List view
3 2 4 1
1 Reykjavik 2 Akureyri 3 Vestfirðir 4 East area
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 65.085661, -17.422831

description

http://www.klifur.is/

http://www.isalp.is/en/category/crag

map: https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&t=p&source=embed&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=109102779225458753859.00048240a25d103bca6b8

1.17.1. Reykjavik 82 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 64.294235, -21.493712

1.17.2. Akureyri 25 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Ice climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 65.804085, -19.110699

1.17.3. Vestfirðir 20 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 65.915547, -22.796533

1.17.4. East area 123 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 65.002050, -15.409380

summary

East Iceland hosts some of the islands best crags and weather conditions.

1.18. Ireland 2,694 routes in Region

List view
11 15 13 9 1 10 2 3 8 7 6 4 5
1 Dalkey Quarry 2 Glendalough 3 Ballykeefe Quarry 4 Beaumont Quarry, Cork 5 Old Head of Kinsale 6 Gap of Dunloe 7 Lough Gur, Limerick 8 Knockroe Crag, Limerick 9 Ardmore, Waterford 10 The Burren 11 County Donegal 13 The Playbank, Co. Cavan 15 Sligo
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.167233, -8.608557

1.18.1. Dalkey Quarry 222 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.270666, -6.106943

1.18.2. Glendalough 48 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.006432, -6.396546

1.18.3. Ballykeefe Quarry 95 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.613179, -7.403106

1.18.4. Beaumont Quarry, Cork 1 route in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.891045, -8.432084

1.18.5. Old Head of Kinsale 50 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.612678, -8.537342

1.18.6. Gap of Dunloe 15 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.017081, -9.649855

1.18.7. Lough Gur, Limerick 9 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.517046, -8.527217

1.18.8. Knockroe Crag, Limerick 17 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.579386, -8.505295

1.18.9. Ardmore, Waterford 20 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.588683, -8.777060

1.18.10. The Burren 37 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.070498, -9.357214

1.18.11. County Donegal 2,062 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.712551, -7.860699

1.18.12. Knockhourough Crag, Limerick 0 routes in Crag

List view

1.18.13. The Playbank, Co. Cavan 52 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 54.179162, -7.953039

1.18.14. Inis Mór 0 routes in Region

List view

1.18.15. Sligo 66 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.308698, -8.545819

1.19. Italy 61,207 routes in Region

List view
5 7 6 3 4 2 8 1 19 9 10 11 13 12 14 15 18 16 17
1 Liguria 2 Piemonte 3 Val d'Aosta 4 Lombardia 5 Trentino-Alto Adige 6 Veneto 7 Friuli-Venezia Giulia 8 Emilia-Romagna 9 Toscana 10 Marche 11 Umbria 12 Lazio 13 Abruzzo e Molise 14 Puglia 15 Campania e Lucania 16 Calabria 17 Sicily 18 Sardinia 19 San Marino
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.378899, 12.288080

1.19.1. Liguria 6,687 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.246762, 8.758801

1.19.2. Piemonte 5,459 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.062009, 7.925142

1.19.3. Val d'Aosta 1,339 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.731559, 7.383387

1.19.4. Lombardia 9,206 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.629380, 9.774508

1.19.5. Trentino-Alto Adige 11,394 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.447858, 11.283272

description

The Dolomites (Italian: Dolomiti; Ladin: Dolomites; German: Dolomiten; Venetian: Dołomiti: Friulian: Dolomitis) are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. They form a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extend from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley (Pieve di Cadore) in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley (Val Sugana). The Dolomites are nearly equally shared between the provinces of Belluno, South Tyrol and Trentino.

There are also mountain groups of similar geological structure that spread over the River Piave to the east – Dolomiti d'Oltrepiave; and far away over the Adige River to the west – Dolomiti di Brenta (Western Dolomites). There is also another smaller group called Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites) located between the provinces of Trentino, Verona and Vicenza (see the map).

One national park and many other regional parks are located in the Dolomites. In August 2009, the Dolomites were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

1.19.6. Veneto 5,040 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.631760, 11.878523

1.19.7. Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2,705 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.145418, 13.069202

1.19.8. Emilia-Romagna 1,125 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.521452, 11.056827

1.19.9. Toscana 2,260 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.205375, 10.852385

description

some topos (in Italian) at http://www.toscoclimb.it

1.19.10. Marche 687 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.367063, 13.176277

1.19.11. Umbria 764 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.978743, 12.500197

1.19.12. Lazio 3,175 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.713250, 12.811923

1.19.13. Abruzzo e Molise 1,268 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.113569, 14.180984

1.19.14. Puglia 278 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.252773, 16.496052

1.19.15. Campania e Lucania 961 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.733121, 15.326633

1.19.16. Calabria 230 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.040596, 16.282351

1.19.17. Sicily 2,842 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.397407, 13.730142

summary

Being an island in the very south of Italy, Sicily is an ideal climbing destination for the colder months of the year. It offers superb sport climbing on limestone, but also much more.

description

Guidebooks

The best source is the fifth version of La Roccia di Sole which was published in 2022 and covers the whole Sicily (some minor crags were left out). The San Vito area has it's own guidebook which is regularly updated, Sicily-Rock - which is available for purchase in the El Bahira camping.

  • Allclimb - https://allclimb.com/en/guides/sicily/ covers only the northern part of Sicily, and only sport climbing.

  • Paid topos are availble in the app ClimbAdvisor - on Google play and Appstore. ClimbAdvisor covers most of Sicily including the bouldering areas, but leaves out the south-east unfortunately.

Rope climbing areas:

  • San Vito lo Capo
    - you can't talk about climbing in Sicily without mentioning San Vito. This is the number 1 climbing destination here, and a truly world-class area with amazing sport climbing by the sea, as well as few multipitches. What makes this place special is that there are interesting routes also for beginners and advanced climbers, not just for pros.
  • Palermo
    lives a bit in the shadow of San Vito, although the sport climbing here is comparatively good. There is more focus on trad and multipitch climbing here

  • When it gets too hot at the coast, there are good options in the mountains - Parco delle Madonie being the prime example, but also the area around Etna

  • The south-east of Sicily is a bit of hidden gem - areas around the cities of Ragusa and Siracusa feature countless crags in the many canyons here. If you are an ambitious crusher, this is your place to be as the climbing tends to be on the harder side.

Bouldering:: not too many people heard about the bouldering in Sicily, which is a shame because there are two great areas here, and both on sandstone blocks.

  • Bosco Scorace
    - new crag near San Vito with around 200 lines on the blocks
  • Bronte Blocks
    - blocks under the slopes of Etna with around 300 boulder problems

Equipment needed

The minumum needed is a 60m rope and 15 quickdraws as that's sufficient for most routes here, but it's better to bring a 70m rope and 18 quickdraws so that you can climb almost everything. For multipitches you will need extra trad gear and slings

Rest day tips There's plenty to do in Sicily, even if you didn't want to climb at all.

north-west

  • Erice - nice historical village with great view
  • Zingaro national park - ideal for hiking or staying on a beach, but as of 2020 still closed due to a local fire
  • Hot springs - they are a bit further from San Vito, but definitely worth it. For free.
  • Palermo - nice city centre if you have the driver skills to survive getting through the traffic.
  • Tempio di Segesta - ancient temple and archeological area
  • Monreale - historic town near Palermo with a famous cathedral

south-west

  • Parco archeologico di Selinute - nice archeological site
  • Scala dei Turchi - impressive cliffs above the sea
  • Vally of the temples - famous archeological site near Agrigento

north-east

  • Etna - unmissable volcano, although during the climbing season might be very cold and requiring winter gear
  • Taormina - nice historical city with great view of Etna

south-east

  • Three historical cities, each of them a gem - Ragusa Ibla, Noto and Siracusa
  • Cavagrande del Cassibile - Sicilian Grand canyon, great for hiking
  • Pantalica - canyon with a large necropolis, a nice hike as well

central sicily from north to south

  • Cefalù - nice historical city
  • Parco della Madonna - impressive mountain range with endless hiking posibilities
  • Enna - nice historical town with great view over a large part of Sicily
  • Villa Romana del Casale - famous Roman villa with impressive mosaics

approach

you can fly to Palermo, Trapani or Catania. It's advisable to rent a car, as public transport in Sicily isn't the best. If San Vito lo Capo is your only destination, it's possible to manage without a car.

where to stay

Plenty of campings, guesthouses or airbnb's are available all around Sicily. As climbers come here from October to May, the prices are generally lower since it's outside of the standard tourist season.

1.19.18. Sardinia 5,750 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.023795, 9.008808

summary

Pleasant spring and autumn destination with marvellous seaside crags and lots of potential.

description

Find some information at http://www.climb-europe.com/sardinia.htm

1.19.19. San Marino 37 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.935485, 12.460393

1.20. Jersey 52 routes in Region

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17 3 8 1 10 26 18
1 Beauport 3 Dangle dell 8 La Corbière 10 La moye 17 Plemont 18 Portelet 26 Trespass point
Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.114194, -2.186056

description

Beautiful Island with lots of trad routes along its shore. Check the tides before you go as many routes can't be accessible at high tide

1.20.1. Beauport 0 routes in Area

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1.20.2. Bumbley Buttress 0 routes in Area

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1.20.3. Dangle dell 52 routes in Area

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.255124, -2.251065

1.20.4. Grosnez Point 0 routes in Area

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1.20.5. Guano Zawn 0 routes in Area

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1.20.6. Jewel crag 0 routes in Area

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1.20.7. L'ille Agois 0 routes in Area

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1.20.8. La Corbière 0 routes in Area

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1.20.9. La Cotte de St Brelade 0 routes in Area

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1.20.10. La moye 0 routes in Area

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1.20.11. La Nethe Falaise 0 routes in Area

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1.20.12. La prison 0 routes in Area

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1.20.13. La vallette 0 routes in Area

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1.20.14. Le Puleq 0 routes in Area

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1.20.15. Le vyi 0 routes in Area

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1.20.16. Mourier Valley 0 routes in Area

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1.20.17. Plemont 0 routes in Area

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1.20.18. Portelet 0 routes in Area

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1.20.19. Rabbit's Bottom 0 routes in Area

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1.20.20. Radar Buttress 0 routes in Area

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1.20.21. Rouge nez 0 routes in Area

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1.20.22. Sheep crag 0 routes in Area

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1.20.23. Sorel Point 0 routes in Area

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1.20.24. The pinnacle 0 routes in Area

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1.20.25. The Rabbit's Head 0 routes in Area

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1.20.26. Trespass point 0 routes in Area

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1.20.27. Wolf's Caves 0 routes in Area

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1.21. Kosovo 18 routes in Region

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2 4 3
2 Berim 3 Prizren 4 Guri i Plakës
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.564527, 20.916865

1.21.1. Peć 0 routes in Crag

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1.21.2. Berim 10 routes in Crag

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.900574, 20.580897

1.21.3. Prizren 3 routes in Area

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.226600, 20.742786

1.21.4. Guri i Plakës 5 routes in Crag

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.674180, 20.960250

1.22. Latvia 0 routes in Region

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1.22.1. Riga 0 routes in Crag

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1.23. Liechtenstein 30 routes in Region

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1 3 2
1 Drei Schwestern 2 St. Katharinabrunnen 3 Kletterturm LAV Malbun
Summary:
Bouldering, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 47.141199, 9.552965

1.23.1. Drei Schwestern 1 route in Crag

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Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 47.175867, 9.572395

summary

Impressive views to the Rhine valley, Alpstein, Walgau, Rätikon and Lake of Constance.

description

The Three Sisters are three peaks of a mountain chain in Rätikon, a mountain range of the western central alps. The main peak, the size of the sisters, has a height of 2053 m above sea level, the middle sister located north-east of it reaches a height of 2,048 meters and the north-eastern little sister is 2,034 meters high.

