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Nördlicher Frankenjura

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Summary

Frankenjura is a world famous climbing destination hosting many classics that are listed in climbing history books. Its sheer size and variety of climbs offer a lifetime of climbing.

Description

Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area in northern Bavaria, between the cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nuremberg, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.

The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.

Limestone – not very sharp. Good Variety and often with pockets.

Mostly single pitch sport climbing, but not always well-protected. Nuts and slings can be very useful.

Access issues

Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/zonierungen/

For seasonal closures of crags, see: https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/

For bouldering, check first: https://ig-klettern.org/klettern/wissenswertes/boulderappell/. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Coming from abroad it is probably best to fly into Munich and rent a car. As the crags are spread out over a fairly large area having a car is strongly recommended anyways.

Check the many crags for more detailed information on access.

For a detailed description on how to reach Frankenjura by fair means visit the Ecopoint Web-Site.

The Frankenjura covers a big area; it depends where you want to climb and where you want to have your "base camp". The main city Nürnberg in the south west offers airport and railway connections to many crags. Public transport: VGN is your only option.

These are the important railway connections for this area:

  • R3 to Hersbruck, Neuhaus and Pegnitz
  • R4 to Amberg via Hersbruck, Etzelwang
  • S1 to Hartmannshof via Hersbruck
  • R21 Gräfenberg
  • R2/S1 to Bamberg voa Forchheim
  • R22 from Forchheim to Ebermannstadt

Then you have to change to bus or bicycle. The valley of the Pegnitz, for example, can be reached by using the R3.

Overview map

Some areas, however, are poorly connected with public transport (not much has happened since the middle ages). Most people have a car to travel around.

Where to stay

Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.

Camping

The website of the Tourismuszentrale Fränkische Schweiz lists all camp grounds.

Ethic

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

History

History timeline chart

A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.

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Routes

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Closed

Please help locate me correctly. So far best info "in Frankenjura" This is part of an effort to document the hardest Boulders, in this case historically the second established 8C in the world.

This boulder was vandalized / destroyed in early 2020. Holds were hammered off, making this piece of climbing history unrepeatable...

FA: Markus Bock, 2002

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

Date: 2021

Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

Date: 2021

Band 2 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6500 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 1 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura ...

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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