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Access issues inherited from Les Gorges du Verdon

The gorges are the home of a few protected bird species. Some areas may be closed during nesting season.

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5a
2 6c+
3 7a
4 7c+
5 6c+
6 6c
1 6c
2 7a
1 7c+
2 7c
3 8a
4 8a
5 7c
6 7c+

P3-P4 : onsighted by Charlotte Durif in 2009.

1 7c
2 8b
1 7c
2 9a

Set: Antonin Rhodes

FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 30 Jul 2014

Onsighted by Charlotte Durif (2009).

1 7c+
2 7b
3 7c+
4 6c+
1 8a+
2 8a
3 8b
4 8a
5 6c+

Set: Bruno Clément

1 8a
2 8a+

Louis Attaque (P1) + La Ramirole (P2)

This route is made of two parts:

  • the first part is a resistant and physical 8c+, followed by a good rest.
  • the second part is an 8c taking place in the steepest part of the work that will drain your stamina...

Seb has said that this was harder than "Thor's Hammer" which is why he is suggesting 9a+.

Set: Antonin Rhodes

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 27 Aug 2016

1 8c+
2 9a

Set: Antonin Rhodes

FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 29 Aug 2015

Set: Antonin Rhodes

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 2011

Start as Bohemian symphony and finish as Promotion canne à pêche.

Set: Antonin Rhodes

FA: Carole Palmier, 9 Aug 2015

An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta).

The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b .

It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route.

Set: Antonin Rhodes

FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 5 Sep 2019

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 27 Jul 2020

1 7b
2 7c+
1 7c
2 8b+

Depeche Rhodes + Freyzer Söze + L’Arnoldisable

1 7b+
2 7c

A 60m "king line" on an overhanging prow above 150m of air. Seb bolted the route in 2009, in a bottom up effort that took him three days to complete. Over the following years, Seb regularly came back to try the route but it soon became obvious that its difficulty was out of reach. He finally sent his project in 2008, grading it 9a+ (solid). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSpcVwOMSL0

Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2009

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 23 Sep 2018

1 6c
2 8a
3 7c+
4 8b+
5 8b
6 8b
1 8b
2 8b/b+
3 8b/b+
4 8c
5 7b+

One of the hardest multi-pitch lines in France.

Set: Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, 2012

FA: Cédric Lachat, 20 Oct 2016

1 7c+
2 8a
1 7c
2 8a
3 8b

Set: Christophe Louis & Elie Morieux

FA: Sébastien Bouin

Set: Antonin Rhodes

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 5 Aug 2020

Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2019

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 29 Apr 2022

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Bruno Clément

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9782957691906

A comprehensive guidebook describing all of the rock climbing in the Verdon Valley, covering both single pitch and multi-pitch routes

Author(s): Philippe Légier

Date: 2022

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

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