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Description

Most likely what you came for? This is where all the classic overhanging (and polished) lines can be found.

Probablement ce pour quoi vous êtes venus à Volx? La grotte regorge des lignes deversantes les plus classiques (et patinées) du coin.

Access issues inherited from Volx

No climbing over Christmas as the cave is used by the town for festivities.

Approach

5min from the carpark. At the end of Montée des Capellane. You can't really miss it.

Au bout de la montée de Cappellane. Inmanquable.

Ethic inherited from Volx

Pick up your trash and your dog's poo. Be nice with residents. Avoid bird nestings.

Routes

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Grade Route

The west part of the cave (left when you face it). Gets the sun until 5PM. Easy access and kids friendly area. Take a 60m rope.

A boulder move that will make you doubt! (broken hold?)

Set: Laurent Jacob

A hard move that makes the route more intense.

Set: Laurent Jacob

Not too steep but lacking holds...

Set: Laurent Jacob

A harder variation to Scandale.

Set: Laurent Jacob

Some reachy moves.

Set: Laurent Jacob

Keep some for the end. Big moves on tufas, some crimps and a good rest in-between.

Set: Laurent Jacob

A popular warm up to get acquainted with the style of climbing in the cave. Polished.

Set: Laurent Jacob

Cruisy with one moderately hard move on an undercling (that you can skip). Well bolted.

Set: Laurent Jacob

Start on the left of the boulder (the name of the route is marked under the first bolt). Cruisy until a good rest, followed by a right-trending cruxy sequence.

Set: Laurent Jacob

Fun. One hard move to the top. Good rests in-between. Polished. Bien lustrée. Crux en haut mais de bons repos pour se refaire si besoin.

Set: Marco Troussier

This is the business. Where all the steepest routes are.

Hard...

Set: Marco Troussier

A hold has broken. Bouldery. Go straight up into the dihedral.

Set: Marco Troussier

Not often repeated despite some great moves.

Set: Laurent Jacob

A must.

Set: Robert Cortijo

Beautiful route with a fingery section.

Sustained.

Set: Marco Troussier

Starts on the easy juggy slab leading to a gulley. A steep classic of the cave with a crux guarding the top.

A bit of a core move to start.

Set: Marco Troussier

Set: Robert Cortijo

One of the longest lines here.

Explosive start where feet often come off.

Set: Marco Troussier

Set: Marco Troussier

Almost legendary. Another classic of the cave.

Set: Robert Cortijo

Very pretty line with a tufa to finish. Some say a bit committing at the top.

Set: Marco Troussier

Hard start and finger. All the best climbers used to try this route.

Set: Marco Troussier

Two big dynos.

Set: Robert Cortijo

Hard sloppers on a left-trending traverse. Hard move to finish.

Variation of L'Arche de Nausée with a finish straight in the hole.

Big compact overhang.

Set: Robert Cortijo

FA: JB Tribout, 1994

The route that made this place an international venue. In 1989, no 8c had been red pointed yet. French climber Alex Duboc was pretty close from sending but it's the British powerhouse Ben Moon who finally snatched the first ascent.

Ben originally named the route Maginot Line in reference to a French strategic defeat during World War II, when the Germans successfully invaded France by going around the French defence line.

In 1994, JB Tribout frees the extension and names it "La Lune dans le Caniveau" (Now "Super Plafond") which is a ridiculous translation of "Ben Moon" in French ("The moon in the sewer").

Set: Robert Cortijo

FA: Ben Moon, 1989

Start on the boulder and step all the way to the left. The tufa leads to the chains.

Set: Marco Troussier

Keep going all the way to the top...

A short and intense boulder problem. Better like drop knees.

Set: Marco Troussier

Careful walking to the start of this one. Complicated and bouldery.

Set: Marco Troussier & Robert Cortijo

Set: Robert Cortijo

Some easier routes with a perfect view on the village below.

A popular easy warm up on polished holds.

Set: Reynaud & Delalonde

A newer addition that is worth a go.

A pebble indicates the start but its marking is gone. A very cool pockety finish.

Set: Reynaud & Delalonde

Look for a little pebble marked "La Clara" for the start. Nice and safe. Watch for loose rocks, especially if you're belaying.

Set: Robert Vial

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