Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille de l'M | |||||
3b PD II | Frêtes des charmoz
The route takes the ridge that leads up to the foot of the NNE ridge of the L'M | 180m | |||
4+ | ★★ Arête NNE
| 200m | |||
6c | ★★ Voie Menegaux
A fairly steep climb with some short hard passages. 6a+/A0 or 6c free. Limited fixed pro, belays may need back-up FA: Ménégaux brothers, 1948 | 200m, 10 | |||
5c | ★★ Voie Couzy
1
4c
30m
2
4c
35m
3
5b
30m
4
5c
35m
5
4b
30m
6
4c
35m
195m trad route on the northwest face of the Aiguille de l'M. Some pitons here and there in the cracks, and slings/pitons in place at some belays, but bring a full rack. Plenty of pitons in place on the crux pitch (Pitch 4). Set: Couzy & Prost, 1952 FA: Couzy & Prost, 1952 | 200m, 6 | |||
{UIAA} 6 | Pointe Albert
| 200m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille des Petits Charmoz | |||||
5 | Pilier Sud-Ouest
| 200m | |||
4 | ★★★ Traversée des Petits Charmoz
| 200m | |||
5 | Face Ouest de l'Etala
| 160m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille des Grands Charmoz | |||||
5+ | Voie Duffour-Tafforeau
| 360m | |||
5+ | ★★ Pilier Cordier / Cordier Pillar
| 660m | |||
5+ | Voie des Italiens
| 360m | |||
4+ AD | ★★★ Traversée des Grands Charmoz
| ||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille du Grépon | |||||
6b | Vive la Unbathed Pinkos
| 360m | |||
6b | ★★★ Le soleil a Rendez-vous avec la Lune
1
4c
2
6a
3
5c
4
6a+
5
5b+
6
6a
7
5a
8
5c
9
5c
10
5b
11
6a
12
5c
13
5c
14
5b
15
5b
16
5c
17
5b
18
6a
19
6a
20
5c
21
5c
22
5c
23
5c
24
6a+
25
6b
Set: Michel Piola FA: Michel Piola, 2003 | 850m, 25 | |||
5c TD | ★★★ Traversée Charmoz - Grépon
| 400m | |||
5c | ★★★ Grépon Mer de Glace
FA: G.W. Young, H.O. Jones, R. Todhunter, J. Knubel & H. Bocherel, 1911 | 800m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille du Fou | |||||
AD | Col du Fou via Fontaine/Reynier
| ||||
5 TD | Arête SE (Alain-Latour)
| 140m | |||
AD | Traversée Fou-Blaitière
| ||||
ED | ★★★ South face - Classic route
Free up to 7c climbing, otherwise 6b/A1. Remote setting and one of the steepest faces in Chamonix area. FA: 1963 | 300m, 11 | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille des Pélérins | |||||
6c | Nostradamus
| 600m | |||
MIXED:M6 PROT:R | Beyond Reason
Starts up the Rebuffat/Terray for 150m then continues direct where the Rebuffat/Terray steps slightly right. Jon Bracey told UKC: "After ~200m of beautiful ice climbing, Beyond Reason then breaches the steep and intimidating rocky headwall by a series of hidden ice runnel, cracks, and exposed mixed climbing." FA: Matt Helliker, Jon Bracey & Pete Whittaker, 7 Feb 2020 | 550m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille de Blaitière Pilier Rouge de Blaitière | |||||
6b | Deal Attente
| 250m | |||
5+ | ★★ Les Lames Fontaines
| 140m | |||
6b | ★★★ L'Eau Rance D'Arabie
FA: Michel Piola & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1985 | 250m | |||
7a+ | Echec et Marx
FA: Michel Piola & Jacques Winterberger, 1985 | 250m | |||
6c | Mobutu et Bouche Cousue
| 250m | |||
6a | ★★ Les Diamants du Président
| 180m | |||
6c | Bobokassa
| 250m | |||
7a+ | Plus Lourd que l'Air
| 140m | |||
6b | ★★★ Majorette Thatcher
FA: Michel Piola & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1984 | 180m | |||
6b+ | Tripoli pour Etre Honnête
| 180m | |||
7a | Gauloiserie
| 250m | |||
6c+ | Charles Eternue
| 250m | |||
6c+ | Deux Goals
| 250m | |||
5c | ★★★ Nabot Léon
FA: Michel Piola & Thierry Cerdan, 1985 | 180m, 5 | |||
6c | La Chatte à Malaparte
| 220m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille de Blaitière Face Ouest de Blaitière (W Face) | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ Fidel Fiasco
FA: Michel Piola & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1984 | 350m, 12 | |||
6b+ | Brown-Whillans
FA: J. Brown & D. Whillians, 1954 | ||||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille du Peigne PPDA | |||||