The three peaks mark the border between the Austrian state of Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein. West to the Rhine Valley and north to the Walgau the three sisters are very geographical dominant because of their advamced northwestern location and their steep rugged rock. Through a well-developed trail system they are easily accessible and are often ascended.

approach

Walk from Planken (FL) in 3 hours via Gafadura hut.

history

The first ascent was made probably by hunter, the main peak was beaten by a tourist on 10 June 1870, the Scottish mountaineer John Sholto Douglass, which was accompanied by the hunter Wieser from Feldkirch.

1.23.2. St. Katharinabrunnen 18 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.057952, 9.513250

summary

Few sparse boulders right at the borders between Switzerland and Liechtenstein. Agressive but good grip rock.

access issues

You can park your car at the parking lot, just 50m away from the 1st boulder, located at the very end of Balzers village. [Öffentlicher Parkplatz, St. Kathrinabrunna, 9496 Balzers, Liechtenstein - GPS : 47.058772, 9.512204]

ethic

Boulders are probably located on a private field/forest, and you might have to cross it to reach the boulders. Please respect the crop (if any) and avoid to damage the ground. Leave no trace behind.

1.23.3. Kletterturm LAV Malbun 11 routes in Artificial

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Summary:
Rock climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 47.105045, 9.604464

summary

Kletterturm mit Eis-, Drytooling- und Sportkletterrouten auf dem Dach des Täli-Sessellifts (Talstation)

description

Online-Infos siehe: https://www.alpenverein.li/wandern-klettern/eis-und-kletterturm

1.24. Lithuania 0 routes in Region

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1
1 Bonobo

1.24.1. Bonobo 0 routes in Gym

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summary

Lead climbing and bouldering gym with climbing specific exercise appliances, dry-tooling lead routes, natural light and more.

description

In BONOBO climbing center we have both lead climbing and bouldering walls with a variety of angles ranging from positive (slabs) to steep overhangs and the climbing hall has air conditioning as well as natural light most of the time during the day. We also have a training room full of training appliances such as a 2017 Moonboard, a Zlag board, campus and finger boards, a treadmill, dumbbells and a bench for pressing weights. Besides climbing itself we sell (and rent) climbing equipment, tasty sodas and coffee of course.

1.24.2. Vilnius 0 routes in Crag

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1.25. Luxembourg 270 routes in Region

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3 1 2 4
1 Berdorf 2 Centre Sportif Coque 3 Dillingen 4 Red Rock climbing wall
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.779547, 6.098995

1.25.1. Berdorf 228 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.831650, 6.344608

summary

An excellent but small sandstone crag in Luxembourg, close to the German border. Often crowded on sunny weekends.

description

The "Wanterbaach" crag in Berdorf, Luxembourg offers excellent climbing on sandstone in a fairy tale forest. There are about 174 routes in total with the majority of popular routes being 20 to 30 meters long and graded 5c to 7b. Most of the routes are well protected with glue-in bolts. Gear: 60 m rope, 13 quickdraws.

Crowds: Berdorf is usually very busy on sunny weekends, during school holidays of the surrounding countries, on Luxembourgish bank holidays, etc. An impression of how busy it gets: https://youtu.be/0mTddAKFeLw

The classic climbs start at 5c and the grading can feel hard if you're not used to the sandstone and because some popular routes have a though start. Climbers comfortable in the 6c to 7a range, will find the most 3 star routes to choose from. With 25 routes in the 7c to 8c range, Berdorf is attractive to pros too.

As a guideline for climbers who are just starting out: You'll probably have the most fun if you're able to lead 6a to 6b indoors. The routes graded easier than 5b are oftentimes intimidating, very short, or not enjoyable because of ropedrag.

A new guidebook (Berdorf Wanterbaach) was published in February 2021. It contains not only Berdorf but also the crag at Audin-le-tiche ( in France, direct beyond the Luxemburgish border at Esch sur Alzette ) the Guidebook is actually available at Caspers Climbing shop ( in Mamer and on their online shop )

The guidebook "Climbing in Berdorf, 2nd Edition" is still available at the campsite "Martbusch", other places in town and online.

Additional route information, combi's, pretty pictures and video's can be found on the official(?) instagram account.

access issues

To be allowed to climb here, you need to be member of a climbing federation which is part of the UIAA or IFSC. Such as the FLERA, DAV, NKBV, [...].

approach

From "Martbusch" camping site, walk towards the end of the road. Keep and turn right at the end of the road. Now in the forest, continue walking for some minutes until you see decending stairs to your left. These lead into the crag.

where to stay

There are two campsites in Berdorf: "Belle Vue 2000" and "Martbusch". Both are popular with climbers. If you're looking for more comfort, the "Trail Inn" is also very close to the climbing.

ethic

Used chalk? USE A BRUSH! Climbing below your limit? Try climbing without chalk.

1.25.2. Centre Sportif Coque 0 routes in Gym

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approach

d'COQUE 2, rue Léon Hengen L-1745 Luxembourg +352 43 60 60 1

1.25.3. Dillingen 42 routes in Field

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Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.853406, 6.298865

description

It is not allowed to climb in this area. Below are the routes of people who did so anyway.

approach

The exact location is unknown.

1.25.4. Red Rock climbing wall 0 routes in Gym

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1.26. North Macedonia 567 routes in Region

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3 2 1 5 10 4 9 8 6 7
1 Kadina 2 Skopje 3 Bislimska klisura 4 Demir Kapija 5 Mavrovo 6 Ohrid 7 Prespa 8 Pelister 9 Prilep 10 Plocha
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.593650, 21.703544

1.26.1. Kadina 41 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.830026, 21.587792

summary

Climbing season: The crag is south-west orientated and provides perfect conditions for climbing in the period from October till beginning of May. Good climbing is also possible in the summer, only inside in the cave.

description

Equipment: The routes are up to 30 m long, and you will need 60m single rope. You will need up to 15 quick draws.

approach

The crag is located on 34 km, South-East direction from Centrum of Skopje, or chronologically 1 hour. Drive towards Zelenikovo village, through the suburbs Usje, Pintija, Drachevo, and after 15 min of driving you will pass Oreshani and Zelenikovo village. Right after is the Zelenikovo village rail station.

When you enter the village station Zelenikovo (you cannot miss) you continue on the road to the right from the railway, and in front there will be a mini square, (more likely-clearing) where the city bus line-67 turns back (this is the last station).

From there on, keep on the road, straight, and you will soon start uphill to the large “S” turn. Keep uphill and on the next left 180 turn, keep left, passing by small village Strahojadica (on the right), there will be panoramic view on the terrain in front. This road will take you to the rustic village Gumalevo. As soon as you pass Strahojadica, the dirt road comes next. Keep left. Do not turn. It lasts only 3km. Just keep straight on the road, and don’t turn at all. The dirt road is suitable for any kind of vehicle.

When you enter in village Gumalevo, drive until you exit the village, and right after 50m from the exit there is parking on the right side where you can park your vehicle. From there you continue on foot, and right after the sheepfold there is a Poplar tree which will instruct you to leave the wide trail you just walked, and brake left on the hiking trail. The hiking trail extends through tobacco fields, and a view of the crag will show up and continue. You will get into small forest of bushes which lead to Kadina Cave.

where to stay

In Skopje or in tent under the rock!

history

The sport climbing crag Kadina is a newly found crag close to the Macedonian capital city, Skopje. This wonderful crag waited long to be found by the Macedonian sport climbers and finally happened in 2013, when Goran Kuzmanovski alias Malik, discovered it. This crag is one of a kind. Very soon after, Vladimir Trpovski, Dimitar Popov and Kire Serafimovski climbed the first lines there. Thank you to the members who helped in bolting this crag-- Macedonian sport climbing clubs SKK VARDAR and SKK Extreme, like Milan, Dino, Vane, Zuti, Viktor, David, Marta,Lide, Maja, Ici, Tomi, Zorko, Jozi and Miha.

1.26.2. Skopje 48 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.891816, 21.443186

1.26.3. Bislimska klisura 81 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.046388, 21.764486

summary

Bislimska klisura (Ravenue)

description

Bislimska klisura is located in Kumanovo, in the north part of North Macedonia, just before the Macedonian-Serbian border. Bislimska Llisura is the canyon of the Pcinja river and is near the Pcinja village. You can find the gate entrance in the canyon which starts with the last house in the village.Bislimska klisura is located in Kumanovo area in the north part of Macedonia, just before the Macedonian-Srbian border. Bislimska klisura is the canyon of the Pcinja river and is near the Pcinja village. Exactly the gate entrance in the canyon starts with the last house in the village.

access issues

From Kumanovo town you should take the road for Pcinja village.

From Skopje after the first pay toll, driving on the highway, from the left side, you will find Romanovce village. On the right side, there is a ground (dirty) exit for the quarry, drive that way on the ground (dirty) road to the village Pcinja. Drive in the village till the gate of the entrance of the ravine. Park the car there and continue walking, after 10 minutes walking the rock will appear from your right side.

approach

Google map> https://goo.gl/maps/xriBfncZ6fk

where to stay

Free camping is possible and rent a room in the village, also Hotels in Kumanovo.

ethic

For all visitors of climbing sites:

  1. Park where permitted or marked for parking.

  2. Move and climb in arranged and guided directions.

  3. Do not destroy the plant and animal world, do not mark it and do not break the rock      and other objects.

  4. Do not comment when someone climbs.

  5. The work of a foreigner adorns the environment.

  6. Take the trash with you.

  7. In the event of an accident, help within your possibilities and call for help.

history

Vladimir Trpovski, Zdravko Petrovski and Stojan HadziJeftimov are opened 100 routes during the Corona pandemic at 2020 and they made new climbing ares in North Macedonia.

1.26.4. Demir Kapija 206 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.408320, 22.259333

summary

Demir Kapija one of the best places in Macedonia for climbing, mountaineering, trekking, fishing and other outdoor activities.

description

Now there are 16 sectors for sport climbing, more than 200 routes have varying category of difficulty from 4 to 8c, and about 20 bolting multipitchs, and infinite potential for old and new TRAD routes.

Topo: http://www.climbing-macedonia.com/demir-kapija1

access issues

Many rocks are located near the roads and infrastructures, that gives fast access to most of the climbing sectors; most of it are suitable for beginners and groups with children. Most of the rocks are limestone but an hour away there are also sandstone and granite rocks for climbing, mountaineering and bouldering. Location of walls allows you to find a place for climbing at any time of the year. In the summertime everyone tries to hide in the shadow. In winter people can get joy from climbing in the sun light areas where rocks give their warmth.

approach

Nearest sectors are only 10 minutes walk from the center of Demir Kapija. Most of sectors reached from the parking place between the tunnels - (5 minutes by car) Demir Kapija’s community locates in the southern part of Macedonia next to the highway Skopje – Athens. The distance from Skopje is 117 km, which takes about an hour by car or two hours by train ‘Skopje – Gevgelija’. Distance to the border with Greece is about 80 km. The nearest international airports are: in Skopje (Alexander the Great Airport), in Ohrid (Ohrid St. Paul the Apostle Airport, 195 Km), in Thessaloniki (International Airport “Macedonia”, 121 Km). From one point to another you can get by bus or by taxi. Also you can order a transfer from an airport.

where to stay

Rock Land Camp http://rocklandcamping.wix.com/rock-land-camp https://www.facebook.com/Rock-Land-Camp-236991173135100/ Dame Gruev st. 36 Demir Kapija 1442

history

Although the first rout in canyon Demir Kapija was climbed (by our information) in 1974, and rocks have attracted sportsman for a long time, the most climbing activities in this area has been developing just in the last five years. The Number of routes and sectors have grown so fast and now, for climbers, tourists and backpackers, there are hostel and a nice place for camping "Rock land Camp".

