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Secteur Saphir

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 16
3
FR

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

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Routes

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Grade Route

One of the most classic routes in d'en Vau. Due to its age and popularity, the polish of this route is as extraordinary as the views you get on it.

Listed as 4c or 5a in some guidebooks, it is probably closer to 5c from a modern point of view, taking into account the vanishing foot holds.

5 pitches, but commonly done in 4: First steep pitch (4c/5a), second "ridge walk" pitch around 2, linking third and fourth pitch up to half of the headwall (5a and then ~5c, 5a originally), and final pitch (4c, 3+ originally). On the headwall, there are two variations right of the original line, both graded at 5c.

Descent: Follow the cairns until you find the hiking paths up on the plateau. You're one the wrong trail if the rock is not polished under your feet. From the plateau, go down again to the beach or walk out.

FA: Joseph Bouisson, Paul Guérin, Maurice Samuel & Félix Soleil, 1939

1 5a
2 5c
1 5c+
2 5c

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): André Bernard, Gilles Bernard, Gwenaël Drouot, and Hervé Guigliarelli

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9791090796256

A comprehensive guidebook describing the rock climbing and sport climbing in the Calanques National Park, covering around 2,000 routes.

Author(s): Jean-Louis Fenouil & Cedric Tassan

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9782916972527

A comprehensive guidebook describing the rock climbing at Calanques nearMarseille, covering 1,110 routes mainly up to F6c, of which 418 are multi-pitch routes and 15 are traverses.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

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