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Description
The holy grail of bouldering. Every serious boulderer should visit Fontainebleau at least once in their life. You'll find a beautiful landscape, perfect rock and the need for a wide variety of climbing skills!
The area is mainly taken care of by CoSiRoc (https://cosiroc.fr/) where you can find most of the topos.
Access issues inherited from France
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
Approach
Located close to Paris, so there are many options to get there. Generally, a car is recommended to reach most of the sectors. From the La Musardière campsite, the Trois Pignons sectors can be easily reached by bike (or even by foot)
Trains to Bois-le Roi and Fontainebleau-Avon leave from the Gare de Lyon in Paris. From them, several sectors can be reached by a short hike of about 30min.
Where to stay
SLEEPING IN THE FOREST ("bivouac"), IN YOUR TENT OR A CAMPERVAN IS PROHIBITED.
ISATIS IS NOT A CAMPING GROUND, DO NOT PARK YOUR CAMPERVAN THERE, DO NOT SET UP A TENT - YOU WILL GET FINED AND YOU WILL PISS OFF THE LOCALS.
Campsite La Musardière for direct access to the Trois Pignons area. Free campsite in Bourron-Marlotte. Many gîtes (B&Bs) can be found, often tended by climbers.
Ethic
ALL FIRES ARE PROHIBITED IN THE FOREST
NO CIGARETTES !!! NO STOVES !! NO OPEN FLAMES
The sandstone is fragile. To preserve the area (and the climbs) please adhere to the following rules:
Use chalk with caution and brush it off afterwards (including huge tick marks).
Chalk should only be used on hands, never directly on the rock!
Clean the bottom of your climbing shoes removing all sand and dirt before any climb. This is essential to limit rock erosion.
DONT CLIMB ON WET ROCK!!!!
Night climbing is prohibited to reduce the impact on the animal habitat.
Dont use the base of the routes as your toilet. Go into the forest a little further off the track or out of the area for a 1 and dig a hole for a 2.
History
1908 the Paris Alpine club marked the first parcours to practice techniques for the higher mountains. Since then, Fontainebleau has always been on the forefront of the development of bouldering. Examples are 'L'Angle Allain' 5+ (1935, Pierre Allain), "La Marie Rose" 6A (1946, René Ferlet), 'La Joker' originally 6C, nowadays a hard 7A (1952, Robert Paragot), 'L‘Abbatoir' 7A (1960, Michel Libert), 'Le Carnage' 7B (1983, Jérôme Jean-Charles, 1983), 'La Bérézina' 7C (1977, Pierre Richard), 'C‘était demain' 8A (1984, Jacky Godoffe), 'Fat Man' 8B (1984, Jacky Godoffe).
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): David Atchison-Jones
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781873665152
This is a selective guidebook describing the very best areas in the forests of Fontainebleau, and is aimed at groups of mixed climbing abilities who all want to climb in the same general area, covering over 7,600 problems and 123 circuits.
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Author(s): David Atchison-Jones
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9781873665237
This is a selective guidebook describing the quieter and less frequented bouldering areas of Fontainebleau that will enable you to escape from the crowds or visit somewhere new, covering over 9,000 problems from Fb 1a to Fb 9a.
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Author(s): Jo Montchausse, Francoise Montchausse & Jacky Godoffe
Date: 2012
ISBN: 9781898573869
A selective guidebook describing the finest bouldering and circuits in the forests of Fontainebleau, and covering nearly 40 separate areas.
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