1.26.5. Mavrovo 36 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.701518, 20.647316

description

Mavrovo is a well known tourist destination located in the high mountains in the western part of Macedonia. It's one of the best destinations in the country, popular for outdoor tourism and known for it’s huge potential and mystical beauty. It is a hot spot for skiing and ice climbing during the winter, mountain biking, hiking, fishing, kayaking and climbing during the summer. It is open all year round-- a cradle for all kinds of outdoor sports and activities. Macedonian sport climbers admire the beautiful and vivid rocks in the gorgeous canyon on Radika river.

Topo: http://www.climbing-macedonia.com/mavrovo1

access issues

Drive from Mavrovo- Mavrovi Anovi towards Debar, trough the canyon of Radika river. Follow the river, which is on your right side all the time, until the passing of the small bridge, which will switch the river side from your right to your left side. Right after the bridge, called Krivi Most, approx. 12 km from Mavrovi Anovi, on your left you will find a parking lot.

approach

Park deeply, close to the river as much as possible, so you can see your vehicle from the cave. Right across the parking, look up, and you will spot the great cave. The approach to the cave starts, across the road, next by the concrete drain, on your left side. Follow the steep trail, until you get to the foot of the cave, where a short via ferrata

where to stay

http://www.skihutgorica.com/

history

Back in 2012, Kire Serafimovski and Vladimir Trpovski discovered the great breathtaking cave, which is pure climbing heaven. Years after, the first sport climbing routes were established. In that time, climbers obtained the permits for climbing from the authorities of the National Park “Mavrovo”, collected funds for bolts and equipment, planning and etc. but the steel-made bolts prevailed and a new sport climbing crag was born. Everything began when Vladimir Trpovski, Dimitar Popov and Aleksandar Brborovic climbed the first routes in late May 2013. Now we can proudly say that Mavrovo offers great opportunities and potential for sport climbing. We are very grateful for the support and cooperation from the National Park “Mavrovo” as well to Zdravko Petrovski, the President of the Sport Climbing Club EXTREME –Skopje for their help in the realization of this very important project, Sport Climbing Crag-Mavrovo.

1.26.6. Ohrid 36 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.030643, 20.798162

1.26.7. Prespa 5 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.934955, 20.939255

access issues

Prespa is located in South Western Macedonia on the coast of Lake Prespa near the border of Albania. Stenje is a village on the coast of Lake Prespa about 50km from town Bitola. You can reach it from Ohrid lake trough mountain Galicica or from Bitola trough Resen, Otesevo and Stenje. You can park your vehicle after the village Stenje, next to last wood, which is on the path between a lake and green field. After 500m of waking you will come to the cliffs located on the beach of the lake.

1.26.8. Pelister 5 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.039995, 21.234924

description

Climbing in National park Pelister mainly is in tree climbing sectors.

1.26.9. Prilep 49 routes in Field

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Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.391206, 21.557368

description

The city of Prilep is surrounded by numerous hills that have vast granite boulder fields currently undeveloped. Most of the existing boulders have been listed on 27crags however this page will supplement that source. The existing fields in Kamena baba may be on private land so ensure you are responsible and respectful.

approach

10 minutes from the city center by car

1.26.10. Plocha 60 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.621588, 22.314743

summary

Plocha is one of the first and best arranged places in Macedonia for climbing. Suitable for climbing multipich routes and sport routes with grades from 3a to 8a. Within the place there are several boulders

description

Climbing locality Plocha is located in the south-eastern part of Macedonia along the highway Shtip - Radovish.

Plocha belongs to one of the best arranged climbing areas in the country with clearly marked access paths as well as fluorescent foils for easier orientation in the night hours.

The composition of the rock is Granite mixed with admixtures of basalt, in certain parts covered with moss which makes the routes very slippery after the rain and sometimes makes it impossible to climb.

The central rock is the largest and most suitable for climbing, with north-eastern exposure and the end parts with north exposure. The main crag is 70 to 90 meters high.

The central rock itself is naturally divided by two horizontal terraces which extend over the entire width of the rock. It offers excellent conditions for safe standing on the anchors.

Most of the routes are covered with bolts, and the traditional routes are left in the condition of the first climb, only the anchors are with bolts.

access issues

Plocha is located in the southeastern part of the Republic of Macedonia between the cities of Stip (23km) ans Radovish (13km) next to the highway M6. Plocha is 115 km away from Skopje. The closest access from Bulgaria is through the border crossing of Novo Selo, also from the other border crossings on the Macedonian-Bulgarian border. Approach from the Greece is closest to the border crossing of Dojran but you can also come from the border crossing of Bogorodica - Gevgelija.

where to stay

The climbing hut is located just below the main rock and has 12 beds in two rooms with solid kitchen and toilet. The lighting is with the help of solar panels. Next to the house there are two concrete places where you can light a fire or perform other outdoor activities. The routes are 5 to 15 minutes away from the hut through marked paths. The stay is with appointments and reservations.

1.27. Repubblika ta’ Malta 1,156 routes in Region

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1 2 3
1 Gozo 2 Comino 3 Malta
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 35.928907, 14.421488

summary

Malta has about 700 sport routes, and 1500 trad routes. The majority are seldom climbed and don't suffer 'polishing'. There are many deep water solo and sea cliff traversing routes.

description

The Maltese rock sequence is divided into five main layers of limestone. Each layer has a distinct composition, as well as distinct properties. The lower coralline limestone is the oldest, and lowest layer. It is hard, and climbable. Victoria Lines, Wied Il-Għasel (Mosta Valley), Irdum Irxaw (Mistra), Ghar Lapsi, Wied Babu, Wied il-Mielaħ, Wied ix-Xlendi are lower coralline limestone. The upper coralline limestone is the youngest, and topmost layer. It is also hard, and climbable. Il-Latnija (Mellieħa Cave) and San Blas (Gozo) are upper coralline limestone.

access issues

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

approach

Sport Climbing in Malta & Gozo (2013) is the most recent guidebook containing ONLY sport routes. An update is in production and will be published in 2020.

Malta Rock Climbing the comprehensive guide (2007) is currently out of print but CAN BE RENTED, and contains trad routes.

where to stay

English is fairly widely spoken in Malta, so finding accommodation is relatively easy, but not particularly cheap. If you will rely on public transport, then Pembroke, Bugibba, or Mosta are a good choice.

ethic

Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact either the Malta Climbing Club (UIAA affiliated) or the Malta Rock Climbing Club in Malta, or Stevie Haston in Gozo. All new routes are now being equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.

history

Fishermen and pirates have climbed these cliffs forever. The British forces in the 50's and 60's established a number of routes, mostly in Wied Babu, Xaqqa and Ghar Lapsi. Many new trad routes were set up in the 80s by visiting Brit climbers. Sport climbing took off in the 90s with many trad routes being retrobolted but also many new sport routes and crags being developed since then.

1.27.1. Gozo 291 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.047906, 14.252440

description

The smaller sister island of Malta, Gozo, differs in many ways from the main island. The climbing, however, is just as spectacular, from stunning sea cliffs to shady inland crags, all in perfect limestone.

approach

The island is reachable by ferry only. For further information regarding ferry times and fares, refer to http://www.gozochannel.com

ethic

Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact the GOZO CLIMBING ASSOCIATION in Gozo. All new routes are now being equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.

1.27.2. Comino 1 route in Crag

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Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 36.011634, 14.334454

description

The smallest island of the Maltese archipelago offers various trad climbing possibilities in gorgeous surroundings.

approach

Access to the island is by boat only. Ferries are commuting regularly from Malta and Gozo.

1.27.3. Malta 864 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 35.892399, 14.444293

summary

The main island of the Maltese archipelago

1.28. Moldova 30 routes in Region

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7 1 5 3 2 4 6
1 Văratic 2 Cobani / Кобань 3 Duruitoarea 4 Old Orhei 5 Socola 6 Chișinău 7 Verejeni
Summary:
Sport climbing, Top roping and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.207723, 28.457614

1.28.1. Văratic 9 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.914414, 27.280114

summary

https://kotelnikov.blog/en/moldova-varatic/

description

https://kotelnikov.blog/en/moldova-varatic/

approach

You can reach the rocks from the bridge in Văratic, or from Duruitoarea. In both cases you have to drive dirt road. After heavy rain it might be not possible to pass with normal car. The road, despite its quality, is very busy, as it makes it possible to shorten the distance when travelling between villages.

where to stay

You can find good spots for a tent placement on the map above. The only place with shadow is near the forest (1.5 km away in direction to Duruitoarea). As an alternative — you can stay at Duruita Camping in the village Duruitoarea (7 km), or at Casa Varatic (4 km).

history

In 2017 I was searching for rock climbing locations in Moldova by looking at satellite images of the country. I noticed this place. Together with Marina we came here by bicycles. We were impressed by the overhanging grottes here. In 2020 we bolted a highline and first sport climbing routes.

1.28.2. Cobani / Кобань 14 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 47.758552, 27.327066

summary

Easy climbing routes at the north of Moldova.

description

https://kotelnikov.blog/en/moldova-cobani/

One of the few places suitable for rock climbing in Moldova is Cobani. The village is located on the north of the country in Glodeni District. On the edge of the village there are toltres with the altitude of ~12 meters – Stînca Mare.

approach

The easiest way is to go by car from Chișinău or Bălți.

where to stay

Tents can be placed directly under and above the rocks.

history

Since the 80s, tourists and mountaineers from Bălți have been training in this region as well as in Butești. In 2006 the Mountaineering Club of RM held here the championship of RM in rock climbing.

In autumn 2017 I was in this place and was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the breed. In June 2018, me and a group of Chisinau enthusiasts bolted several sport climbing routes here.

1.28.3. Duruitoarea 0 routes in Crag

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summary

https://kotelnikov.blog/duruitoarea/

1.28.4. Old Orhei 6 routes in Area

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Summary:
Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 47.302691, 28.963958

1.28.5. Socola 1 route in Cliff

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Summary:
All Top roping

Lat / Long: 47.906537, 28.812509

1.28.6. Chișinău 0 routes in Crag

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1.28.7. Verejeni 0 routes in Field

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1.29. Montenegro 407 routes in Region

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10 3 4 2 5 11 1 7 17 13 12 16
1 Podgorica 2 Kučke planine 3 Durmitor 4 Komovi 5 Orjen 7 Boka Kotorska 10 Maglič - Bioč - Volujak 11 Prokletije 12 Budva 13 Lovcen 16 Menke bar 17 Tivat
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.715567, 19.249058

1.29.1. Podgorica 124 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.517595, 19.349064

description

Podgorica is a capital city of Montenegro, with around one hundred fifty thousand inhabitants. It is situated in the central part of the country, at the crossroads of several significant travel routes leading from the seaside to the continental part of the country. It has a good geographical position, between the coastal and mountainous belt. It has the sub-Mediterranean climate which is characterized by warm and dry summers and mild and rainy winters. It represents a good starting point for climbing activities in the crags in its surroundings, in the Morača Canyon, the Mrtvica Canyon, the Cijevna Canyon, the crag above Fundina, Ostroške grede, Kučke Mountains... .

