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Summary

Small crag close to the city. Surprisingly good routes and not too used (as e.g. some other crags close to the city).

Description

The crag is easily accessible and therefore also usable for a half day or quick evening spin. Majority of routes are in 5c-6b grades. Some are quite used but are still very good and mostly of high quality with good bolting. Base is mostly flat and grassy. You will definitely have some hikers or bikers coming by and watch what you’re doing.

Access issues inherited from France

As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Approach

Park at the big Parking Champ de Mars (free Sundays) cross the street and hike up the Rue des Salettes. When the street makes a sharp bend and a gravel road begins continue that gravel road (signs via Ferrata). Some people park here too, but officially the road is only for people living there, so to avoid access issues it’s recommended to not park here. Continue the gravel road past the second via ferrata sign and in the sharp bent continue straight on a smaller garvel path. Continue until you reach the base of the crag.

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Check https://www.gouvernement.fr/en/coronavirus-covid-19 for COVID-19 restrictions currently in place.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Flowy and technical climb over beautiful orange/red rock. Rather used at the start but still good.

Nice hand jamming fissure with some jugs and edges added in. Current guidebook says 6b, but since the rock is rather used and though very slippery IMHO 6c is more appropriate.

1 4c
2 6a

Sadly very polished.

Lovely technical climb with a few cruxy sections

Airy climb up the ramp and then a bit pumpy/cruxy around a bulge. Not boring despite the low grade. Perfect to clear the head on lead. 😉

name written on base

Name written at base

Name written at base. There are two variants. From the French belay in the top part. Straight up a fierce short boulder over the tiny roof (glue-ins) is 6c/6c+. Left is supposed to be 6b, but ppl said it’s not really easier.

Crux is easier for the tall. Name written at base.

starts on the right corner of a slightly overhanging face. Name written on rock. Ends at the first (french) belay of Gamma Globuline

A bit strange route. One hard move to establish on the top slab. Name written on base.

Name at base. Starts in the back of the corner and crosses/shares the start with the 5bish dihedral. And goes up right past a nice prominent small wall. Rather used and polished.

Powerful bouldery route up the right part of the orange overhang. Guess it’s easier for larger climbers.

Second to last route on the right side of the orange rock. Start up a ramp and after some crimps on an orange wall finish up easily.

Pumpy, athletic route with technical passages between jugs. The topout is the “choisi”.

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