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Ascents in Frankenjura Nord

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Tue 24th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
6- Bieringerverschneidung - with Christoph Rauch Sport 25m Good
bk201
Mon 23rd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Hexenküche back
6A Sad Lisa Boulder 3m Good
Denis Blum
6C+ Phantom Lord Boulder 3m Very Good
Denis Blum
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Immer-Höher-Turm
6+ Trebberla - with Christoph Rauch Sport 13m, 4 Good
bk201
3 Südostwand - with Christoph Rauch Sport 14m, 3 Good
bk201
1 Bergseite - with Christoph Rauch Trad 13m
bk201
5 Südwand - with Christoph Rauch Sport 13m, 2 Good
bk201
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
6- Bieringerverschneidung

Did this ascent in full darkness with head lamp on. The crux is on the first bolt. Sat there to figure out the holds and footholds in the dark and slided off with my feet one time almost over the crux.

- with Ellen
Sport 25m Good
monolith
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Immer-Höher-Turm
5 Südwand - with Ellen Sport 13m, 2
monolith
6+ Trebberla - with Ellen Sport 13m, 4
monolith
6 Aller Anfang ist schwer

The crux is over the second bolt.

- with Ellen
Sport 13m, 3 Good
monolith
3 Südostwand - with Ellen Sport 14m, 3
monolith
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
6- Bieringerverschneidung

Really tricky dihedral climbing, rewarding but challenging. Nuts and cams helpful, the bolts are quite spaced. Nowadays, the second pitch is unclimbable, it's just a pile of dirt and vegetation (and the interesting part is probably over, anyway).

- with bk201
Sport 25m Good
Christoph Rauch
7 Sackwand

From the belay of "Bieringerverschneidung", traverse right and up to the overhanging dihedral. The traverse is a bit bold, less bolts than there were pegs in the old days. Crux at the beginning of the overhanging dihedral, then beautiful jugs to the top. Had quite the epic in the end, but luckily we didn't get benighted on the route. #lastrouteoftheday

- with bk201
Sport 25m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Immer-Höher-Turm
1 Bergseite

Quite like a big mossy staircase. Relaxed, but not entirely trivial.

Trad 13m
Christoph Rauch
5 Südwand

Nice #warmup. Diagonally up left after the first bolt to the ledge, then a few nice moves over the bulge to the top.

- with bk201
Sport 13m, 2 Good
Christoph Rauch
7 Sei Mutisch

Can't really claim the onsight here, I knew that there was a dyno involved. And quite the huge dyno for the grade! Built up momentum as much as I could and barely reached the target jug.

- with bk201
Sport 13m Good
Christoph Rauch
6+ Trebberla

Nice wall climbing. Some hollow structures, but should be fine for another while. Crux at the third bolt. Short people need to take a detour to the left (and should therefore maybe extend the third bolt), but even for me it still felt hard for the grade. The last bulge is also a bit morpho if you don't want to do a bump to the good holds (which aren't visible from below).

- with bk201
Sport 13m, 4 Good
Christoph Rauch
6 Aller Anfang ist schwer

Nice arête with really cool positions. Rewarding.

- with bk201
Sport 13m, 3 Good
Christoph Rauch
3 Südostwand

Nice 3d climbing, quite hard for the grade.

Sport 14m, 3 Good
Christoph Rauch
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Veilbronn Leo Maduschka Gedenkwand
6 Nürnberger Kamin

4th go. By far the hardest "6" I ever did in Frankenjura. You find good bolts, so you can concentrate on the fight. I think they forgot the A-grading^^

Sport Classic
Martin Skalli
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Altbabawand
6 Opas 80ster

I'm sure I've climbed this in the past - logged as onsight since i remember nothing (and maybe onsighted it back in the day)

#warmup

- with Katta
Sport 14m
Konrad
5+ Didaktische Jahresplanung

I'm sure I've climbed this in the past - logged as onsight since i remember nothing (and maybe onsighted it back in the day)

#warmup

- with Katta
Sport 13m
Konrad
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Ebermannstadt Krankenhaus
5C Eingriff Boulder
Moe
6A+ Anfall Boulder
Moe
Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Diebesloch
9- Beavis & Butthead

Fell at the very, very last opportunity due to bad foot placement... arg.

