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Description

Famous sector but well out of reach for all but a few. Not yet fully developed.

Access issues inherited from France

As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Ethic inherited from Céüse

Leave no trace.

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FA: Alex Megos, 5 Aug 2020

First section of "Biographie"

FFA: Arnaud Petit

In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".

Ascent History:

  • 2001, July 19 Chris Sharma - Beta video
  • 2004, May 24 Sylvain Millet
  • 2004, July 29 Patxi Usobiaga
  • 2007, July 30 Dave Graham
  • 2007, Sep 02 Ethan Pringle
  • 2008, July 27 Ramón Julián Puigblanque
  • 2010, Aug 15 Enzo Oddo
  • 2014, June 01 Jonathan Siegrist
  • 2014, July 11 Alex Megos
  • 2014, July 22 Adam Ondra
  • 2014, Aug 07 Sachi Amma
  • 2015, June 22 Stefano Ghisolfi
  • 2016, May 25 Jon Cardwell
  • 2016, Aug 05 Sean Bailey
  • 2017, Sep 24 Margo Hayes
  • 2018, July, Piotr Schab
  • 2018, Sep Stefano Carnati
  • 2019, July Jorge Díaz-Rullo

Set by Jean-Christophe Lafaille, 1989

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2001

Left variation of "Le Cadre" that avoids the chipped holds on the original line.

Set by Sylvain Millet

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2010

Three big dynos.

Ascents

  • Chris Sharma - 21 July 2007
  • Adam Ondra - 21 July 2015
  • Lucien Martinez - 4 April 2019

Set by Chris Sharma

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2007

FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2015

FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2015

Location not exact, please move to the right spot!

FA: Alex Megos, Jun 2020

Location not exact, please move to the right spot!

Set by Quentin Chastagnier

FFA: Nico Pelorson, 20 Jun 2020

The start can be aided which puts the route at a friendlier 7c+. But what's the fun in that? There's also an upside-down no hands bat hang rest!

The enormous extension of Les Colonettes. Has been climbed on trad gear by Arnaud Petit.

FA: Dave Graham, 2008

A looong route

Extension of Touchez pas à nos idoles.

Some clipped holds to finish.

Extension of Tout n'est pas si facile.

Very hard start but a great tufa pulling finish.

FA: Arnaud Petit, 2012

Classic. Hard for the first four clips.

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