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Biographie Mostly Sport climbing 34 routes in sector

34
FR
7a7b7c8a8b8c9a9b9c

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
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D

Description

Famous sector but well out of reach for all but a few. Not yet fully developed.

Access issues inherited from France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Ethic inherited from Céüse

Leave no trace.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
9b+ Bibliographie Sport 35m

Initially graded 9c but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi in agreement with Alex Megos in Aug-2021.

Set: Ethan Pringle, 2009

FA: Alex Megos, 5 Aug 2020

2
8c+ Biographie R1 Sport

First section of "Biographie"

FFA: Arnaud Petit, 1996

3
9a+ ★★★ Biographie / Realization Sport 40m

In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".

Ascent History:

  • 2001, July 19 Chris Sharma - Beta video
  • 2004, May 24 Sylvain Millet
  • 2004, July 29 Patxi Usobiaga
  • 2007, July 30 Dave Graham
  • 2007, Sep 02 Ethan Pringle
  • 2008, July 27 Ramón Julián Puigblanque
  • 2010, Aug 15 Enzo Oddo
  • 2014, June 01 Jonathan Siegrist
  • 2014, July 11 Alex Megos
  • 2014, July 22 Adam Ondra
  • 2014, Aug 07 Sachi Amma
  • 2015, June 22 Stefano Ghisolfi
  • 2016, May 25 Jon Cardwell
  • 2016, Aug 05 Sean Bailey
  • 2017, Sep 24 Margo Hayes
  • 2018, July, Piotr Schab
  • 2018, Sep Stefano Carnati
  • 2019, July Jorge Díaz-Rullo

Set: Jean-Christophe Lafaille, 1989

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2001

4
9a+/b L'Etrange Ivresse des Lenteurs Sport 40m

https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2020/09/alexander-megos-holt-sich-die-2-begehung-von-letrange-ivresse-des-lenteurs-9a/

Set: Sylvain Millet

FA: Adam Ondra, 2010

5
8c Et on tuera tous les affreux / Le Cadre original Sport 40m
6
9a ★★★ Le Cadre Nouvelle Sport 40m

Left variation of "Le Cadre" that avoids the chipped holds on the original line.

Set: Sylvain Millet

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2010

7
9a Three Degrees of Separation Sport 25m

Three big dynos.

Ascents

  • Chris Sharma - 21 July 2007
  • Adam Ondra - 21 July 2015
  • Lucien Martinez - 4 April 2019

Set: Chris Sharma

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2007

8
8c+ ★★★ La part du diable Sport
9
9a Dr Jekyll Sport 30m

FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2015

10
8c+ ★★★ Mister Hyde Sport 30m

FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2015

11
9a Pornographie Sport

Location not exact, please move to the right spot!

FA: Alex Megos, Jun 2020

12
9a Spoilt Kid Sport

Location not exact, please move to the right spot!

Set: Quentin Chastagnier

FFA: Nico Pelorson, 20 Jun 2020

13
8a ★★★ Les colonnettes Sport 25m

The start can be aided which puts the route at a friendlier 7c+. But what's the fun in that? There's also an upside-down no hands bat hang rest!

14
8b+ ★★★ The Black Bean Sport 65m

The enormous extension of Les Colonettes. Has been climbed on trad gear by Arnaud Petit.

15
8c ★★★ Chronique de la haine ordinaire Sport 25m
16
8c+ Forced used up Sport 70m

FA: Dave Graham, 2008

17
8c+ ★★★ No Future Sport 70m

A looong route

18
8c - 9a Les enfants gatés Sport 35m
19
8c Baa Baa Black Sheep Sport 25m
20
Touchez pas à nos idoles SportProject
21
Un miroir pour Narcisse SportProject

Extension of Touchez pas à nos idoles.

22
8a+ ★★★ Ceredo Climbing Team Sport 30m
23
7c+ De l'inconvénient d'être né Trad 55m
24
7c+ ★★★ Tout n'est pas si facile Sport 30m

Some clipped holds to finish.

25
8b Stairway to heaven Sport 65m

Extension of Tout n'est pas si facile.

26
8c L'écaille Trad 60m
27
8a ★★★ La femme à barbe Sport 25m
28
7a ★★ Nitassinan Sport 25m

Very hard start but a great tufa pulling finish.

29
8a+ La route bleue Sport 30m

FA: Arnaud Petit, 2012

30
7b ★★★ Wounded Knee Sport 25m
31
7b+ ★★ Sitting Bull Sport 25m
32
7a ★★ Saint Georges Picos Sport 20m

Classic. Hard for the first four clips.

33
7a ★★★ J'aime Lolo Sport 20m
34
7b+ Le tue peau de Satan Sport 30m

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Nearby Icons

7a ★★ Saint Georges Picos
7b ★★★ Wounded Knee
8a ★★★ La femme à barbe
8a+ ★★★ Ceredo Climbing Team
8b+ ★★★ The Black Bean
9a ★★★ Le Cadre Nouvelle
9a+ ★★★ Biographie

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Alex Megos on Bibliographie 9b+ - Reaching high

Alexander Adler at Biographie - Un_8b+

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