Routes in Chamonix area

The route takes the ridge that leads up to the foot of the NNE ridge of the L'M

A fairly steep climb with some short hard passages. 6a+/A0 or 6c free. Limited fixed pro, belays may need back-up

195m trad route on the northwest face of the Aiguille de l'M. Some pitons here and there in the cracks, and slings/pitons in place at some belays, but bring a full rack. Plenty of pitons in place on the crux pitch (Pitch 4).

Free up to 7c climbing, otherwise 6b/A1. Remote setting and one of the steepest faces in Chamonix area.

Starts up the Rebuffat/Terray for 150m then continues direct where the Rebuffat/Terray steps slightly right. Jon Bracey told UKC: "After ~200m of beautiful ice climbing, Beyond Reason then breaches the steep and intimidating rocky headwall by a series of hidden ice runnel, cracks, and exposed mixed climbing."

Source UKC

Nice ridge climb. Climbing is not sustained, and belays are comfortable.

A long scramble approach that requires route-finding skills to get to the summit pyramid. The summit pyramid contains 9 pitches of climbing with traversers. Alpine classic.

Route climbs North butress and arrive at 3rd tower of the Pappions ridge.

A classic varied climb with cracks, corners and chimneys on sound solid rock.

starts with a gully, M5 dry step, snow field, thin ice, last AI4+ step.

As usual for the area there are bolts in the slabs while the cracks are clean.

Mostly 5c, rock in places a bit friable

Belays are bolted

Equipped anchors with absail. A few extra bolts in places.

Start at the fantastic crack. Bring a cam Nr. 4. There is an easier version for the first pitch, if you start further to the right via the slab.

Alternative start to "Le pont des soupir".

5c, 6a, 43, 6a, 55, 5b

A true Envers classic. There are sections significantly harder than 6a+. Anchors are equipped and bolts on thin slabs or hard runout sections.

Must do direct line, alternating crack (no fixed gear) and slabs (bolted). The 7a section is a short 10 m with 3 bolts, the rest is sustained with everything between 6b and 6c

Belays in place and some bolts

Long snow / ice climb under hanging glacier (Serac). Preferably climbed in winter. Ice up to 70 degrees.

Classic long mixed climb under and to the left of cable car to Aiguille du Midi. Short passage of grade 5 climbing and 70 degrees ice

Excellent introduction to alpine north faces, easy approach and safe descent using the lift. The climb is hard to protect as it is mainly a snow climb. The crux pitch is easily protected if you desire to pitch it.