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approach

Podgorica as a centre of the state is well-connected (in terms of transportation) with all towns in the Republic, bigger towns of the neighbourhing countries, and with European centres. International Airport Golubovci is located 12 kms away from the city, while the airport in Tivat is about 75 kms away. The Belgrade - Bar railway line runs through Podgorica: for more information on train timetable dial:+38281633663. For further information on bus lines dial: +38281620430. Best information on domestic and international flights can be found on the website of the Montenegrin airline: www.montenegro-airlines.cg.yu

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where to stay

There is a large number of hotels in the city, the list of which along with addresses and other information can be found on the website of the municipality of Podgorica www.podgorica.cg.yu. As there are no developed campgrounds in Podgorica and we know that outdoor sports enthusiasts are not the clients of the four and five star hotels, we can recommend the cheapest hotel in Podgorica, in the Smokovac suburb www.hotelizvor.cg.yu. We hope that things regarding the campsites in Podgorica will change soon.

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1.29.2. Kučke planine 21 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.597043, 19.546478

description

A group of mountains known by the common name Kučke mountains is stretching north-east of Podgorica. Its highest peak is Surdup Peak, with an altitude of 2184masl. There are 14 peaks with the elevation over 2000 metres. In this massif there are also two mountain lakes: Bukumirsko Lake and Rikavačko Lake. Bukumirsko Lake is situated in the northern massif of these mountains, about 45 kms north of Podgorica, that is to say some 40 kilometres south of Kolašin. The elevation of the valley in which the lake is located is 1300 to 1350 metres and the valley is home for several katuns inhabited in the period from June to September. Kučke Mountains have been discovered by the mountain lovers rather late. The beginnings of alpine ascents date back to the end of the nineties of the last century when the members of the Alpine Section of Belgrade climbed several first ascents.

How to Get There

The lake can be reached along several travel routes, the common characteristic of which is a very bad gravel road in the last kilometres. Podgorica-Kržanja-Kastrat-Bljuštura-Bukumirsko Lake - around 45 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Kastrat, further on gravel road for some 15 kilometres. Podgorica-Bioče-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - about 50 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Topli potok (few kilometres away from Veruša), further on the gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms. Kolašin-Mateševo-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - around 40 kms. Asphalt road from Kolašin to Topli potok, further on a gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms.

Buses run along the road Podgorica-Veruša, Podgorica-Kržanja and Kolašin-Mateševo, therefore in combinations bus-hike, the latter takes 8 to 15kms (usually with the loaded rucksack on your back). Bus regularly departs from Podgorica only in the morning term, afternoon departures and departures starting from Kolašin depend on incredibly large number of different factors, so relying on those is not exactly the smartest thing to do.

Accommodation

In the valley there are many places suitable for camping, all depending on season, camper's tiredness or the want to socialise, from katuns and their immediate surroundings, to the meadows between Torač Peak and Pasjak Peak. There are springs with drinkable water in a totally satisfactory number. Since there are no mountain huts or developed bivouacs, tents are necessary.

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1.29.3. Durmitor 38 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.130255, 19.073069

description

Mt Durmitor is one of the most interesting massifs in Montenegro. It belongs to the system of the Dinarides and is situated in the north-western area of Montenegro. The west face of Mt Durmitor is bounded by the Piva River Canyon, the northern and north-eastern part by the Tara River Canyon, the southern part by the Komarnica River Canyon, while to the east over the vast Jezerska visoravan (Lake Plateau) Mt Durmitor continues to the Mt Sinjajevina. On this mountain there are around 50 peaks with the elevation over 2000 meters above sea level, 18 glacial lakes, many glacial cirques, mountain passes, and a large number of rocks with a height of even up to 700 m. All this is concentrated in the small area which makes it one of the most attractive massifs in our country. Peaks and rocks of Mt Durmitor provide extraordinary conditions for rock and alpine climbing, both in summer and winter conditions. The climate of the Durmitor massif is very harsh, typically alpine. Summers are short and cool, while winters are long with heavy snowfalls. The largest settlement at the foot of Mt Durmitor is Žabljak. It is the centre of mountain tourism in Montenegro. The development of mountaineering and rock climbing on Mt Durmitor has a humble history, after all, as in all mountain areas in Montenegro. Mt Durmitor areas have relatively late discovered their beauties to the broader circle of mountain lovers. The more serious alpine ascents and traditional climbs were registered as late as in the 30s of the last century and were performed by alpinists from Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia... After the war alpinists have visited Mt Durmitor more intensively. At that time the mountaineering and rock climbing camps (at which certain rocks were systematically covered) were mostly organised. In the 50s Mt Durmitor was visited by alpinists from Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Poland. It was also a period in which the largest number of first ascents in the rocks of Mt Durmitor was performed. The crags are all limestone, but there are so many of them that it is really not hard to find the one which suits us with its solidness, difficulty and aesthetic. So far about some hundred routes have been climbed - some rock routes and some snow and mixed routes, but being scattered in various guidesbooks, clubs and organisations, data on those are pretty unavailable. For the largest number of routes in Mt Durmitoru which were climbed 40, 50 or more years ago, we have used the book „The Rocks of Yugoslavia" by the author Zlatko Smerke as a source. Routes in the rocks of Mt Durmitor peaks have been rarely repeated, so for the largest number of routes we have not been able to obtain additional information which would serve for comparison with the old route descriptions and the future climbers should bear this in mind.

How to Get There

If you're coming to Durmitor by car from the direction of the south, from the Adriatic coast main road over Podgorica (capital city), you can choose between two travel routes. One forks from Podgorica towards Nikšić, further on over Šavnik to Žabljak. The other travel route follows the major main road in the continental region which connects the north and the south. It runs from Podgorica toward Kolašin to Mojkovac, and from here it continues along the Tara River Canyon to Žabljak. Both travel routes in the winter months might be impassable due to the heavy snowfalls. If you are coming to Montenegro by plane, two international airports are available - in Podgorica, about 170 kms and Tivat about 250 kms far from Žabljak. Bus ticket from Podgorica to Žabljak costs about 7 to 8 euros and there are 2 to 3 departures a day.

Accommodation

In the Žabljak itself there are several hotels, motels and pensions as well as a large number of private houses offering lodging services. More regarding this you can find on the website of the local tourist organisation. Here we are going to highlight the accommodation facilities in the very mountain. In the area of Mt Durmitor there are two mountain huts, one bivouac, and one mountain shelter. Mountain hut near the Škrčka Lakes is situated at an altitude of 1723 masl. It has about 30 beds in shared rooms, a kitchen, and a dining room. It is open from mid-June to the end of September. The hut is the ownership of the Durmitor National Park. There is a possibility of pitching tents in the surroundings of the hut by paying an overnight camping fee, because the campground is located in the territory of the national park. Mountain hut in Sušica is open in the summer months. Pitching tents is possible there. On the official website of the Durmitor National Park we couldn't find data concerning the number of available beds in the hut in Sušica and regarding the lodging fees in these two mountain huts. Alpine bivouac is situated in the western part of Velika Karlica at an altitude of 2020 masl. It was built in 1973 by the Belgrade mountaineers and rock climbers. It can provide accommodation for 6 to 8 people. It is open all year round. There is no spring nearby. It has an exceptional location for performing ascents in the rocks of Savin Kuk Peak and Šljeme Peak. Approach starts from Black Lake (Crno jezero)- approximately 2.5 hour hike. Mountain shelter in Lokvice, at an elevation of about 1800 masl, is frequently visited mountain facility in Mt Durmitor, especially due to its location, because it is situated in the direction of the mountain trails starting from Žabljak. It can accommodate 6 to 8 people. The shelter is in a poor condition. It can be reached from Black Lake for about 1.5 hour of hiking. It is open throughout the year. There is a possibility of pitching tents nearby. At Lokvice, there is a small spring of drinkable water which is, however, covered with thick snow during the winter months so don't count on it too much.

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1.29.4. Komovi 37 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.761711, 19.622176

description

Mt Komovi is a rather large mountain range in the eastern part of Montenegro, almost along the very border with Albania. Mt Komovi massif stretches in the direction SW-NE in a length of around 7 kms. The highest areas consist of the two obvious ridges stretching almost parallel to each other. These two ridges are divided by the large stony Medjukomlje pass. The east ridge is Vasojevićki Kom Peak(2460 m), while in the west ridge there are two dominant peaks - Kučki Kom Summit, at the same time the highest point of this massif (2484), and Ljevorečki Kom Peak, also known by the name of Sjeverni vrh(the North Peak). Due to the poor quality of rocks Mt Komovi is primarily a winter climbing area. A large number of technically undemanding lines provide nice climbing in the good snow conditions. The most attractive route is still Dijadema (The Diadem), 3.5 kms, a continuous ridge traversing: Vasojevićki Kom-Bavani-Kučki Kom-Medjukom and Ljevorečki Kom. First traversing was performed in 1956, and the first and so far the only, winter repeat was performed in 1967. A 400-meter high west rock face of Vasojevićki Kom Peak, still unclimbed, can be especially attractive for climbing in the winter months. Approach to the base of this rock is from Štavna plateau in the direction of Medjukomlje - 1 hr.

How to get there

You can reach Komovi from the direction of Kolašin, Andrijevica and Podgorica. All access directions lead towards the Trešnjevik pass, on the road Kolašin-Andrijevica, from where it takes further few kilometres to the foot of the mountain. In Kolašin one should turn towards Mateševo, a small village 10 kms far from Kolašin. On the crossroads in Mateševo one should turn left and via Bare Kraljske, along a narrow bendy asphalt road through wonderful areas and beech forests reach the Trešnjevik pass (1570 m). Then by the pub turn right onto a solid road through the forest, further few kilometers to the Štavna plateau at the foot of the Vasojevićki Kom Peak, which is the best starting point for all mountain climbing/alpine climbing activities on Mt Komovi. If you are staying in Podgorica and want to visit Mt Komovi, but you want to avoid summer traffic jams in the Morača River Canyon, then from the main road in the Bioče village, 10 km from Podgorica, turn onto the travel route to Lijeva Rijeka and Veruša (narrow asphalt road with a million of bends; it is not recommended in the winter months) which will take you to Mateševo from where further on you should take the already described road. Note: last kilometres of the access directions to the Trešnjevik pass from Kolašin and Andrijevica are impassable every winter for several months. Also, one should be aware that not even one bus runs along the travel route Kolašin - Andrijevica.

Accommodation

There are several accommodation options at the Štavna plateau. During the summer months you can opt for camping, space can't lack or you can stay in eco-katun (eco-cottage summer settlement), a newly built accommodation facility with five-bed wooden cottages, and a restaurant. Rent of one five-bed wooden cottage costs 25 euros per day. Also, it is possible sleep over in the log cabin-shelter, which is owned by the Mountaineering Association Železničar. If you find yourself on Mt Komovi in the winter, besides the log cabin of Železničar, it is also possible to stay in one of the cottages in the katuns left unlocked by the owners during the winter months. In order to stay in the eco- katun during the winter months one is required to call and make a reservation in advance. At the Štavna plateau there are several springs with drinkable water.

