Routes in Europe for selected grade

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Initially graded 8C by Klem Loskot, upgraded to 8C(+) after foodhold broke by Nicolai Uznik in 2023. Source: www.kletterblock.de

Převis je okolo 8B a pak bez odpočinku do dost nepříjemnýho 7C+, klasa odhadem. Více info:

https://stepanstranik.blogspot.com/2023/10/skaly-v-udoli-cerne.html

#sd Nástup jako 'Styx' SD, držet se vpravo a dolez cestou 'Lístek na věčnost'. 9 brutálních kroků bez zastavení.

Bulbasaur is a combination of Charizard but climbed backwards and exits via Fénixovy Slzy.

#sd SD, Start jako 'Zdenina cesta', traverz doleva a dolez jako 'Kosovo' vysoko do velké police.

One of the hardest boulder in Czech Republic.

Start jako 'Brutus', dolez cestou 'Ghost Rider'. Celkem 25 těžkých kroků. Do cesty 'Ghost Rider' se přidá 8A+.

It links “Brutus”, an 8A+ (Brutus exits left into relatively easy terrain) into the start of Ghost Rider, providing a lower start into Ghost Rider. The boulder problem is long, it has 25 hard moves and according to Adam Ondra could also be graded as hard 9b sport route.

Adam Ondra #68: Brutal Rider 8C+ / Czechia's Hardest Boulderproblem

A linkup of 2 boulders.

First 8C+ in the world.

Z madla pod cestou 'Kudlanka' ze sedu (nastupuje zde 'Špička ledovce' i 'Pata ledovce'), traverz doleva do spáry, konec v hrotu stejně jako 'Euro 2000' a další, ve spádnici druhého jištění cesty 'Hradní spára'.

Start jako 'Špička ledovce', v klíčovém místě doprava do nástupu 'Indirectly Direct' a tím nahoru.

Kombinace síly v prstů, stisků, komprese a těžké paty.

Start ve V jako 'Sněžné jaro', pak cestou 'Drift' v protisměru do 'Leda kosti'.

Adam Ondra #63: Iceberg 8C

Spojení 'Špička ledovce' a 'Patička ledovce'. V podstatě 'Kudlanka' ze sedu, konec v jasném madle u první.

Spojení cesty 'Blatanta' a 'Kra'. Takže začíná z kolene vlevo od nástupu cesty 'Němá barikáda', pár kroků nahoru a doleva do madla cesty 'Kudlanka'.

Spojení 8B 4 kroků, 4 kroků 7B+ a 11 kroků 8B.

Initially graded 8C by Adam Ondra, upgraded to 8C/C+ by Martin Stráník.

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This problem is still awaiting grade concensus.

Second ascent by Ryohei Kameyama, March 2019 proposed grade V16/V17 - 8C+/9A

Nicolas Pelorson proposed only 8C or V15

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#sitstart #prow #slopers

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Hypothèse with a sit start.

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This grade has been proposed by Arione Bertone after her 2020 send of the problem.

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Initially graded 9A but downgraded by Nico Pelorson to 8C+ in Apr-2021. Upgraded again to 9A by Camille Coudert.

Estimated at 8B+ by Lucien Martinez in 2021.

#sd ; Same start as Chaos but then right. Initially graded 8C+, downgraded by Jimmy Webb.

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This is Beyond with its extension

Initially graded 9c but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi in agreement with Alex Megos in Aug-2021.

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'. More infos @ www.kletterblock.de

An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta).

The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b .

It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route.

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#SD Downgraded by Martin Stranik

Wand (R) zum 2.R "Schmidts Katze". Darunter rechts queren zu deren 1.R und rechtshaltend zu 4.R. Sprung (6) zu Massiv (Loch). Rippen zu kleinem Band. Sprung (7) zum Turm (Loch, 5.R). Wand gerade zum 3.R "Windspiel". Dieses nach rechts zu den Rissen vom "Windweg". Diesen und wie "Südostweg" zu Band. Wand gerade, später Reibung zG.

In the moment Alexander Megos and Yannick Flohé try this project

Please help locate me correctly. So far best info "in Frankenjura" This is part of an effort to document the hardest Boulders, in this case historically the second established 8C in the world.

This boulder was vandalized / destroyed in early 2020. Holds were hammered off, making this piece of climbing history unrepeatable...

Downgraded after the ascent of Christof Rauch: https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2019/02/christof-rauch-repeats-assassin-monkey-and-man-bokassas-fridge-ext-8c/

A combination of Real Absurdistan that exits via La Paloma.

#sd #lr

"Gioia is definitely one of the most difficult boulders in the world. It’s certainly harder than most 8C’s out there. The real question is, is it a full grade harder? If we decide to consider it 8C+, then there are also a couple other contenders for 8C+ in my opinion." Nalle Hukkataival.

Semi traverse, 16 moves, a foothold broke at the beginning of March 2015 but got glued back right after

A variant of "Nem".

Progetto

A perfectly horizontal roof.

A short, steep, and powerful route.

Between "Solimano" and "Marco Gelato".

Als "Team Dodo", uitsluitend grepen onder de ster gebruiken.

Bij witte ster beginnen en hoog uitklimmen,

First 9b+ of the world.

Starts on "Nordic Plumber" and climbs through the second pitch of "Thor’s Hammer".

Ascents

• Adam Ondra - 20 October 2013
• Sébastien Bouin - 18 June 2019