A2 | ★★ Voie 12
| 20m | |||
A1 | ★ Barycentre
| 25m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille du Peigne | |||||
6b | ★★★ Le Ticket, le Carré, le Rond et la Lune
1
5c+
2
6b
3
6a
4
6b
5
6a+
6
6a+
7
5c+
FA: Gerard Hopfgartner & Michel Piola, 1983 | 250m, 7 | |||
6c | Verdon Memories
| 240m | |||
6c+ | Faut-il Brûler les Prophètes
| 240m | |||
5b | ★★ Les Lépidoptères
| 190m, 5 | |||
5 | ★★★ Arête des Papillons
| 250m | |||
5c | ★ Minettes spur
Nice ridge climb. Climbing is not sustained, and belays are comfortable. FA: George Charlet, 1943 | 250m, 7 | |||
4a | ★ Normal route
A long scramble approach that requires route-finding skills to get to the summit pyramid. The summit pyramid contains 9 pitches of climbing with traversers. Alpine classic. FA: Ravanel & Liégerard, 1906 | 600m, 9 | |||
D | Eperon Nord
Route climbs North butress and arrive at 3rd tower of the Pappions ridge. | 300m, 9 | |||
6a | ★★★ Voie Contamine - Vaucher
A classic varied climb with cracks, corners and chimneys on sound solid rock. FA: André Contamine, Pierre Labrunie & Michel Vaucher, 1957 | 400m, 15 | |||
6b+ | ★ Le Maillon Manquant
| 400m | |||
6c | ★★★ Pilier Rebuffat
| 600m | |||
AI4+ MIXED:M5 TD III | ★★ Cécile et la Mésange
starts with a gully, M5 dry step, snow field, thin ice, last AI4+ step. FA: François Blanchet & Godefroy Perroux, 1995 | 400m, 8 | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Aiguille du Plan | |||||
D | Arête Ryan
FA: 1906 | 550m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Pointes des Nantillons | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Guy-Anne l'insolite
1
5c
20m
2
5c
30m
3
6a+
35m
4
6a+
40m
5
5c
35m
6
6a
30m
7
6a
35m
8
6a
40m
9
5c
35m
10
6a
30m
11
6a
30m
12
6a
35m
| 400m, 12, 14 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Bienvenue au Georges V
1
6a+
2
5c
3
6a
4
6a+
5
5b
6
6a
7
6a+
8
6a
9
5c
10
6a
11
6a
12
5c
As usual for the area there are bolts in the slabs while the cracks are clean. | 350m, 12 | |||
6c | Le vaisseau fantôme
FA: Benoit Robert, Michel Piola & Vincent Sprungli, 1998 | 440m, 14 | |||
6b+ | L'Homme du Rio Grande
FA: Michel Piola, Benoit Robert & Vincent Sprungli, 1999 | 450m, 14 | |||
6a | Diedre Troussier
Mostly 5c, rock in places a bit friable FA: P. Grenier, R. Nicod, L. Reyssen & M. Troussier, 1977 | 350m, 10 | |||
6b+ | Les fleurs du mal
1
6a+
2
6b+
3
6a+
4
5c
5
6a
6
6a
7
6a+
8
4c
9
5b
10
6a
11
6a
12
6b
13
6a+
14
6a+
Belays are bolted FA: Michael Piola & Walter Josi, 2004 | 450m, 14 | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Bec d'oiseau | |||||
6a+ | Voie Pascal Meyer
FA: B. Chrétien & Pascal Meyer, 1959 | 600m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Tour Verte | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Le Piege
1
5c
2
6a+
3
6a+
4
6a
5
6a+
6
5c
7
5c
Equipped anchors with absail. A few extra bolts in places. FA: M Piola & J M Schenkel, 1984 | 200m, 6 | |||
6b+ | Le pont des soupirs
1
6a+
2
6a
3
5c
4
6a
5
6b+
6
6a+
7
6a
8
6a
FA: Fanny Bellucci & Vincent, 1990 | 250m, 10 | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Refuge de l'Envers area Tour Verte 2760m | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Le piège
1
6b+
30m
2
6a+
40m
3
6a
30m
4
6a+
50m
5
5c
30m
6
5c
40m
Start at the fantastic crack. Bring a cam Nr. 4. There is an easier version for the first pitch, if you start further to the right via the slab. | 220m, 6, 1 | |||
6c+ | Homologue exceptionnel
| 200m, 7 | |||
6b+ | Le pont des soupirs
1
6a+
2
6a
3
5c
4
3a
5
6a
6
6b+
7
6a+
8
6a
9
6a
| 250m, 8 | |||
6b | ★★ Le cité des doges
1
6b
40m
2
6a
30m
Alternative start to "Le pont des soupir". | 70m, 2 | |||
5+ | ★★ Gagafou
5c, 6a, 43, 6a, 55, 5b FA: Guenay & Stroubal, 1986 | 150m, 6 | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Tour Rouge | |||||
6c ED | Copie Carbone
FA: Gérard Hopfgartner & Michel Piola, 1984 | 300m | |||
