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Frankenjura Nord

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 166
  • Ascents: 28,626
  • Content Quality: Medium
  • Aka: Nördliche Frankenalb

Seasonality

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Summary

The biggest sport climbing area in Germany.

Description

Limestone – not very sharp. Good Variety and often with pockets.

Mostly single pitch sport climbing, but not always well-protected. Nuts and slings can be very useful.

Access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

The Frankenjura covers a big area; it depends where you want to climb and where you want to have your "base camp". The main city Nürnberg in the south west offers airport and railway connections to many crags. Public transport: VGN is your only option.

These are the important railway connections for this area:

  • R3 to Hersbruck, Neuhaus and Pegnitz
  • R4 to Amberg via Hersbruck, Etzelwang
  • S1 to Hartmannshof via Hersbruck
  • R21 Gräfenberg
  • R2/S1 to Bamberg voa Forchheim
  • R22 from Forchheim to Ebermannstadt

Then you have to change to bus or bicycle. The valley of the Pegnitz, for example, can be reached by using the R3.

Overview map

Some areas, however, are poorly connected with public transport (not much has happened since the medieval ages). Most people have a car to travel around.

Where to stay

Camping

The website of the Tourismuszentrale Fränkische Schweiz lists all camp grounds.

Ethic

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

History

View historical timeline

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Activity

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