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1.29.5. Orjen 22 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.537995, 18.583255

description

Mt Orjen massif is a part of the mountain range of the coastal mountains of Montenegro, and certainly its most interesting section as well. It occupies the south-western part of Montenegro. In terms of the area, it is the largest mountain massif on the Adriatic coast. It is situated at the junction of three boarders - of Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The main section of the massif comprises the groups of peaks situated in its central part which belongs to Montenegro. Mt Orjen is a constituent part of the system of the Dinarides, although it hasn't got the obvious spreading direction typical of the Dinarides. The highest peak of Mt Orjen, Zubački kabao, at the same time the highest peak of the coastal Dinarides, is 1894 metres high. More information on Mt Orjen, places to sleep, marked trails and speleo-objects you can find at www.subra.users.cg.yu Two perhaps the best rocks in Montenegro - Subra and Reovačka greda are situated on this mountain.

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1.29.6. Moračke planine & Maganik 0 routes in Region

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1.29.7. Boka Kotorska 42 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 42.479182, 18.767175

description

Boka Kotorska Bay is one of the most beautiful bays of the Mediterranean, in which there are old towns of Kotor, Perast and Herceg Novi with the rich cultural tradition, long history, preserved architecture, fortifications, churches, cathedrals, palaces, squares which remember centuries, and other significant sites attracting tourist for a long time. In recent years, Kotor has been increasingly visited by climbers as well. In 2005 the Austrian climbers equipped 15 short routes in three locations.

Rocks in the surroundings of the small fishermen's settlement called Orahovac which is located on the road Kotor-Risan are more attractive for traditional climbing owing to its excellent quality and a beautiful landscape which opens while you are several hundred meters above the sea. In the last two years about 15 new routes, mainly of the lesser difficulty grades, have been climbed. The best time for climbing is from autumn to late spring. The south rock face of the Pestingrad Peak, with the height of about 350-400 m, dominates the town of Kotor. There are no ascended routes on this rock!

How to Get There

You will surely encounter problems in order to get to certain climbing destinations in Montenegro. However, it's not the case with Kotor. As a tourist centre, it has a good traffic connections with its surroundings. It is located 5kms away from the Tivat International Airport. There are numerous bus lines from all regions of Montenegro, and in recent years, from Croatia as well running to Kotor. The nearest railway station is located in Bar, about 65 km away.

Accommodation.

As a tourist centre Kotor offers various forms of lodging. Best information on accommodation facilities in Kotor you can find at www.tokotor.com, the official website of the local tourist organisation.

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1.29.8. Hajla 0 routes in Region

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description

Mt Hajla is situated in the very east of Montenegro within the municipality of Rožaje. In the broader geographical sense Mt Hajla can be regarded as the part of the north-eastern Prokletije; it spreads along the boarder of Serbia (Kosovo and Metohia) and Montenegro, more precisely, it lies between the source of the Ibar River and Rugovska klisura(gorge) in Kosovo. The relief is characterised by numerous peaks with the elevation of over 2000masl, canyons and gorges of the mountain rivers, numerous and picturesque coniferous forests and mountain pastures. The highest peak of Mt Hajla, 2403masl, is situated at the bare rocky ridge. In terms of height and beauty, a prominent peak is Ahmica Peak(2271masl )as well. Mt Hajla, although one of the fairly high mountains in Montenegro, until the last few years hasn't been widely known and visited. Only with activation of mountaineering associations in Rožaje working on promotion of this gorgeous mountain, among other things, a mountain hut has been built, Hajla has become widely known and visited. On this mountain there are outstanding terrains for ski touring.

How to Get There and Accommodation

As the best starting point for a visit to this mountain we can recommend the town of Rožaje in the very east of Montenegro. Rožaje can be reached from the south, from the direction of Podgorica, along the main road towards Bijelo Polje, further on towards Berane where one should turn left to Rožaje. From Rožaje one should head towards the Bandžov katun at 1460 masl, where there is a mountain hut of the PAK Jelenčica(Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing Club). It is 9 kms away from Rožaje and in the summer it is possible to reach it by passenger car, too. Mountain hut Bandžov can be reached along the road Rožaje - Berane towards the west, after the suburb Suho polje to the first bridge (Dimiskin bridge) over the Ibar River, across the bridge to the left along the gravel road leading to the source of the Ibar River. When you reach the fifth bridge, you'll come across the information board Bandžov, across the bridge on the left. After a kilometre, on the left side you'll come across another small bridge over the stream flowing into the Ibar River, you'll cross it and continue further on to Bandžov. The hut is open all the time during the summer, while in the winter months you must inform them about your visit in advance. It has about thirty beds. There are electricity and water in the hut. It is possible to pitch tents here. Within the katun it is also possible to rent some of the privately owned wooden cottages or log cabins.

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1.29.9. Nikšić sa okolinom 0 routes in Region

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1.29.10. Maglič - Bioč - Volujak 0 routes in Region

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description

Mountan range comprising the mountains Maglić(2338), Bioč(2397) and Volujak(2336) stretches in the north-western part of Montenegro, making a natural border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the heart of these mountains in the north-west, at an elevation of about 1500masl Trnovačko Lake is located and it can be used as a base for many ascents in the surrounding rocks. In these mountains there are some of the highest rocks in Montenegro. These rocks were systematically covered at several rock&alpine climbing camps, run in the period from 1949 to 1956, when the largest number of routes was ascended as well. Unfortunately, since then, there are almost no data on rock&alpine climbing activity in these rocks. Within this group of mountains we are going to present Mt Trnovacki Durmitor, too, which is situated among these three massifs and represents a separate entity.

How to Get There

From the Montenegrin side, the best starting point for all climbs and tours in these mountains is the town of Plužine, about 140 kms away from Podgorica, and then one should continue further on towards the Mratinje village, the Stabna village and Trnovacko Lake. The road from the town of Plužine, which is located on the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča, leads to the Stabna village. When going from the direction of Nikšić, before the bus station in Plužine, one should turn left into the town. Then one should follow a wide street leading on one's left-hand side. Its extension is also a road leading past Pivsko Lake to the Stabna village along the Vrbnica River. The road is passable for all vehicles. Mratinje village can also be reached along the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča. From the direction of Nikšić one should go past Plužine, and continue along the main road leading along Pivsko Lake. When the dam is reached, one should cross it. At the very end of dam there is a tunnel in which the crossroads to the Mratinje village is located as well. One should enter the tunnel which is marked with a signpost and follow the road further on. You can't miss it. The big crags in the massif of Mt Bioč can be reached fastest from the valley of Mratinje. Trnovačko Lake can be reached from three directions. The two of these are in the Montenegrin territory and one is in the Bosnian territory and it is the easiest one. First starts from the Stabna village along the woody valley to Malo Stabansko Lake. From there a steeper ascent to the big lake follows. From the lake head rightwards uphill through the pass to Stabanjska tap. Further to the north along the slopes of Krvava brda(Bloody hills) into the Smrekovac valley where there is a spring. One should continue along the valley to Urdeni dolovi where there is a crossroads of the marked roads. One should follow the left road. Then the descent down the stony and scree-covered slopes follows. One reaches Jezerski klanac(Lake Gorge), from where the road goes along a little wood and steep scree to Trnovacko Lake. From Stabna village the road is a footpath. A long and gruelling approach. The other difficult approach goes from the Mratinje village towards Carev do (Tzar's Dale) from where the trail goes steeply downhill towards the lake. The third and the easiest approach to the lake is from the Bosnian side, Foča-Tjentište-Dragoš sedlo-Prijevor, from where one-hour hike leads you to the lake. A gravel road runs from Tjentište further on, and it is good and suitable for passenger cars.

Where to Sleep.

Bring your tents along. There are no mountain huts, shelters or bivouacs on these mountains-

Climbing season lasts from late spring to early autumn, but climbing is the best during the summer months, because most rocks have the western or northern orientation.

©

1.29.11. Prokletije 97 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.535761, 19.818369

1.29.12. Budva 5 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.255237, 18.885353

1.29.13. Lovcen 3 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.399053, 18.829169

1.29.14. Perazica do 0 routes in Area

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summary

Small bouldering area

1.29.15. Perazica 0 routes in Area

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summary

Small bouldering area

1.29.16. Menke bar 6 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.097870, 19.141756

1.29.17. Tivat 12 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.434503, 18.716589

1.30. Netherlands 1,081 routes in Region

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9 8 10 2 11 6 5 4 1 3 12 7
1 Zuid-Holland 2 Noord-Holland 3 Noord-Brabant 4 Gelderland 5 Utrecht 6 Overijssel 7 Limburg 8 Friesland 9 Groningen 10 Drenthe 11 Flevoland 12 Zeeland
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.203796, 5.289936

summary

No mountains, no rocks. Instead this country has climbing halls, artificial outdoor areas, and shady buildering areas.

description

The organisation for Dutch climbers is the NKBV

access issues

Be aware that climbing outside (buildering) in areas that are not explicitly "tolerated" or "designated" may be unwanted or illegal.

1.30.1. Zuid-Holland 315 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.978820, 4.393451

1.30.2. Noord-Holland 368 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 52.590936, 4.886414

1.30.3. Noord-Brabant 227 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.563196, 5.117928

1.30.4. Gelderland 14 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.028458, 5.843351

1.30.5. Utrecht 18 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.085575, 5.161446

1.30.6. Overijssel 48 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.400859, 6.457767

1.30.7. Limburg 59 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.119387, 5.950895

1.30.8. Friesland 1 route in Region

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Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.068055, 5.878535

1.30.9. Groningen 6 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.101917, 6.452548

1.30.10. Drenthe 0 routes in Region

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1.30.11. Flevoland 4 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.527352, 5.587765

summary

De Flevopolder is een groot poldergebied in de Nederlandse provincie Flevoland. Het grondgebied van de Flevopolder bestaat uit de polders Oostelijk Flevoland en Zuidelijk Flevoland tezamen. De Flevopolder is dus, in tegenstelling tot wat de naam doet vermoeden, niet een enkele polder. Het gehele gebied is door mensenhanden aangelegd en vormt zowel het zwaartepunt van de Zuiderzeewerken als van de huidige provincie Flevoland. De twee onderdelen zijn ingepolderd tussen 1950-1957 respectievelijk 1959-1968.

1.30.12. Zeeland 21 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.488326, 3.827200

1.31. Norway 21,472 routes in Region

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6 5 4 7 3 1 2
1 Eastern Norway 2 Southern Norway 3 Western Norway 4 Mid Norway 5 Northern Norway 6 Svalbard and Jan Mayen Islands 7 Faroe Islands
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 69.428946, 14.133930

1.31.1. Eastern Norway 6,981 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 60.726891, 9.989820

1.31.2. Southern Norway 1,746 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 58.791012, 7.756998

1.31.3. Western Norway 7,955 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 60.906980, 6.811561

1.31.4. Mid Norway 848 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 63.973048, 11.080867

description

A new guidebook "Trønder Rock" is available from 2011. Includes 9 new cliffs which were not described in the old guidebook.

