Forum
Photos
Help

Castellane - Les Gorges du Verdon Guide

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 21
  • Ascents: 950
  • Aka: Parc naturel régional du Verdon

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Castellane - Les Gorges du Verdon 1,526 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.783691, 6.229011

summary

Le parc naturel régional du Verdon s'étend sur 188 000 hectares dans les départements des Alpes-de-Haute-Provence et du Var. (source: wikipedia)

description

Le Verdon dispose de 933 voies d'escalade, dont la falaise verticale de l'escalès de 300 mètres, la plus haute gorge d'Europe. Les grimpeurs, les vautours et le paysage constituent donc un spectacle indissociable pour les touristes... (source: wikipedia)

access issues

As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Check https://www.gouvernement.fr/en/coronavirus-covid-19 for COVID-19 restrictions currently in place.

inherited from France

1.1. Les Gorges du Verdon 1,470 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.762075, 6.222115

summary

Classic exposed sport climbing in a beautiful natural setting.

description

The deepest limestone canyon in France and often considered the most beautiful in Europe. It's about 25km long and 700m deep in some places, adding plenty of exposure to the more than 1,500 routes (from 5a to 9a+) that have made its reputation worldwide. The area is popular for its sustained multi-pitches, classic single pitches and for its natural beauty.

Topo : Verdon 2017 - 52 ans et 520 voies au Verdon, FFME 04, 2017. 338 pages. 28€

Aiguines, Verdon rive gauche, Philippe Bugada, 2012. 160 pages. 20€ http://www.lacorditelle.info/comfr/index.php?NoIDRub=45

access issues

The gorges are the home of a few protected bird species. Some areas may be closed during nesting season.

approach

You will need a car to access most routes and areas. The closest town is La-Palud-Sur-Verdon where you'll find a climbing shop, accommodations and a camping site.

Routes are accessed either by abseiling or by walking. Approach time can vary between 5min and 2h.

where to stay

Camping is prohibited in the gorges. Note that the river is managed by EDF (french electricity provider) which operates the dam upstream. Don't stay near the river when water is being released as the level will change rapidly. There have been accidents in the past.

1.1.1. Félines 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.816366, 6.258998

1.1.2. Le Galetas 53 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.800905, 6.253327

1.1.3. Mayreste 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.775472, 6.278550

1.1.4. Main Morte 40 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.766665, 6.321452

1.1.5. Malines 38 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.748309, 6.327311

1.1.6. Imbut 106 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.754382, 6.318502

1.1.7. Eycharme 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.738908, 6.357128

1.1.8. L'Escalès 575 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing, Aid climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.772605, 6.380298

1.1.9. Rive Gauche 467 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.766971, 6.312690

description

The climbs in the south side of the Verdon Gorge.

1.1.10. Fayet 0 routes in Crag

1.1.11. Quinson 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.696023, 6.033317

1.1.12. Col d'Ayen 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.769431, 6.319985

1.1.13. Mirroir du fou 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.752821, 6.364990

description

Petit falaises de 35m de haute

approach

Sur la route D23 des crêtes à 11,5 km de La Palud. Au belvédère de Guègues dans le première parking jusque avant le tunnel.

1.1.14. Valaute Gauche 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.785627, 6.392155

1.1.15. Free Tibet 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.739818, 6.351013

1.1.16. Le bunker 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.793417, 6.401683

1.1.17. Teens 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.788010, 6.407660

1.1.18. La Tête de singe 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.790780, 6.406983

1.2. Esparron de Verdon 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.738407, 5.963359

summary

A tiny deep water solo area for rest days.

description

This is a great swimming spot to cool off in summer and has a few easy DWS lines with potential for more. Rock is not very solid so take care.

approach

Walk 30min from the village car park along the right bank. Set up a hammock and you're in business. Can also be reached by boat (rent one at the port).

1.3. Cadières de Brandis 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.847965, 6.446103

1.3.1. Menhir 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.3.2. Tour Centrale 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

1.3.3. Tour Est 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

1.3.4. Minus 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

1.4. Chasteuil 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.835608, 6.415061

1.4.1. Baba chiffon 0 routes in Sector

1.4.2. Crépuscule des idoles 0 routes in Sector

1.4.3. Ambassadeur 0 routes in Sector

1.4.4. Baisodrome 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.835411, 6.414641

1.4.5. Archimède 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4.6. Arrivée du chemin 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.835598, 6.415851

1.4.7. La Tranche 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.834903, 6.414290

1.4.8. Les Toits 0 routes in Sector

1.4.9. UF2 0 routes in Sector

description

Left from the sector "Toits"

1.4.10. Les 3 Satufiables 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.834814, 6.412878

1.5. Le Teillon 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.833833, 6.572612

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文