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Moi Vouloir Toit

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 8

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from France

As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Routes

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Grade Route

Set: Pierre Rouzo, 1999

Nicknamed the French Chilam Balam for its length and sustained difficulty.

The route was bolted in the late nineties and is made of two parts: The first part (added later) is the extension start. The second part is the original "Les yeux plus gros que le ventre" (which means having eyes bigger than belly).

Description
:

The first roof part is around 20-25 meters and weighs in around 8b+. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope.

Then you have a bouldery crux featuring a one finger pocket to reach another rest. Until here it could be an 8c route.

Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas, and after this a series of bouldery sections: 7A, 7A, 7C+/8A and finally a 7B.

All these boulder problems are amazing. Especially the redpoint crux of the route in the 7C+/8A boulder. There are incredible moves to finish on a tufa dyno.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUX3ORVKjfk

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 3 Apr 2018

Ligne magnifique. Départ dans "les yeux...", milieu inédit avec deux sections pas faciles puis sortie dans "franc toit sournois". Resi/conti de 75 mouvements.

FA: Loic Zehani, 29 Apr

2 sections dures en gros Devers. À gauche de moi vouloir toit.

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