1.31.5. Northern Norway 3,917 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 68.149998, 20.000629

1.31.6. Svalbard and Jan Mayen Islands 1 route in Region

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Summary:
All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 78.678269, 19.470593

1.31.7. Faroe Islands 24 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 61.977991, -6.845693

1.32. Poland 13,961 routes in Region

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7 9 8 6 2 4 1 3 5
1 Jura 2 Województwo Dolnośląskie 3 Beskidy 4 Województwo Świętokrzyskie 5 Tatry 6 Województwo Lubuskie 7 Województwo Zachodniopomorskie 8 Województwo Mazowieckie 9 Województwo Wielkopolskie
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.922177, 19.084628

1.32.1. Jura 9,937 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.341045, 19.608591

summary

Area located between Kraków and Częstochowa, on a distance of about 140 km. The biggest and most popular climbing area in Poland. Mostly sport climbing, over 10000 climbs.

description

Limestone crags of Jura are well protected, mainly with inox bolts. The most popular crags are: Rzędkowice, Podlesice, Podzamcze and valleys (called "Dolinki") located near Kraków. World's third 8b was climbed by Piotr Korczak in Mamutowa Cave in 1986. This famous route was first repeated after many years.

Sport climbing is very popular here, which can lead to some classic routes being rather polished and slippery

Guidebooks

Having a guidebook is essential since almost all of the routes don't have their name written on the rock. Jura is split in three parts - North, Central and South (Północna, Środkowa and Południowa). Each part has it's own guidebook available here . The guidebooks can be physically bought in few shops, list here.

There is a very good free online database with topos on Portal Gorski. It covers the whole Jura but some information is already outdated compared to the guidebooks.

Equipment needed

For majority of the routes, a 50m rope will be sufficient, but it's better to bring a 60m rop so that you can climb almost everything. Bring 15 quickdraws.

Route character

Majority is single pitch sport climbing, although there are few routes separated in two pitches. Routes are very well bolted and feel safe. You'll find one or two trad routes at almost every crag.

Bouldering exists in Jura as well, although it's nowhere near the popularity of sport climbing. There are no guidebooks available for bouldering, only information online.

approach

Fly to Kraków or Katowice, then by car or train. Most crags are generally easily accessible, 5-15 min from parking lot. Lots of regions are safe for children (flat grassy terrain).

where to stay

Lot of cheap rooms to rent (look for "agroturystyka").

ethic

Standard. Many rocks are on private areas near civilization - please respect the locals, don't play music and make loud noise.

history

Climbing around Kraków (in "Dolinki") began around 1907. North part of Jura was discovered for climbing after World War II.

1.32.2. Województwo Dolnośląskie 2,999 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.058912, 16.377136

1.32.3. Beskidy 629 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.472678, 20.787035

description

Beskid Mountains are Poland's largest area mountains. There are several small climbing areas.

1.32.4. Województwo Świętokrzyskie 189 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.879285, 20.570517

1.32.5. Tatry 137 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.303590, 19.990363

summary

Northern part of High Tatras geographically located in Poland.

One of the best online source of information:

https://drytooling.com.pl/baza/topo/tatry

description

Polish High Tatras are part of Carpathian arc with highest point being Rysy (2499m) on polish-slovakian border. The mountains are granite peaks, the rock is rather broken with exception of several compact faces that provided spectacular multi-pitch climbs in alpine environment and mostly with trad protection.

For protection, pitons, cams, nuts etc. are allowed.

access issues

The whole area is a national park (Tatrzański park narodowy)and visiting it follows strict regulations. In particular

  • you are not supposed to leave marked trails with exempt for climbers
  • you are not supposed to stay in the mountains in dark (no bivouacking)

approach

You arrive in the region either from nord - Cracow, Nowy Targ, Zakopane or from south - Poprad, Lysa Polana

There are three principal approaches

  • Zakopane - Kuźnice, 49.2695228N, 19.9811472E
  • Zakopane, 49.2872886N, 20.0356308E
  • Palenica Białczańska, 49.2552100N, 20.1032444E

Starting season 2021 you are adviced to reserve parking beforehands (https://tpn.pl/zwiedzaj/e-bilety), though it was still possible to negotiate on the spot.

where to stay

High in mountains there are three principal tourist huts that offer dormitories or rooms

  • Murowanies (https://murowaniec.com/)
  • Schronisko Gorskie PTTK w Dolinie Pieciu Stawow Polskich (https://piecstawow.pl/)
  • Schronisko PTTK Morskie Oko (https://schroniskomorskieoko.pl/pl)

All are usually booked well in advance.

ethic

Usual ethic of alpine climbing and mountaineering.

1.32.6. Województwo Lubuskie 46 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.168144, 15.445347

1.32.7. Województwo Zachodniopomorskie 24 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.655651, 15.497417

1.32.8. Województwo Mazowieckie 0 routes in Region

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1.32.9. Województwo Wielkopolskie 0 routes in Region

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1.33. Portugal 3,825 routes in Region

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1 2 3 5 4 6
1 North Portugal 2 Central Portugal 3 Lisbon Area 4 South Portugal 5 Azores 6 Madeira
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.383400, -18.849837

description

Location and topos of many areas in Portugal can be found here (click on map): http://climbingportugal.blogspot.com/

1.33.1. North Portugal 940 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.368431, -7.562522

1.33.2. Central Portugal 973 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.500623, -8.177811

1.33.3. Lisbon Area 1,496 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.921300, -9.096575

1.33.4. South Portugal 250 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.564736, -8.241878

1.33.5. Azores 10 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.837155, -27.891922

description

http://escalada-pico.blogspot.com/p/guia-escalada-ilha-do-pico.html

1.33.6. Madeira 156 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 32.752196, -16.925124

description

http://escalada.camadeira.com/locais-de-escalada/

http://climbingportugal.blogspot.com/search/label/Madeira

https://www.facebook.com/MadeiraClimbingCamp

https://www.facebook.com/groups/tradMadeira

https://www.facebook.com/montanhamaderira

https://www.summitpost.org/object_list.php?object_type=1&distance_1=100&distance_lat_1=32.73968&distance_lon_1=-16.94004&map_1=1&is_open=1

1.34. Romania 7,410 routes in Region

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1 3 2 5 7 6 4 9 8
1 Nord-Vest / North-West 2 Oriental Carpathians 3 Iași 4 Banat 5 Apuseni Mountains 6 South-West 7 Central Region 8 București 9 Dobrogea
Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.919964, 25.040950

description

Detailed topos and descriptions in English and Romanian: http://roclimbs.ro/EnDefault.aspx (the Romanian version of the site might contain more info)

Another info source (only in Romanian) is: http://eclimb.ro/

Another info source (Romanian/English) is: http://www.romaniaquest.com

1.34.1. Nord-Vest / North-West 114 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 47.493620, 23.290528

1.34.2. Oriental Carpathians 1,172 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.767397, 25.995910

1.34.3. Iași 24 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.138908, 27.605283

1.34.4. Banat 105 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.347282, 21.749841

1.34.5. Apuseni Mountains 2,124 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.516864, 22.694068

1.34.6. South-West 1,662 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.291089, 23.277478

description

http://www.romaniaquest.com/climbing/topo/Romania/Sud---Vest

1.34.7. Central Region 2,033 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.410734, 25.211238

description

guidebook: "Rock Climbing in Romania - A Climbing Guide of Brasov Crags" http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/A-Climbing-guide-of-Brasov-crags.html

1.34.8. București 0 routes in Area

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1.34.9. Dobrogea 176 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.906801, 28.377528

1.35. Russia 3,418 routes in Region

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21 19 20 4 2 14 7 1 10 16 9 17 5 12 11 6 13 15 3 8 18
1 Moscow 2 St. Petersburg/Karelia 3 Krasnodar 4 Krasnoyarskiy krai 5 Bashkortostan 6 Volgogradskaya oblast 7 Irkutskaya oblast 8 Kabardino-Balkaria 9 Kemerovskaya oblast' 10 Novosibirskaya oblast' 11 Altay 12 Lipetskaya oblast' 13 Rostovskaya oblast 14 Sverdlovskaya oblast 15 Stavropolskaya oblast 16 Habarovskaya oblast 17 Chelyabinskaya oblast 18 Severnaya Osetija 19 Chukotka Autonomous Okrug 20 Yakutia 21 Улахаl
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 63.451860, 106.619224

description

You can find nice topos on https://allclimb.com/en/

1.35.1. Moscow 0 routes in Region

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1.35.2. St. Petersburg/Karelia 1,622 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 62.396317, 32.970383

1.35.3. Krasnodar 445 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.753668, 39.351548

1.35.4. Krasnoyarskiy krai 237 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 65.902279, 95.257272

1.35.5. Bashkortostan 27 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.969547, 55.786457

1.35.6. Volgogradskaya oblast 0 routes in Region

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1.35.7. Irkutskaya oblast 54 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 58.019206, 108.934701

1.35.8. Kabardino-Balkaria 29 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Top roping and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.554402, 43.506663

1.35.9. Kemerovskaya oblast' 116 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 54.772304, 87.220282

1.35.10. Novosibirskaya oblast' 21 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 55.291118, 79.755504

1.35.11. Altay 263 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.996958, 86.239344

1.35.12. Lipetskaya oblast' 25 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.625463, 39.175156

1.35.13. Rostovskaya oblast 52 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.775506, 41.254482

1.35.14. Sverdlovskaya oblast 12 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 58.662198, 61.551371

summary

Approximately 900 routes in this region, and the biggest areas are Kourovka - 105, Aramashevo - 72, Severka - 147, Chertovo - 103 routes

1.35.15. Stavropolskaya oblast 242 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.912832, 43.259546

1.35.16. Habarovskaya oblast 0 routes in Region

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1.35.17. Chelyabinskaya oblast 108 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 54.690234, 60.049394

1.35.18. Severnaya Osetija 131 routes in Area

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.201980, 44.346367

1.35.19. Chukotka Autonomous Okrug 12 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 66.453113, 169.919404

1.35.20. Yakutia 22 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 66.648877, 129.962725

1.35.21. Улахаl 0 routes in Crag

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description

https://www.redbull.com/int-en/videos/terra-incognita-the-documentary?fbclid=IwAR26EkLTx-YY6PIloc55I9a0Tc3R-Y7hYMPfVjJTCCKL5GCOGyzERr5r3QU

https://siberiantimes.com/other/others/features/f0245-unmasked-a-new-natural-wonder-of-the-world-not-yet-on-any-tourist-trail/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVHrptfQVMY

https://www.rgo.ru/ru/video/150317-s-karpuhin-granitnye-goroda-ulahan-sis

http://db-sandsteinklettern.gipfelbuch.de/gebiet.php?gebietid=134

1.36. Serbia 1,701 routes in Region

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12 11 1 3 2 4 17 23 19 15 7 5 20 22 25 16 24 21 18 8 10 6 9 14 13
1 Beograd 2 Dubočka pećina, Duboka 3 Golubac 4 Gornjačka klisura 5 Kanjon Resave, Beljanica 6 Krnjača, Priboj 7 Manastir Manasija, Despotovac 8 Mučanj, Ivanjica 9 Niš 10 Niševac, Svrljig 11 Orlovo Bojište, Fruška Gora 12 Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Novi Sad 13 Pirot 14 Prijepolje 15 Rajac 16 Rčanska pećina, Guča 17 Soko Grad, Ljubovija 18 Soko Grad, Sokobanja 19 Stol, Bor 20 Tara 21 Tupižnica 22 Užice 23 Valjevo 24 Vrmdža 25 Zaječar
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.155248, 20.891567

1.36.1. Beograd 54 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.771798, 20.438441

1.36.2. Dubočka pećina, Duboka 17 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.551122, 21.766413

1.36.3. Golubac 5 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.660048, 21.673447

1.36.4. Gornjačka klisura 69 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.277909, 21.530306

summary

ENG

One of the oldest climbing areas in Serbia with lots of easy climbs.

