Help

Frankenjura

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 254
  • Ascents: 33,518
  • Aka: Franconian Jura
  • Aka: Frankenalb
  • Aka: Fränkische Alb

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Frankenjura is a world famous climbing destination hosting many classics that are listed in climbing history books. Its sheer size and variety of climbs offer a lifetime of climbing.

Description

Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.

The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.

Access issues

Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/

For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/

For bouldering, check first: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.

Approach

Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.

Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.

Where to stay

Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.

History

History timeline chart

A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.

Tags

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
Closed

Please help locate me correctly. So far best info "in Frankenjura" This is part of an effort to document the hardest Boulders, in this case historically the second established 8C in the world.

This boulder was vandalized / destroyed in early 2020. Holds were hammered off, making this piece of climbing history unrepeatable...

FA: Markus Bock, 2002

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Frankenjura.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文