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Le Pilier des Fourmis

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 53

Seasonality

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Description

The grandest sector with a wealth of brilliant routes, a few of which continue all the way to the top. Le Pilier is perhaps the best multi and well worth getting on. Lower slabby walls are popular.

Access issues inherited from Buoux

Climbing is only authorized from the sectors "Face Ouest" to "Bout du Monde" on the Aiguebrun cliff. All the other areas, including the Confines cliff (on the opposite side) are currently on private land and are closed. Camping and fires are prohibited.

Climbing was forbidden in Buoux for more than a decade. The last area to have been reopened is the Face Ouest area which was re-opened in 2010 with many new routes and some classic lines rebolted.

Not respecting these rules could lead to the area being closed again.

Ethic inherited from Buoux

  • No camping
  • No sleeping in car parks
  • No fire
  • Don't leave any trash
  • Brush off your chalk and tick marks

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5c
2 6a+

Follow the bolts up the obvious crack. Hard for the grade and runout in parts.

1 6a+
2 5b
3 6b+
4 7a

A good pitch up a corner system.

L1: A good pitch in its own right. L2: An easy scramble with spaced bolting. L4: A wild finale, can be aided at 6b+ according to Rockfax guide.

FA: Pierre Coquillon, Raymond Coulon, Jean Gay & Pierre Gras, 1968

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Selected Guidebooks more

Author(s): Francoise Lepron & Jean-Bastiste Tribout

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9782957978915

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the sport climbing and bouldering at Buoux, covering around 800 routes.

Author(s): Adrian Berry

Date: 2009

ISBN: 12490279

A selective guidebook describing over 2.500 routes at 14 different crags, which are Ceuse, Sisteron, Volx, Orpierre, Bellecombe, Baume Rousse, Ubrieux, St Julien, St Leger, Malaucene, Combe Obscure, Les Dentelles, Venasque and Buoux.

Author(s): David Atchison-Jones

Date: 2006

ISBN: 9781873665619

A selective guidebook describing nearly 40 separate sports climbing and rock climbing areas around Avignon and Mont Ventoux, including the crags of Saint Leger, Venasque, Clapis Face, Saint Julian and Trois Rivieres.

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