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Frankenjura

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 192
  • Ascents: 31,144
  • Aka: Franconian Jura
  • Aka: Frankenalb
  • Aka: Fränkische Alb

Seasonality

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Description

Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.

The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.

Access issues

Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/zonierung.php

For seasonal closures of crags, see: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/sperrungen.php

For bouldering, check first: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/boulderappell-frankenjura-fichtelgebirge.php. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.

Approach

The crags are scattered all over the area, so having a car is recommended.

Where to stay

Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.

History

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A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.

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Routes

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Please help locate me correctly. So far best info "in Frankenjura" This is part of an effort to document the hardest Boulders, in this case historically the second established 8C in the world.

FA: Markus Bock, 2002

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