Ascents in Bärenbrunner Tal

I should have onsighted this one but I missed the spot just before the crux where I should have traversed a bit to the left and tried to go straight instead. Very nice climbing, well protected - only the first bolt is a bit high but the climbing up to there is easy.

Very nice climbing on honeycomb structures

It was so hot in the full sun that I didn't want to try again.

Could not find a spot to place a nut in the thinner part of the crack before running out of power. I should have just gone on to the wider part of the crack. Very nice route.

Nice chimney. Probably easier than 6, but certainly a tricky one.

Tough one! I didn't climb the actual start, but started right into the second half from the last bolt of "Direkter Plattenweg". Powerful overhang which I attacked a little to the right of the ring to do a big rockover on the left foot above the bolt. Then a few meters of nothingness in a terribly shallow dihedral (if you can even call it that). Sketchy moves first lead a little to the left (to gain a mediocre crimp), then again to the right. Foot even popped off at one point and I have no Idea how I stuck to the wall.

Not sure what's "direct" about the line, but I guess the original traversed in from even further right via "Talkante". Relatively straightforward climbing, but an interesting path along the weaknesses of the rock. From the bolt below the overhang, you originally walk over the ledge to "Nordschlucht". I was told the finish up top from there was 6-. Which I doubted already when looking at it, but still I tried. Turned out to be "Luftikus".

A nice stroll after I've tried bouldering the direct start. A bit chossy like most routes here, but still worthwhile, a good line and sensibly protected.

No chance on this one. Two slanting fingertip sloper crimps and a long move to a bad sloper with a slight pocket. Tried a few things, found an option with a fragile structure, but it broke (sorry). I saw others climb it later that day, looked much harder than what the grade suggests (but also tricky).

Not as brittle as the name might suggest … except maybe the upper third. Quite long and the protection is sensible. Interesting section over the little overhang. A decent climb as long as it's clean.

The better option actually. Especially now that it has been cleaned quite a bit. Climbed it #barefoot because my feet already hurt quite a bit, but actually shoes would have helped in the crux over the bulge, which only added to the pain. Nice easy dihedral to the top (which actually would have also been the finish of the original "Pfaffenwand" it seems).

Striking line, but only mediocre climbing. Brittle, overhanging crack dihedral. There's an anchor halfway up around the corner on the left, although I'm not sure why. The bolt is also quite useless, two yellow cams are the much better option.

Took a wrong turn because the description in the guidebook was obviously incorrect. Climbed on for a few meters before I realised it; too late to back off at that point, so I struggled my way up the utter choss. Half a first ascent, but I wouldn't recommend any repeats.

Awesome long route through the central part of the wall. The toughest moves are before the first ring, there's a good fit for a yellow cam, but it's quite low, maybe place something on the right and extend. Speaking of extending bolts: I didn't quite do that enough in the upper part, didn't have enough slings on me, so my attempt to climb it in one go was hindered quite a bit by rope drag, although I eventually succeeded.

The upper part is good (apparently there's a newer ring up there, too, which helps a lot) but you have to get past the rooflet in the middle, which is a bit of a showstopper after the already demanding slab dihedral in the beginning. The bolt at the rooflet doesn't inspire a lot of confidence and neither does the rock quality in that part of the wall. Also, after you've heaved your body over the lip, you still have to do a few sketchy moves with mediocre protection (placed a green cam) before you reach the ledge.

Today too hot and slippery. Direkter Einstieg und Ausstieg im Vorstieg,OS.