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Summary

Welcome to one of the best crags in France (and the world?)

Description

Céüse ("say-uz") is known for long, hard and steep routes but there is something for everyone here: from steep and juggy, to vertical and technical, to bolted single pitches and trad multi-pitches...

Then there's the location: the cliffs are perched on top of a 2000m mountain with a majestic view on the south of France.

This is a great summer destination for sport climbing where you'll get to jump on classic climbs, some of historical importance such as 'Biographie', the first 9a+ in the world.

Topo : Céüse, Laurent Girousse et Rolland Marie, 2018. 148 pages. 26€

http://www.guidedemontagne.fr/achat-topo-ceuse-2018/

Access issues inherited from France

As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Approach

There's always a catch and this is it: the walk-in is a real pain which will take between 45m and an hour depending on much stuff you carry and how fit you are. From the campsite, follow a marked site passed a horse shed until you reach a well-worn path leading upwards. Follow this past a staggered junction on a forest track until you get to a track that contours several hundred meters below the crag.

Where to stay

Campsite "Camping Les Guerins" located some way beneath the crag.

Ethic

Leave no trace.

History

History timeline chart

Patrick Edlinger is believed to have been one of the first to recognise the importance of Ceuse for "futuristic" climbs. He was convinced after running around the cliff and brought some friends to start bolting hard routes. Not having much money to buy bolts, their routes were often pretty run-out but soon enough, Ceuse attracted strong climbers from all over the world.

Chris Sharma made the historic ascent of 'Biographie' in 2001 (bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1989, 'first part' freed by Arnaud Petit that same year). The full route was later graded 9a+.

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Activity

Check out what is happening in Céüse.

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