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Seasonality
Description
Limestone – not very sharp. Good Variety and often with pockets.
Mostly single pitch sport climbing, but not always well-protected. Nuts and slings can be very useful.
Access issues
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
Please respect signs and zoning.
Approach
The Frankenjura covers a big area; it depends where you want to climb and where you want to have your "base camp". The main city Nürnberg in the south west offers airport and railway connections to many crags. Public transport: VGN is your only option.
These are the important railway connections for this area:
- R3 to Hersbruck, Neuhaus and Pegnitz
- R4 to Amberg via Hersbruck, Etzelwang
- S1 to Hartmannshof via Hersbruck
- R21 Gräfenberg
- R2/S1 to Bamberg voa Forchheim
- R22 from Forchheim to Ebermannstadt
Then you have to change to bus or bicycle. The valley of the Pegnitz, for example, can be reached by using the R3.
Some areas, however, are poorly connected with public transport (not much has happened since the middle ages). Most people have a car to travel around.
Where to stay
Camping
The website of the Tourismuszentrale Fränkische Schweiz lists all camp grounds.
Ethic
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
History
- 1905 the group "Rifflerbuben" climb the last tower ("Bolzenstein").
- 1960 Oskar Bühler invented the "Bühlerhaken" – father of glue-in bolts
- 1974 definition of "redpoint" by Kurt Albert † and friends
- 1991 "Action Directe" by Wolfgang Güllich † – first UIAA 11 route
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