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South Face / Face Sud Rock climbing 6 routes in cliff

Grade context: FR
Photos: 7
Ascents: 46

YDS

5.10b 5.10d 5.11b 5.11d 5.12b

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Description

High alpine (3,500m) trad climbing on the south face of the Aiguille du midi lift station.

Access issues inherited from France

As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Approach

Glacier approach. Axe + crampons needed.

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

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Routes

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FA: Gaétano Vogler & Romain Vogler, 1982

FA: Michel Piola & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1984

Climb the right side of the face up into the big dihedral up top.

Up through the glorious roof crack on the left of the face then on to the top.

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