Ascents in Castellane - Les Gorges du Verdon

6a A0 version for me, usual couldn’t pull the start with backpack. Very traddy, lot of crack and chimney climbing. Possibly you can use gear to reduce the runouts - we took a set of nuts but I left them with Cedric on the pitch I found most scary - 5? Second 6a pitch I think. Pitch 2/3? (2 5c chimney pitches) easy to link, last two also just inside 60m. 2 or 3 pitches were sunny or sunny belays but otherwise shade.

Took some beginner friends. Very nice afternoon out though a bit sun exposed for this weather. I linked some pitches in the top half but 5-6 (I think) was very draggy and 8-9 (to the end) I had to absolutely stretch rope to get to the anchor, so don’t recommend linking.

Somewhat technical and vertical start followed by an easy series of ledges

Frustratingly short crack route but easiest in this sector

Simple route with some layback moves in a crack

The start of noir de préférence but finishes by traversing left to the anchor of ris

Nice long route to the right of a big dihedral. Old school climbing

Amazingly long route that zig zags it's way up the diagonal cracks. A bit pumpy at the end

Diagonal crack route

Voie exceptionnelle. 50 mètres.

Went out with a local guide Philippe. Super short approach, 5min drive from La Palud and 2 min walk from the lookout. Recent route, bolted in 2015 in between some classics. First pitch was mega long, pumped out near the end and rested before the finish. Phillipe shouted out his phone was ringing as he seconded up. I took the rope in while he answered questions in a radio interview about the verdon! Rain started to pick up near the end of the climb. Couldn't pull the crux move on the last pitch on first go, rested and the wall became soaked. Luckily, friends who had just topped out threw down a top rope and helped me through the last 10m in the pouring rain. Safe to say, Phillipe was freezing down at the belay.

Mix of routes L1 : la derobee L2-3 : new unkown route L4 : rasoir L5 : gros lards

Magnifique, resi physique sur petites colos et inversées. 2 essais. 8c+/9a.