Famous sector but well out of reach for all but a few. Not yet fully developed.

Access issues inherited from France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with

Ethic inherited from Céüse

Leave no trace.



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Grade Route

FA: Adam Ondra, 2012

FA: Arnaud Petit, 1996

In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie".

Ascent History:

  • 2001, July, 19, Chris Sharma - Beta video
  • 2004, May, 24, Sylvain Millet
  • 2004, July, 29, Patxi Usobiaga
  • 2007, July, 30, Dave Graham
  • 2007, Sep, 02, Ethan Pringle
  • 2008, July, 27, Ramón Julián Puigblanque
  • 2010, Aug, 15, Enzo Oddo
  • 2014, June, 01, Jonathan Siegrist
  • 2014, July, 11, Alex Megos
  • 2014, July, 22, Adam Ondra
  • 2014, Aug, 07, Sachi Amma
  • 2015, June, 22, Stefano Ghisolfi
  • 2016, May, 25, Jon Cardwell
  • 2016, Aug, 05, Sean Bailey
  • 2017, Sep, 24, Margo Hayes
  • 2018, July, Piotr Schab
  • 2018, Sep, Stefano Carnati
  • 2019, July, Jorge Díaz-Rullo
  • 2020, Sébastien Bouin
  • 2023, Apr, Tanguy Merard
  • 2023, May, Matty Hong

Set: Jean-Christophe Lafaille, 1989

FA: Chris Sharma, 2001

NA: Margo Hayes, 4 Jun 2021

Initially graded 9c but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi in agreement with Alex Megos in Aug-2021.

Set: Ethan Pringle, 2009

FA: Alex Megos, 5 Aug 2020

Between "Bibliographie" and "L’Étrange Ivress".

FA: Alex Megos, Jun 2020

Originally graded 8c but after a hold broke upgraded to 8c+/9a.

Left variation of "Le Cadre" that avoids the chipped holds on the original line. Hard for the grade.

Set: Sylvain Millet

FA: Adam Ondra, 2010

Three big dynos.

FA: Chris Sharma, 2007

Still project - Open - 9a+ ?

Set: Quentin Chastagnier, 2015

FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2015

Location not exact, please move to the right spot!

Set: Quentin Chastagnier

FA: Nico Pelorson, 2020

The start can be aided which puts the route at a friendlier 7c+.

The enormous extension of Les Colonettes. Has been climbed on trad gear by Arnaud Petit.

FA: Dave Graham, 2008

Extension of Touchez pas à nos idoles.

Some clipped holds to finish.

Extension of Tout n'est pas si facile.

Very hard start but a great tufa pulling finish.

FA: Arnaud Petit, 2012

Classic. Hard for the first four clips.


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Rolland Marie & Laurent Girousse

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9782958860509

The semi-circular, nearly endless wall of Céüse offers some 750 single pitches - some multi-pitches as well as traditionally equipped routes / difficulties from 5 to 9.

Author(s): Laurent Girousse

Date: 2023

This latest edition features all the routes on the cliff: 900 pitches spread across 37 sectors and sub-sectors. Each one is accompanied by a photo and route illustration. Various approaches are described precisely and supported by panoramic photos. For 25 years, this cliff has been a part of the global high-level climbing scene, mainly known for its challenging to extreme routes. However, nowadays, Céüse is no longer exclusive to the elite, as several recently re-bolted sectors allow everyone to enjoy this exceptional wall.

The author of this guidebooks, Laurent Girousse, is one of the main bolters of the crags around Gap.

Author(s): Adrian Berry

Date: 2009

ISBN: 12490279

A selective guidebook describing over 2.500 routes at 14 different crags, which are Ceuse, Sisteron, Volx, Orpierre, Bellecombe, Baume Rousse, Ubrieux, St Julien, St Leger, Malaucene, Combe Obscure, Les Dentelles, Venasque and Buoux.

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