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Description

Please consider buying the guidebook "Topo d'escalade Bléone - Durance at the library in Volx (24€), 2016"

Volx is an historic destination for sport climbing. In the eighties, the main cave was a training gym for all the strong French climbers and was an international venue for extreme (at the time) sport climbing grades. The area is seeing less visitors these days but is still worth a visit, especially on rainy days since it's so well sheltered.

Access issues inherited from France

As of 2020, some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Approach

The crag is visible from the village, it's all the way up! Streets in Volx are narrow, coming with an RV is not a good idea. There's a car park in rue Pierre et Marie Curie. From there walk 5min up La Montée de la Cappellane to reach the main cave. Follow the track left (Plus Belle La Vie) or right (all other) to access the other sectors.

Where to stay

Stay in Volx or Manosque which has many different types of accommodations and is a quick 15min ride by car.

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Check https://www.gouvernement.fr/en/coronavirus-covid-19 for COVID-19 restrictions currently in place.

History

History timeline chart

In 1989 Ben Moon freed the 5th 8c in the world here, calling it the Maginot Line in reference to a French military disaster. The French locals had been trying (and were close) to send the route when Ben snatched the FA. The route was later renamed Le Plafond (the roof).

In 2014 Adam Ondra onsighted Le Super Plafond 8c+ (placing all the quickdraws), an extension of Le Plafond going into Terminator and opened by JB Tribout in 1994.

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Volx.

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