SRB

Jedno od najstarijih penjališta u Srbiji sa obiljem lakih smerova.

description

ENG

More info about the crag is available here: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/gornjacka-klisura/

SRB

Više informacija možete naći na sledećem linku: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/gornjacka-klisura/

approach

ENG

Using a car, from Belgrade you'll need a little less than 2 hours to get to Gornjak gorge (some ~130 km). First part of the road is on E75 highway for some 60 km. Exit from highway to Požarevac and continue using regional roads for another 55 km towards Petrovac city. From there, continue towards Gornjak gorge for another 15 km (to the first parking space, right across the "Kod Rajka" restaurant).

Google Maps location: (44.275460, 21.523916)

There are several designated parking spots in the gorge. Read more about recommended parking spot in the particular sector description.

SRB

Kolima od Beograda je potrebno nešto manje od 2 sata puta do Gornjačke klisure (nekih ~130 km). Putuje se E75 autoputem nekih 60 km do izlaza za Požarevac. Odatle još 55 km magistralnim putevima do Petrovca na Mlavi. Odatle još 15 km do Gornjačke klisure (prvog parkinga kod restorana "Kod Rajka").

Google Maps lokacija: (44.275460, 21.523916)

Postoji nekoliko parking lokacija u klisuri. Pogledajte opis konkretnog sektora za više informacija o preporučenoj parking lokaciji.

1.36.5. Kanjon Resave, Beljanica 175 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.082394, 21.670994

summary

ENG

Awesome limestone crag with variety of styles and grades. Great summer destination.

SRB

Izuzetno penjalište sa smerovima najrazličitijih profila i težina. Odlična letnja destinacija.

description

ENG

More info about the crag is available here: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/kanjon-resave/

SRB

Više informacija možete naći na sledećem linku: https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/kanjon-resave/

approach

ENG

Using a car, from Belgrade you'll need a little over 2 hours to get to Beljanica crag (some ~150 km). Majority of the road is E75 highway (~100 km). Exit from highway at Markovac and continue using regional roads for another 50 km to Strmosten village.

Google Maps location: (44.087709, 21.647379)

You can park anywhere where there's a road widening. It's best to park near the sector you want to climb on.

SRB

Kolima od Beograda je potrebno nešto više od 2 sata puta do Beljanice (Strmostena, nekih ~150 km). Putuje se E75 autoputem nekih 100 km do izlaza za Markovac. Odatle još 50 km magistralnim putevima do Strmostena.

Google Maps lokacija: (44.087709, 21.647379)

Možete parkirati bilo gde pored puta (gde je put proširen). Najbolje je parkirati u blizini sektora koji želite posetiti.

1.36.6. Krnjača, Priboj 101 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.432672, 19.407849

1.36.7. Manastir Manasija, Despotovac 6 routes in Cliff

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.100663, 21.463451

approach

The climbing area is just outside of Despotovac city, towards the monastery Manasija, on the left side of the road. There is a designated paring area just before the monastery, on the right side of the road. Walk back 100 meters, the climbing area is on the other side of the road.

history

-

1.36.8. Mučanj, Ivanjica 34 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.542965, 19.997935

1.36.9. Niš 279 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.343028, 21.936318

1.36.10. Niševac, Svrljig 95 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.465107, 22.104056

description

ENG

More information about this area can be found here (available in English too):

https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/nisevac-svrljig/

SRB

Više informacija o ovoj lokaciji možete naći na sledećem linku:

https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/nisevac-svrljig/

approach

ENG

From Belgrade, by car, you'll need a little less than 3 hours to get to Niševac village (some 260 km). Go by E75 highway towards Niš for some 240 km. Take the exit towards Malča and follow the road signs towards Svrljig for another 17 km. Continue towards Niševac village for some 7 km.

(43.461769, 22.102856) You can park at the end of a dirt road that goes on the left side of the local elementary school.

SRB

Kolima od Beograda je potrebno nešto manje od 3 sata puta do sela Niševac (nekih 260 km). Putuje se E75 autoputem nekih 240 km do izlaza za Malču (posle Niša, autoput ka Sofiji). Pratite putokaze ka Svrljigu još nekih 17 km. Iz Svrljiga idite ka selu Niševac nekih 7 km.

(43.461769, 22.102856) Možete parkirati na kraju zemljanog puta koji vodi sa leve strane osnovne škole.

where to stay

ENG

Either stay in the nearby town of Svrljig or further in Niška Banja or Niš. Use booking.com to find accommodation.

Accommodation is also possible in Niševac village, but that requires asking locals for renting a room.

Another option is camping near the river (Timok).

SRB

Prenoćište je moguće u obližnjem Svrljigu ili dalje u Niškoj Banji ili Nišu. Koristite booking.com za traženje smeštaja.

Moguće je i prenoćište u Niševcu, ali je potrebno raspitati se kod lokalaca ko želi da iznajmi sobu.

Takođe je moguće kampovanje pored lokalne reke Timok.

1.36.11. Orlovo Bojište, Fruška Gora 7 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.180508, 19.830623

1.36.12. Petrovaradinska tvrđava, Novi Sad 5 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.251575, 19.861174

1.36.13. Pirot 35 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.199177, 22.635599

1.36.14. Prijepolje 122 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.311709, 19.637262

where to stay

Sleeping in tents near the climb. Sleeping in the mountain cabin. Sleeping in Vacation Rentals in Sopotnica.

1.36.15. Rajac 49 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.173048, 20.210165

1.36.16. Rčanska pećina, Guča 28 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.732149, 20.241997

1.36.17. Soko Grad, Ljubovija 84 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.269247, 19.430551

summary

Climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging limestone next to a huge monastery. Due to tree shade and orientation climbing is best in summer. Some of the routes stay wet after rain.

approach

By road about 170 km from Valjevo. When you arrive in Ljubovija, take the main road to go to Mali Zvornik. After 10km you will see the turn off for the Monastery of St. Nikolaj Velimirović. After follow the way to the monastery where there is a large parking lot.

where to stay

Sleeping in tents near the monastery (please behave accordingly). Accommodation in the guest house of the monastery. Rooms are at a price of 600 dinars per night and double rooms - bed 1200 RSD per person. Just outside monastery are toilets and water to drink.

1.36.18. Soko Grad, Sokobanja 6 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.634493, 21.893217

description

More info about the crag can be obtained here https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/sokobanja/soko-grad/

1.36.19. Stol, Bor 72 routes in Crag

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.176289, 22.131565

summary

ENG

Many sport, multi-pitch and trad routes and one of the nicest climbing places in eastern Serbia.

SRB

Obilje sportskih, multi-pitch i trad smerova i jedno od najlepših penjališta Srbije.

description

ENG

Stol mountain contains many sport, multi-pitch and trad routes and it is one of the nicest climbing places in the eastern part of Serbia.

The best months for climbing sport routes are from April until mid October (or even later, until it snows), because the sport routes are in the woods and can be climbed during hot summer days. The best months for multi-pitch and trad routes are from April until June and from late August until mid October, beginning of November, again, depending on the weather and if there is snow.

Rock is solid quality, white limestone. There are more than 60 sport routes, grades ranging from 4c to 8a+ and more than 30 multi-pitch/trad routes with grades ranging from I to VIII.

More information about sport routes can be found here (available in English too):

https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/borski-stol/

SRB

Planina Stol poseduje obilje sportskih, multi-pitch i trad smerova i jedno je od najlepših penjališta istočne Srbije.

Najbolji period za penjanje sportskih smerova je od aprila pa do sredine oktobra (a i kasnije, zavisno od vremena) jer su sportski smerovi sakriveni gustom šumom pa su konstantno u hladu. Najbolji period za penjanje multi-pitch i trad smerova je od aprila do juna i od kraja avgusta do sredine oktovra (a i kasnije, zavisno od vremena).

Stena je kvalitetni beli krečnjak. Penjalište ima preko 60 sportski smerova, ocena od 4c pa do 8a+ i više od 30 multi-pitch i trad smerova ocena od I do VIII.

Više informacija o sportskim smerovima možete naći na sledećem linku:

https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/borski-stol/

approach

ENG

From Belgrade, by car, you'll need a bit over 3 hours to get to Stol mountain (some 260 km). Go by E75 highway towards Niš for some 150 km. Take the exit towards Paraćin and follow the road signs towards Bor for another 80 km. Continue towards the village of Veliki Krivelj for some 10 km. Upon reaching the village, on the center crossroad, turn right and on the next turn, turn left and follow the road towards the village of Gornjane. After 7 km, at the crossroad, go right towards the vilage of Bučje. After 800 meters (44.167398, 22.113761) go sharp left, uphill for some 2.5 km. This roads leads directly to Stol mountain hut.

(44.173059, 22.123543) You can park near the mountain hut "Stol" or anywhere in the vicinity.

SRB

Kolima od Beograda je potrebno nešto više od 3 sata puta do Stola (nekih 260 km). Putuje se E75 autoputem nekih 150 km do izlaza za Paraćin. Pratite putokaze ka Boru još nekih 80 km. Iz Bora idite ka selu Veliki Krivelj nekih 10 km. Kada dođete do sela, na glavnoj raskrsnici skrenite desno pa onda na seldećoj raskrsnici levo ka selu Gornjane. Posle 7 km, na raskrsnici, skrenite desno ka selu Bučje. Posle samo 800 metara (44.167398, 22.113761) skrenite oštro levo uzbrdo. Posle 2.5 km doći ćete do planinarskog doma "Stol".

(44.173059, 22.123543) Možete parkirati pored planinarskog doma "Stol" ili bilo gde u okruženju.

where to stay

ENG

The stay can be in the mountain hut "Stol", price is approximately 500 RSD (4-5 EUR) per night.

There's also a private accommodation right beside the mountain hut. More info on their Facebook page.

Another option is to camp, plenty of space anywhere on the surrounding fields.

SRB

Smeštaj je dostupan u lokalnom planinarskom domu "Stol". Cena prenoćišta je oko 500 RSD.

Postoji i privatni smeštaj nedaleko od doma. Više informacija na njihovoj Facebook stranici.

Kampovanje je moguće bilo gde u okolini, niko ne pravi problem.

