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Ouvreur de bouse Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Nans Toullec Julien Nicolas Daniel Vertical Pirate GT Eleo JB Peter Smith RickySpanish Max Foos

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Ouvreur de bouse 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.200031, 5.552220

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

inherited from France
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Une porcelaine dans un magasin d'éléphants

Sixth pitch : you go through a roof in a crack, can be aid climbed (A0) the rest of the pitch worths 6b.

Set: Hervé Guigliarelli

7a+ Sport 100m, 6, 15
2 Tireur de mousse

FA: Alain Dupaquis, Jean-Louis Fenouil & Loïc Valette

7a Sport 100m, 6, 14
3 Bourreur de rousse / Baise-jump

Set: Alain Dupaquis, Jean-Louis Fenouil, Xavier Legendre & Cédric Tassan, 2003

6b Sport 90m, 5
4 Le H il aime

Set: Hervé Guigliarelli

6b Sport 110m, 5
5 Quel que soit X

Start on the median ledge. The actual departure must therefore take place with the first pichtes of "Bourreur de rousse", "Le H il aime" or "Tireur de mousse".

FA: Hervé Guigliarelli

6b+ Mixed trad 110m, 3, 15
6 Le Bitard à Rudiste

L1: Traversée à droite facile puis 1 pas de bloc.

L2: De R1, on voit les deux derniers points de la longueur. Ne pas monter droit vers ces points (mauvais rocher, pas protégé), mais traverser à gauche dans une alcôve, puis montée dans une cheminée verticale.

L3: Traversée ascendante à droite 5b/c puis un pas de bloc.

L4: Enfin ça monte sur du beau grès.

L5: Prendre le Dièdre à droite jusqu'aux relais (laisser ceux de gauche pour bourreur de rousse et ceux qui descendent).

L6: Continuer dans le dièdre entre bourreur de Rousse à gauche et ouvreur de Bouse à droite.

L7: Relais à côté de ouvreur, traversée à gauche horizontalement 10 m puis beau mur de grès

6a+ Sport 130m, 7, 12
7 Ouvreur de bouse

Set: Frédéric Neulet, 1996

6a+ Sport 90m, 5, 12
8 Ouvreur de Bouse - Variante

Set: Frédéric Neulet, 1996

6a Sport 90m, 5, 12
9 Au milieu de nulle part

FA: Emmanuel Neulet & Frédéric Neulet, 1995

Set: Pierre Coquillon, Frédéric Neulet & Gaston Neulet, 1996

Maint: 2017

6a Sport 90m, 5, 12
10 Le bonheur est dans le gré

FA: Jean-Louis Fenouil & Alain Dupaquis

6b Sport 100m, 4, 12
11 Bon grès mal grès 6b Sport 100m, 4, 14
12 Au gré du grès

FA: Jean-Louis Fenouil & Alain Dupaquis

5c+ Sport 100m, 6, 15
13 Dompteurs de cairn

Further infos, topo & photos

FA: Alexandre Pierre & Vertical Pirate, 5 Jun 2018

6b A1 Aid 100m, 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5c+ Au gré du grès Sport 100m, 6, 15
6a Au milieu de nulle part Sport 90m, 5, 12
Ouvreur de Bouse - Variante Sport 90m, 5, 12
6a+ Le Bitard à Rudiste Sport 130m, 7, 12
Ouvreur de bouse Sport 90m, 5, 12
6b Bon grès mal grès Sport 100m, 4, 14
Bourreur de rousse Sport 90m, 5
Le H il aime Sport 110m, 5
Le bonheur est dans le gré Sport 100m, 4, 12
6b A1 Dompteurs de cairn Aid 100m, 5
6b+ Quel que soit X Mixed trad 110m, 3, 15
7a Tireur de mousse Sport 100m, 6, 14
7a+ Une porcelaine dans un magasin d'éléphants Sport 100m, 6, 15
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