A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Saint-Jean-de-Buèges
65 in Crag
-
1.1.
Roc de Tras castel 54 in Cliff
- 1.1.1. Sérranne 17 in Area
- 1.1.2. Pilier ouest 6 in Sector
- 1.1.3. Pilier du Château 7 in Sector
-
1.1.4.
Face sud 24 in Sector
- 1.1.4.1. Génération Galère 8 in Sector
- 1.1.4.2. Tristes tropiques 5 in Sector
- 1.1.4.3. Oh! les beaux jours 11 in Sector
- 1.2. La Calasse 11 in Cliff
-
1.1.
Roc de Tras castel 54 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Saint-Jean-de-Buèges 65 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.828912, 3.621636
summary
Medieval village with sport climbs at shouting distance
description
Topo : Saint-Jean-de-Buèges Escalades, FFME 34, 2016. 52 pages. 16€
Saint Jean-de-Bueges is a picturesque medieval villagetowered by a reconstructed castle. The massive rock a hundred metres uphill offers two- and three pitch sport routes. Its south face holds long single pitch sport climbs. South of the village at the banks of the Bueges, La Calasse offers shady short climbs with quick approach.
access issues
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
approach
Parking can be an issue within the tourist season. Leave your car south of the village or try the signposted "Escalade"-parking.
ethic
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. Roc de Tras castel 54 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.830390, 3.621615
description
The prominent rock formation looming over the village
1.1.1. Sérranne 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.830577, 3.620814
summary
For the short routes (<30 min) there are around 10 bolts
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Retour au socle | 5b | 25m | |||
| 2 |
★★★ Pied au plancher
Very nice route to warm up. Big holds | 5c | 26m | |||
| 3 |
★ Diviser pour mieux purger
There is one 6b movement in the slab region. | 6a+ | 26m | |||
| 4 | Trou d'air | 6a+ | 26m | |||
| 5 | L'envers du ciel bleu | 6b+ | 25m | |||
| 6 | Comme des gosses | 6c | 25m | |||
| 7 | ★★ L'ex sans trique | 5c+ | 25m | |||
| 8 | Que de troncs à couper! | 6b | 25m | |||
| 9 | ★★ Un instant d'éternité | 6b+ | 25m | |||
| 10 |
★★ Le monde en face
Technical part in the slab region. 3 nice crosses. | 7a | 28m | |||
| 11 | La règle de l'art | 7a+ | 30m | |||
| 12 |
Le sang du calvaire
L1 30, L2 20m. Rappel to go down | 7b | 50m, 2 | |||
| 13 |
Séranne ne vois-tu rien venir?
L1 30m, L2 20m | 6b | 50m, 2 | |||
| 14 |
Une fleur dans le paysage
L1 25m, L2 25m | 6c+ | 50m, 2 | |||
| 15 | Paysage dans le brouillard | 6b+ | 25m | |||
| 16 | La fille de l'air | 6c | 25m | |||
| 17 |
Les cueilleurs de temps / La Tierce
Set: Dainat brothers, 1968 | 6b | 40m | |||
1.1.2. Pilier ouest 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.830284, 3.620371
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Métropolis | 6a | 25m | |||
| 2 |
Quai des anges
L1 25m, L2 20m, L3 30m, L4 10m | 7b | 85m, 4 | |||
| 3 | Patience dans l’Azur | 6c | 3 | |||
| 4 | L’Air du Sud | 7a+ | 3 | |||
| 5 |
Le premiere qui s'endort réveille l'autre
L1 40m, L2 45m | 7a | 85m, 2 | |||
| 6 | ★★★ Les Clochards célestes | 6a+ | 80m, 3 | |||
1.1.3. Pilier du Château 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.829774, 3.620664
description
Triangular rock buttress facing the castle with well equipped 1-3 pitch sport climbs. Sunny all day. Wear a helmet.
approach
From the village, weave your way up to the castle and the 3 more minutes to the base of the climbs.