1.36.20. Tara 18 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.910606, 19.558866

1.36.21. Tupižnica 66 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.703645, 22.152975

1.36.22. Užice 83 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.852197, 19.823538

1.36.23. Valjevo 153 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.270966, 19.818988

1.36.24. Vrmdža 120 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.713187, 21.810072

access issues

https://serbianclimbing.com/penjalista/prirodna/sokobanja/vrmdza/

1.36.25. Zaječar 18 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.785035, 22.313267

1.37. Slovakia 10,284 routes in Region

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25 10 22 3 11 18 20 9 5 21 14 19 17 15 24 7 13 8 4 16 2 6 12 23 1
1 Bratislava a okolie 2 Záhorie 3 Biele Karpaty 4 Považský Inovec 5 Strážovské vrchy 6 Ponitrie 7 Kremnické vrchy 8 Vtáčnik 9 Veľká Fatra 10 Malá Fatra 11 Chočské vrchy 12 Štiavnické vrchy 13 Poľana 14 Slovenský raj 15 Muránská planina 16 Slovenský kras 17 Volovské vrchy 18 Branisko 19 Slanské vrchy 20 Skalky v okolí Humenného 21 Nízke Tatry 22 Tatry 23 Veľký Krtíš 24 Volovské vrchy 2 25 Baterka
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.685685, 19.696261

ethic

Slovenský horolezecký spolok JAMES List of climbing areas in Slovakia, restrictions, rock administrators

1.37.1. Bratislava a okolie 324 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.251798, 17.191155

1.37.2. Záhorie 1,855 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.559895, 17.278041

description

Guidebook: http://james.sk/articles.asp?pageid=10&id_dependency=10618

1.37.3. Biele Karpaty 55 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.048286, 18.089279

1.37.4. Považský Inovec 177 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.687218, 18.095553

1.37.5. Strážovské vrchy 1,782 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.952230, 18.276982

1.37.6. Ponitrie 365 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.392146, 18.198783

1.37.7. Kremnické vrchy 58 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.704427, 18.978175

1.37.8. Vtáčnik 769 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 48.644141, 18.688885

description

Vtáčnik - Wikipedia (Slovak)

1.37.9. Veľká Fatra 606 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.964706, 19.042468

1.37.10. Malá Fatra 571 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.236096, 18.827475

1.37.11. Chočské vrchy 199 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.163832, 19.366145

1.37.12. Štiavnické vrchy 401 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.413413, 18.785072

1.37.13. Poľana 657 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.688893, 19.282688

1.37.14. Slovenský raj 409 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.931544, 20.589085

1.37.15. Muránská planina 165 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.711041, 19.945125

1.37.16. Slovenský kras 318 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.630383, 20.821685

1.37.17. Volovské vrchy 234 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.819824, 21.093379

1.37.18. Branisko 0 routes in Region

List view

1.37.19. Slanské vrchy 115 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.928820, 21.468435

1.37.20. Skalky v okolí Humenného 24 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.026374, 21.991308

1.37.21. Nízke Tatry 516 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.959660, 19.777608

1.37.22. Tatry 604 routes in Region

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Summary:
Alpine climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.181105, 19.948396

description

-

1.37.23. Veľký Krtíš 42 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 48.246736, 19.247138

1.37.24. Volovské vrchy 2 0 routes in Region

List view

1.37.25. Baterka 22 routes in Field

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Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.341986, 20.671949

1.37.26. Mažiar Jasličky 9 routes in Boulder

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Summary:
All Bouldering

1.37.27. Pustá Ves 7 routes in Field

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Summary:
All Bouldering

1.38. Slovenia 4,513 routes in Region

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2 1 17 3 8 4 7 12 10 11 9 5 14 15 16 6 13
1 Labotniške Alpe 2 Gore vzhod Mura 3 Karavanke + Pohorje 4 Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe 5 Julijske Alpe 6 Dinarsko gorstvo 7 Zalec 8 Puščavnikove skale 9 Trbovlje & Hrastnik 10 Zagorje ob Savi 11 Domzale 12 Celje 13 Koper 14 Ljubljana 15 Dolenjska 16 Ribnica 17 Urbasova skala
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.773816, 14.974643

1.38.1. Labotniške Alpe 15 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.930366, 14.996618

1.38.2. Gore vzhod Mura 0 routes in Region

List view

1.38.3. Karavanke + Pohorje 262 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.455881, 14.818680

1.38.4. Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe 158 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.306023, 14.623027

description

AVE 60

1.38.5. Julijske Alpe 1,875 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.108565, 13.817438

description

AVE 58

1.38.6. Dinarsko gorstvo 98 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.670137, 14.247009

1.38.7. Zalec 697 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.254546, 15.071116

1.38.8. Puščavnikove skale 15 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.356092, 15.021656

1.38.9. Trbovlje & Hrastnik 43 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.137672, 15.085214

1.38.10. Zagorje ob Savi 65 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.148549, 14.935224

1.38.11. Domzale 23 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.154602, 14.691517

1.38.12. Celje 8 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.204890, 15.465339

1.38.13. Koper 793 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.514424, 13.836513

1.38.14. Ljubljana 295 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.984027, 14.552594

1.38.15. Dolenjska 54 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.817565, 15.095940

1.38.16. Ribnica 85 routes in Region

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.709735, 14.672242

1.38.17. Urbasova skala 27 routes in Crag

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Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.466363, 13.970264

1.39. Spain 77,959 routes in Region

List view
7 8 9 6 11 10 1 13 4 5 12 17 2 14 3 15 16
1 Catalunya 2 Comunidad Valenciana 3 Murcia 4 Castile and León 5 Madrid 6 Galicia 7 Asturias 8 Cantabria 9 País Vasco 10 La Rioja 11 Navarra 12 Castilla–La Mancha 13 Aragon 14 Extremadura 15 Andalusia 16 Islas Canarias 17 Islas Baleares
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 35.700743, -6.813463

1.39.1. Catalunya 21,461 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.683850, 1.989917

1.39.2. Comunidad Valenciana 14,033 routes in Region

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Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.273944, -0.403442

ethic

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
  • No instala toprope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
  • Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
  • No dejes papel higiénico.
  • Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
  • Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).

1.39.3. Murcia 635 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.038600, -1.362079

1.39.4. Castile and León 3,286 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 40.795738, -4.425987

1.39.5. Madrid 3,998 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 40.538560, -3.814285

1.39.6. Galicia 316 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.860104, -8.109478

1.39.7. Asturias 1,424 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.388069, -5.799782

1.39.8. Cantabria 566 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.282187, -4.014052

1.39.9. País Vasco 1,508 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.995834, -2.587739

access issues

Temporary and full-time access restriction see:

Bizkaia:

http://www.bizkaia.eus/home2/Archivos/DPTO9/Temas/Pdf/Otras_Zonas_de_Bizkaia.pdf?idioma=EU&bnetmobile=0

Gipuzkoa:

https://www.gmf.eus/Eskalada-jasangarria/lang/cast/

1.39.10. La Rioja 264 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.290219, -2.403858

1.39.11. Navarra 1,040 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.666652, -1.645188

1.39.12. Castilla–La Mancha 1,943 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.676153, -3.161984

1.39.13. Aragon 9,939 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.411057, -0.700520

ethic

  • La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie tus zapatos de la suciedad con el fin de evitar asideros y pasos pulidos.
  • No instale top-rope directamente a través de anclaje o anillos - usa tu propio material en su lugar.
  • Limpia las marcas de tiza con un cepillo.
  • No dejes papel higiénico.
  • Recoge la basura - también las colillas de cigarrillos.
  • Aparcar con consideración (los tractores deben poder pasar también el fin de semana).

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).

1.39.14. Extremadura 108 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.195197, -6.147962

1.39.15. Andalusia 7,459 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 37.340062, -4.492150

1.39.16. Islas Canarias 6,738 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 28.480186, -15.725005

1.39.17. Islas Baleares 3,241 routes in Region

List view
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.413243, 2.753270

1.40. Sweden 19,053 routes in Region

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1 2 3 4 22 6 5 23 8 7 11 10 9 16 12 13 18 17 24 14 15 19 21 20
1 Lapland 2 Norra kustlandet 3 Jämtland 4 Sundsvall 5 Dalarna 6 Gävle 7 Uppsala 8 Västmanland 9 Södermanland 10 Stockholm 11 Örebro 12 Skaraborg 13 Östergötland 14 Gotland 15 Jönköping 16 Bohuslän 17 Göteborg 18 Borås 19 Halland 20 Skåne 21 Blekinge 22 Hälsingland 23 Värmland 24 Kalmar
Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 62.062119, 17.446308

description

Climbing with different characteristics and quality spread around the country. With some exceptions mainly single pitch and bouldering on granite. Areas worth to check out if visiting is Bohuslän, Västervik, Göteborg.

Overview of Swedish climbing areas: http://www.sverigeforaren.se

https://nicemd.github.io/Sverigeforaren/

access issues

Please used designated parking areas. Check Sweden climbing association access database: https://access.klatterforbundet.se/

1.40.1. Lapland 108 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering, Ice climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 66.778993, 18.960101

summary

Kiruna klatreklubb has a brief summary

https://www.kirunaklatterklubb.se/Verksamhet/utomhusklattring/

1.40.2. Norra kustlandet 725 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 64.679976, 20.455071

summary

Nothern coast

description

North coast guidebook: Guidebook (Info and webshop) http://borrbult.blogspot.com/p/webshop.html

1.40.3. Jämtland 480 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 63.137947, 14.187817

1.40.4. Sundsvall 283 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 62.332781, 16.732058

description

http://www.sundsvallsklatterklubb.se/

1.40.5. Dalarna 281 routes in Region

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Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 61.071289, 14.463520

description

Dalarna climbing club: http://www.dalarnasklatterklubb.se/

Climbing map Dalarna: http://www.dalarnasklatterklubb.se/p/klattring-i-dalarna.html

1.40.6. Gävle 16 routes in Region

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Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 60.604165, 17.057030

1.40.7. Uppsala 438 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 59.769700, 17.424533

1.40.8. Västmanland 55 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 59.800756, 16.206143

1.40.9. Södermanland 423 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 59.061616, 16.733918

description

Printed guidebook: https://dangerzone.se/en/guidebocker/climbing-in-the-malaren-valley/

1.40.10. Stockholm 4,019 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 59.258886, 18.006027

description

Stockholm has around 150 documented cliffs with a height between 10-40 meters. All in all here is more than 2 500 routes on these cliffs. The city and its neighbouring archipelago makes some of the climbing very beautiful, especially summer time when you can climb almost 24h a day.

Links:

1.40.11. Örebro 66 routes in Region

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Summary:
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 59.377344, 14.765171

1.40.12. Skaraborg 53 routes in Area

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Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 58.446106, 13.617541

1.40.13. Östergötland 943 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 58.338369, 15.752591

1.40.14. Gotland 48 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.552988, 18.578793

1.40.15. Jönköping 64 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 57.493214, 14.372427

1.40.16. Bohuslän 2,926 routes in Region

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Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 58.624438, 11.909714

description

Bohusläns climbing club: https://www.bohuskk.se/

Crackoholic 90 min film about the climbing history of Bohuslän by Jonas Paulsson and Mikael Widerberg

access issues

General sensitive access situation. In some cases very sensitive.

Bohuslän climbing club 2020-08 access situation post (Swedish): https://www.bohuskk.se/HEM/Nyheter/hostmoteochklattertraning/vadkanjaggoraforaccessen/

Summary: - Avoid camping and make fires close to climbing crags and swim spots. - Use camp sites. - Avoid sleep in your car / van close to climbing crags and swim spots. - Check latest access info. - Car share. Parking is an issue at many crags. - Keep low profile.

where to stay

Bohuslän climbing club cabin:

http://www.bohuskk.se/BOENDE/Klubbstugan

Camping run by the farm just next to the crag Häller.

https://www.hallerklattercamping.se/en/

Villa Bro. Lodge in brodalen.

https://www.villabro.se/

1.40.17. Göteborg 3,981 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 57.674821, 12.087579

1.40.18. Borås 312 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 57.693988, 12.966160

1.40.19. Halland 92 routes in Region

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Summary:
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 56.881654, 12.891311

1.40.20. Skåne 2,021 routes in Region

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Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.883883, 13.527574

1.40.21. Blekinge 147 routes in Region