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L'empire des lumières All Sport climbing 10 routes in area

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 12
10
FR
6b6c7a

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

A newly developed sector of pure Buoux pockets.

Access issues inherited from Buoux

Climbing is only authorized from the sectors "Face Ouest" to "Bout du Monde" on the Aiguebrun cliff. All the other areas, including the Confines cliff (on the opposite side) are currently on private land and are closed. Camping and fires are prohibited.

Climbing was forbidden in Buoux for more than a decade. The last area to have been reopened is the Face Ouest area which was re-opened in 2010 with many new routes and some classic lines rebolted.

Not respecting these rules could lead to the area being closed again.

Approach

Continue around the corner past sector Multicolor.

Ethic inherited from Buoux

  • No camping
  • No sleeping in car parks
  • No fire
  • Don't leave any trash
  • Brush off your chalk and tick marks

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Guidebooks

Routes

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Grade Route
1
6c - 7a ★★ Babel ouest Sport 25m

Starts at a raised landing with several other routes, just right of the convex grey wall. A hard start up a pocketed wall.

2
6b+ ★★★ Les mystères de l'ouest Sport

Classic Buoux pockets. It's not over until it's over.

3
À l'ouest Sport

Starts on the arrête just left of the vegetated gully/corner.

4
6b+ ★ Cachet bleu Sport

A north facing slabby pocketed wall. Some big reaches. At half height move left.

5
6b Cachet jaune Sport

Another short slabby pocketed wall. This time with a bit more slab.

6
6c - 7a Sticky fingers Sport

Pure Buoux pockets into a bald slab finish. Morpho ending.

7
7a ★★★ La fusée Sport

Pockets into a crack and then wild overhang. This is the LH start (otherwise 6c). Crux is height dependent.

8
6c Apollo 11 / La fusée RHV Sport

Direct start up the pocketed slab and rib, joining La Fusée at ~15m.

9
La vague... Sport
10
La tentation Sport

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Inner Grail of Buoux Sport Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): Francoise Lepron & Jean-Bastiste Tribout

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9782957978915

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the sport climbing and bouldering at Buoux, covering around 800 routes.

Buy
ⓘ
France - Haute Provence

Author(s): Adrian Berry

Date: 2009

ISBN: 12490279

A selective guidebook describing over 2.500 routes at 14 different crags, which are Ceuse, Sisteron, Volx, Orpierre, Bellecombe, Baume Rousse, Ubrieux, St Julien, St Leger, Malaucene, Combe Obscure, Les Dentelles, Venasque and Buoux.

Buy
ⓘ
Avignon Soleil Sport Climbing Guidebook

Author(s): David Atchison-Jones

Date: 2006

ISBN: 9781873665619

A selective guidebook describing nearly 40 separate sports climbing and rock climbing areas around Avignon and Mont Ventoux, including the crags of Saint Leger, Venasque, Clapis Face, Saint Julian and Trois Rivieres.

Buy
ⓘ

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7a ★★★ La fusée

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Tue 25 Apr
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