Secteur Saphir

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 24



Access issues inherited from France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.



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Grade Route

One of the most classic routes in d'en Vau. Due to its age and popularity, the polish of this route is as extraordinary as the views you get on it.

Listed as 4c or 5a in some guidebooks, it is probably closer to 5c from a modern point of view, taking into account the vanishing foot holds.

5 pitches, but commonly done in 4: First steep pitch (4c/5a), second "ridge walk" pitch around 2, linking third and fourth pitch up to half of the headwall (5a and then ~5c, 5a originally), and final pitch (4c, 3+ originally). On the headwall, there are two variations right of the original line, both graded at 5c.

Descent: Follow the cairns until you find the hiking paths up on the plateau. You're one the wrong trail if the rock is not polished under your feet. From the plateau, go down again to the beach or walk out.

FA: Joseph Bouisson, Paul Guérin, Maurice Samuel & Félix Soleil, 1939

1 5a
2 5c
1 5c+
2 5c

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): André Bernard, Gilles Bernard, Gwenaël Drouot, and Hervé Guigliarelli

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9791090796256

Les Calanques komplett. In diesem Kletterführer sind alle Wege enthalten, Sportkletterrouten und klassische Touren. Schwierigkeiten von 4 bis 9 der franz. Skala, Einseil- oder Mehrseillänge und Quergänge.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Author(s): Association Les Grimpeurs

Date: 2020

This bilingual English/French guidebook is the digital version of the guidebook Climbing in the Calanques edited by the CT FFME Bouches-du-Rhône (the local branch of the French climbing federation)
It presents a large selection of climbing routes in the Calanques including sports crags and many sectors of multi-pitch routes. It was designed respecting several criteria: provide a description of the Calanques that is as thorough as possible, meet climbers’ expectations and preferences, and arouse interest in all types of climbing. The routes are drawn on photos, the accesses are described precisely and are illustrated with maps. Finally, for each cliff, approach time is indicated as well as the length of rope required, aspect, number of routes, the average difficulty, and the range of grades. This guidebook is published by the CT FFME of the Bouches du Rhône. It participates directly to the maintenance of the crags in the region.
The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 25 Feb
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