descent notes
When the climbs are busy, from the top of the buttress rappel off the south face (10 m + 35 m), then descent following signs and chains. If you are alone on the face, rappelling over the route may be more convenient.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Le coup de grisou
Leftmost route in this sector | 6a | 75m, 3 | |||
| 2 |
La fosse aux serments
Joins its right neighbour at anchors | 6a | 35m, 9 | |||
| 3 |
★★ L'ombre du chasseur
starts at orange spot over crumbly ledge | 6a | 95m, 3 | |||
| 4 | Alter ego | 6a | 75m, 3 | |||
| 5 | Ça se discute | 6b | 75m, 4 | |||
| 6 | Pénicilline ou chevrotine | 5c | 35m, 2 | |||
| 7 | Le mouton enragé | 6a | 35m, 2 | |||
1.1.4. Face sud 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.830510, 3.622474
description
As the name implies, this sector catches the sun almost all day (hardly any shade at the base) while still getting its fair share of the winds. It offers long (30-40 m) single pitch routes, a long rope comes in handy (intermediate anchors and the solid glue-ins let you get along with a shorter rope, too). The base doesn't offer too much space; especially the rightmost routes of "Oh! les beaux jours " are unsuitable for kids.
approach
From the castle, follow faint trail below the south face almost to its end, where the path winds up and leads back towards the western sectors.
1.1.4.1. Génération Galère 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Les infaillibles | 7a+ | 40m | |||
| 2 | Là bas si j'y suis | 7b+ | 35m | |||
| 3 | L'inrockuptible | 7b | 35m | |||
| 4 | Génération galère | 7a+ | 40m | |||
| 5 | Fer de lance | 7b | 40m | |||
| 6 | L'aigle à deux têtes | 6c | 40m | |||
| 7 | Synergie | 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 8 | Bleu mais pas saignant | 6b | 40m | |||
1.1.4.2. Tristes tropiques 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tristes tropiques | 6c | 40m | |||
| 2 | Le doute et le silence | 6c+ | 40m | |||
| 3 | ★★★ Voleur de hasard | 5c | 45m | |||
| 4 | La loi du talion | 6a | 45m | |||
| 5 | Brelan de femmes | 5c | 45m | |||
1.1.4.3. Oh! les beaux jours 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ A tout coeur | 6a+ | 40m, 2, 10 | |||
| 2 | Le paranoîaque | 6b+ | 40m, 2, 11 | |||
| 3 | ★ Harricana | 6b | 40m, 2, 10 | |||
| 4 | ★★★ Exception de nullité culturelle | 6c | 40m, 2, 10 | |||
| 5 | ★★ Déroute à Beyrouth | 6b | 33m, 2, 12 | |||
| 6 | ★ Quand faut y aller, faut y aller | 5c+ | 28m, 2, 9 | |||
| 7 |
★ vous avez dit classique
dihedral above the thuja. One of the few places of shade for the belayer in the sector. | 5b | 30m | |||
| 8 | Oh! les beaux jours | 6a | 32m, 2, 10 | |||
| 9 | ★ Xénon le xénophobe | 5c | 25m | |||
| 10 |
★ terminus les etoiles
Set: olivier, 20 Oct 2014 | 5b | 25m | |||
| 11 | ★★ Un train peu en cacher un autre | 4c | 26m, 8 | |||
1.2. La Calasse 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.826884, 3.621746
description
Small cliff with afternoon sun with well protected beginners and mid-grade climbs.
Route numbers are faintly written at base.
approach
Coming from south towards St.-Jean-de-Bueges, follow the footpath that branches off right from the main road just before the bridge. Follow for 3 min.
Don't attempt to approach from the parking on the other side of the river - this approach is inaccessible due to private property.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Petit papa baston / 1
Leftmost route | 4a | 15m, 11 | |||||
| 2 | ★ Between 1 and 2 | 4b | 6 | |||||
| 3 | ★ La nuit des blaireaux / 2 | 4a | 16m, 6 | |||||
| 4 | ★★ Du sirop pour les guèpes / 3 | 6b | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Ta chance s'appelle demain
Between 3 and 4 | 6b | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 | ★★ La pression monte / 4 | 6c | 15m, 8 | |||||
| 7 | ★★ Punch et autorité / 5 | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 8 | ★ Correspondance spéciale / 6 | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 9 | ★★ La reprise n'est pas en vue / 7 | 6a | 17m, 5 | |||||
| 10 | ★ La saga de Thorngull / 8 | 5b | 17m, 7 | |||||
| 11 | Népomucène entre en scène | 3c+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
