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Summary

The climbing village

Description

Topo : Orpierre et Pays du Buëch, FFME, 2016. 280 pages. 26€

Orpierre is convenient and popular destination with more than 600 routes from 3a to 8c. It features sectors ranging from single pitch to long routes , all safely equipped and within walking distance of the campsite. It's no wonder that Orpierre is ever-popular, even if some of the routes feel more than a little polished.

The town is a model for well-managed sport climbing areas: routes are very well bolted, there are car parks and signs for climbers everywhere, the tracks are maintained, routes are checked and rebolted often.

You'll find a climbing shop, a mini-market and plenty of accomodations in Orpierre.

Access issues inherited from France

As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Approach

The climbing areas are just a short walk from the town, there's no need to drive anywhere. All crags are very well sign-posted and finding them is mostly a matter of starting in the right place and following them.

For Chateau (left): from the upper car park next the cemetery, a path leads off from the corner.

For Chateau (right), Cascade and Belleric: from the lower of the two car parks next to the cemetery, follow the path next to the river.

For Quiquillon: it can be approached by skirting a path along the base from Belleric, there are few steep section on via ferrata. Alternatively, follow a signed path up from Paradis parking area. It's also possible to park at l'Adrech and follow a path from there.

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Check https://www.gouvernement.fr/en/coronavirus-covid-19 for COVID-19 restrictions currently in place.

History

History timeline chart

Orpierre's climbing history starts in 1983 when Dominique Jugy and Pierre-Yves Bochaton bolt the first modern routes. With the help of mayor Raymond Chauvet, they bet on sport climbing to bring new life to the village. Today, Orpierre is also known as "le village qui grimpe" ("the climbing village").

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