Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Escalier d'entrée Le front gauche | |||||
6c | Du monde au balcon
Ring bolts lead the way up a vertical wall and bulge right of the cave. Visible through the trees when walking down the stairs. Start at the level of the cave and follow the line of bolts furthest right. | ||||
6c | sans nom (bloc)
A line of bolts leads up this vertical route from the corner at the right end of the cave. Head R through the bulge at 12m, R of a big white dihedral. | ||||
6a+ | dièdre
Up the line of bolts on the arrête R of the cave. When the lines split, climb into the white corner. | ||||
7a+ | arrête et bombé
Up the line of bolts on the arrête R of the cave. When the lines split, climb through the bulge. | ||||
7a+ | ★ Kuta beach
Line with fixed draws through the roof of the cave. The rightmost line through the roof. | ||||
7b+ | CHARLiberté
Line with fixed draws through the roof of the cave. | ||||
7b | ★★ Chez Fred
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7c+ | Magic mushroom
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7c+/8a | sans nom
1 fixed draw marks a line through the roof. | ||||
La 49.3
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Escalier d'entrée Atout cœur | |||||
7a | Cigale Brass Band
Visible on the grey left wall while walking down. Starts from the low landing with the other routes at the base of the staircase, next to a small natural wall and a bridge of chocked rocks and dirt. Trend left and traverse left at half height. | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Bas de plafond (directe)
The second line of bolts R of the bridge of chocked rocks and dirt. Up the seemingly straightforward vertical wall. At the scoop at 2/3 height take the L line of bolts through the bulge. | 22m | |||
6c | ★★ Bas de plafond (sortie droite)
At the scoop at 2/3 height take the R line of bolts through the corner. | 22m | |||
6b | ★★ Back to front
Start at the big sika'd flake. At the crux about 7m up move slightly right (or go direct and slap the desperate sloping crimps several grades harder). | ||||
6a | ★ La vie sur mars
Pockets and slopers lead the way up the tiered arrête. | 20m | |||
5c - 6a | Manque de réception
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5c | La conque
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6a+ | ★ Jungle boogie
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6a | Atout cœur
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6a | ★ Tête à cul
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6a | La chasse au trésor
| 25m | |||
Escalier d'entrée Côté gauche | |||||
6b+ | Le bureau
Finish straight up. | ||||
6b | La chambre d'ami
Crosses out left. | ||||
7a+ | Passe moi le sel
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6c | Bella ciao
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6b+ | ★★ Pokhara
First bolts shared with "Katmandou". Head left where the lines split. A slabby start leads to a surprisingly steep and suspiciously pocketed crux. | ||||
6b | ★★ Katmandou
Climbs up a slabby pillar of sloping dinner plates. First bolts shared with "Pokhara" ; splits right. | ||||
6a+ | Aux armes
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6a | Six mois de vacances
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Le fond de La Réserve | |||||
5a - b | Sans nom
Starts from a little raised platform above a couple of boulders. The first route from the left on this part of the wall. The line arcs left. | 15m, 9 | |||
5c | L'incontinent
Start up a shallow slabby arrête and then finish up a short headwall. | ||||
6a | Simon du fleuve
Starts at a small platform next to some trees. Up the slabby grey ramp to a steeper finish on cream-coloured rock. | 18m | |||
6b | ★ La grande distribution
Starts at the small flake feature on the grey slab. Up through a bulge, then finishing up a headwall with a bulge made of layered dinner plates. | 20m, 11 | |||
6b | Un truc de fille
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6b | Le Jeune Ouvrier
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6a+ | ★ A bout de souffle
A hard start. Finish under the bushy tree. | ||||
6b | ★★ DIY
The top is just right of the giant flake at 2/3 height. A technical slabby start and then some jiggy steeper stuff up top. Careful of the ant nest in the horizontal crack at the end of the steeper section; better to continue to the anchor rather than rest there. | ||||
6b+ | Soin à domicile
The line of fixed hangers. | ||||
6c | ★★★ Le four
A séries of small pockets lead to the first bolt. | ||||
6a | ★★ Le moulin
| ||||
6a+ | Manque d'inspiration
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Sans nom 2
Thin start at the left edge of the burnt rock (4m up). | |||||
Sans nom 3
Up the right edge of the burnt rock. | |||||
Sans nom 4
Trend left up the slabby ramp | |||||
6c | La bosse à nova
Thin face right of the scoop. Sheds holds like dandruff. | ||||
7a | Dolomite
The first in a series of 3 climbs starting at the bulge. A steep bouldery start, then finish up the crack. | ||||
7b+ | Allo Arno ??
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7b | La sortie des clous
Another steep bouldery start. | ||||
7c+ | Sortir de la grisaille par des crépuscules enchanteurs
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La Réserve Mur vertical | |||||
6c | ★★★ Velleron Express
The leftmost climb on this bit of wall. Thin, technical and sustained. | ||||
6b+ | Panne de Gestion
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6b | ★★ Raoul Petite
| 20m | |||
6b | Entre deux traces
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6b | L'atelier
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6b+ | Le magasin
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6b+ | ★★ Séance nocturne
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7a | Conseil de classe
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6c | Rendez vous dans 10 ans
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6b | ★ Faute de gaussier
Powerful boulder start on slopers, then a nice ramble to the top. | 20m | |||
6b+ | Premier tour
| 20m | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Championnat du monde de France contre basse
The rightmost route before the giant flake, on the grey part of this wall. Technical and sustained. | ||||
La Réserve La grande écaille / The giant flake | |||||
7a+ | ★ Close to paradise
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7b+ | ★ Antigel
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6c+ | ★★ Paquet cadeau
| ||||
6c/c+ | ★★ Noyeux Joël
Perfect jugs lead the way up the steep wall. Keep some juice for the sting in the tail at the final bulge. | 25m | |||
6b+ | ★★ La poursuite du bonheur
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6c+ | ★ Le cargo de nuit
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7b | ★★ Ciel de neige
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7a | ★ Tarzan
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7b | Stock car
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7a | Grosseversstock
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La Réserve La maison troglodyte / the house in the cave | |||||
7c+ | Bricoman
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7c | ★★ L'entorse
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8b | No cairn
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8a+ | Full métal casquette
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7b+ | ★★ Pierre sèche
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7a+ | ★★ New time
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7a | ★★ L'invitation
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7a | ★★ Térapiraté
Start climbing up stone wall. | 20m | |||
6c | ★★ No Tufa's Route
| 20m | |||
6b+ | ★ Hibou Joujou Cailloux
| ||||
La Réserve Le recoin ombragé | |||||
6c+ | ★ L'appartement
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7a | ★ L'Africain
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6b+ | ★ Parisien
| 20m | |||
6a | ★ La commission
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6a | ★ Encore un de raté
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6b+ | La gauche pas si mal
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6b | ★★ Mono point
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6a+ | ★★ Les maux de nono
| 20m | |||
5c | ★ Pitchounette
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6a+ | Zipette
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6a+ | Classe mannequin
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7a | P'tit caïd
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7a+ | Soirée célibat
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7a | Pékin express
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7a | Zoulou goulou
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7a+ | Les yeux dans le bleu
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7a+ | Vis ta nuit
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6c | Petit mix
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Sibérie | |||||
6a | Sortie de secours
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