6a | Cinquième Dynastie
| 300m | |||
6c | Dracula
| 300m | |||
6b+ | Chloé
| 300m | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Le Marchand de Sable
A true Envers classic. There are sections significantly harder than 6a+. Anchors are equipped and bolts on thin slabs or hard runout sections. FA: Gerard Hopfgartner & Michel Piola, 1983 | 330m | |||
6c | Tentative de Coup d'Ethique
| 260m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Aiguille de Roc | |||||
5 | ★ Sonam
FA: M. Batard, J. Moinet, F. Pichon & M. Presetelle, 1984 | 200m, 7 | |||
6a | Ambiance Eigerwand
| 250m | |||
6a | Voyage au Bout de l'Envers
| 250m | |||
6c | Gemini
| 180m | |||
6a+ | ★ Children of the Moon
1
5a
2
5c+
3
6a
4
6a+
5
6a
6
6a+
7
6a
8
6a
9
5c+
FA: Michel Piola & Nicolas Schenkel, 1982 | 300m, 9 | |||
6b | ★★★ Children of the Moon Intégrale
1
5a
2
5c+
3
6a
4
6a+
5
6a
6
6a+
7
6a
8
6a
9
5c+
10
6a
11
6b
12
3
13
6b
14
6a
15
6a
16
6a
17
6a+
18
6a
FA: Michel Piola & Vincent Sprungli, 1991 | 600m, 18 | |||
6a | Eye in the Sky
| 350m | |||
6b | Pedro Polar
FA: Michel Piola & PA Steiner, 1984 | 300m, 14 | |||
6c+ | Panne des Sens
| 250m | |||
6b+ | Pyramid
FA: Marc Batard & Michel Piola, 1982 | 350m, 11 | |||
6b | Mes Amitiés à Toutankhamon
| 250m | |||
6a | Pécheur de Genèse
| 150m | |||
6b | Subtilités Dülfériennes
FA: Marc Batard, Charles Dellamonica & Michel Piola, 1982 | 500m, 14 | |||
6c+ | Tout va mal
FA: G. Hopfgartner & Michel Piola, 1985 | 500m, 16 | |||
6b+ | Chihuahua
1
5c
50m
2
6a+
40m
3
5c
40m
4
6a+
40m
5
5c
40m
6
5b
40m
7
4c
40m
8
5b
40m
9
6a
30m
10
5c
30m
11
6b+
30m
| 420m, 11, 10 | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Pointe 3038 de Trélaporte | |||||
7a | ★★★ California Dream
1
6b
2
6c
3
6b
4
6b
5
4b
6
3
7
6b+
8
6b
9
6b
10
7a
11
6b+
12
5c
13
6c+
14
3
Must do direct line, alternating crack (no fixed gear) and slabs (bolted). The 7a section is a short 10 m with 3 bolts, the rest is sustained with everything between 6b and 6c FA: R. Desgranges, M. Piola & V.Sprungli, 2005 | 450m, 14 | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Pointe de Lépiney | |||||
6b+ | Je t'ai conquis je t'adore
FA: Daniel Anker, Michel Piola & Pascal Strapazzon, 1991 | 430m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Lower walls / Dalles inferieures | |||||
5b | ★ Vingt mille lieus sous la neige
Belays in place and some bolts FA: Piola & Ghilini, 1983 | 250m, 7 | |||
5c | La Voie George
FA: George Bettembourg, Ghilini & Piola, 1983 | 300m, 8 | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Envers des Aiguilles Aiguille de la République | |||||
5b | Voie normale
FA: Hippolyte-Émile Beaujard & Joseph Simond, 1904 | 600m | |||
6c+ | République bananière
1
5c
2
6a+
3
5c+
4
6a
5
6c
6
5c
7
6a
8
6a+
9
4c
10
6b
11
6a
12
4b
13
6b+
14
6b
15
6a+
16
6b+
17
6c
18
6a
19
6b
20
6c
21
6a+
22
5c
23
5b
24
5b
25
6c+
FA: Michael Piola & Vincent Sprungli, 2004 | 600m, 25 | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Aiguille du Midi North Face / Face Nord | |||||
TD | Couloir Chèré
Long snow / ice climb under hanging glacier (Serac). Preferably climbed in winter. Ice up to 70 degrees. FA: Robert Chèré, 1976 | 1000m | |||
D | ★★★ Frendo spur
Classic long mixed climb under and to the left of cable car to Aiguille du Midi. Short passage of grade 5 climbing and 70 degrees ice FA: Frendo & Rionda, 1944 | 1200m | |||
AD | ★★ Mallory-Porter
Excellent introduction to alpine north faces, easy approach and safe descent using the lift. The climb is hard to protect as it is mainly a snow climb. The crux pitch is easily protected if you desire to pitch it. FA: G.L.Mallory & H.E.L.Porter, 1919 | 1100m | |||
Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Aiguille du Midi South Face / Face Sud | |||||
6b+ | ★★ La Dame du Lac
FA: Gaétano Vogler & Romain Vogler, 1982 | 220m, 8 | |||
7a | Super Dupont
FA: Michel Piola & Pierre-Alain Steiner, 1984 | 210m, 9 |