- with Katta
Sport 15m, 5
Konrad
Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Sonnwendwand Left
6 Sonnwendweg

Old classic from shortly after the war. Quite bold through the impressive dihedral to a bolt under the roof. Then traverse to the right below the bolt and up a little dihedral to a little cave with the book. I didn't know that you were supposed to traverse low, so I went up over the little roof and traversed above, which is much harder. After the cave, slightly right and up to a ledge and then up and left to the last bolt of WGG and through the crack to its anchor. Can be done in one pitch, but make sure to extend the bolts massively.

- with Markus
Sport 30m, 6 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Sonnwendwand Forchheimer Sektionswand
7 Ritzenfeger

Natural crack line with a hard start, then much easier to the top. Start below and left of the start of R1 through the obvious crack, cross R1 at the arête, then up along another crack to the anchor.

- with Markus
Sport 13m Good
Christoph Rauch
6+ Wilde Tilde

Nice pocketed slab with one hard section in the middle. #secondascent

- with Markus
Sport 13m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Diebesloch
9- Beavis & Butthead

Great route, great boulder at 2nd bolt followed by endurance until top. AF.

- with Katta
Sport 15m, 5
Konrad
7+ Bonny & Clyde

#warmup #polished

Pocket climbing, stayed right and out of the dihedral. #soft for the grade (7 in the schwertner)

- with Katta
Sport 15m Good
Konrad
7- Ronja

#warmup #polished

Slightly overhanging pocket climbing

- with Katta
Sport 15m, 3 Average
Konrad
Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Steinfelder Wändchen
6 Hänsel und Gretel Sport 8m
Andreass
6 Hut Sport 8m
Andreass
6+ Gulliver Sport 8m
Andreass
7- Momo Sport 8m
Andreass
7- Zufall Sport 8m
Andreass
6+ 3D Sport 8m
Andreass
6+ Rumpelstilzchen Sport 8m
Andreass
7- Kleine Lena Sport 8m
Andreass
7 MM Sport 8m
Andreass
6+ Nix Sport 8m
Andreass
6 Güllepumpe Sport 8m
Andreass
6- Witz Sport 8m
Andreass
Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Neuhauser Wand
6+ 6 Hannes Feistner Gedenkweg Sport 18m Good
Andreass
6- Marienpfeiler Sport 17m, 3 Very Good
Andreass
Fri 20th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubachtal Bleisteine
8+ 8+ to 9- Eraserhead

I had forgotten all the previous betas I had, so here we go again. Bottom part worked out as always, so I fell off in the crux after making a half-assed attempt. Found a beta (another one, that is) that involves rotating my left foot to the right on the slightly polished foothold below the good one, then reaching up for the first bad sloper, shifting the body to the right, grabbing the bad crimp on the right as intermediate, put left foot onto the good foothold and bump up with the right hand to the other sloper. Worked out nicely twice, so I thought I had it settled.

- with Alex
Sport 14m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8+ 8+ to 9- Eraserhead

Got to the crux with what I thought was enough strength left, but messed up. Didn't shift my body enough to the right before grabbing the bad crimp on the right, so I slipped off the sloper crimp on the left when bumping up to the other sloper

- with Alex
Sport 14m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8+ 8+ to 9- Eraserhead

Didn't have any more time so I immediately started again after my failed attempt. Again, reached the crux, tried the same beta again and seemingly made the same mistake. It's so hard to keep it together at that point …

- with Alex
Sport 14m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
5 Kaiserschnitt - with Alex Sport 12m Good
Christoph Rauch
5+ Nordostverschneidung - with Alex Mixed trad 12m, 3 Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Offenbarung

Alex wanted to try this one so I put up the draws. Wasn't even sure if I could do it, didn't remember all of it. I remembered that it was hard to clip the last bolt, though, so I was prepared to fall there. Worked out nicely, though, so I got my style upgrade.

- with Alex
Sport 15m Classic
Christoph Rauch
Fri 20th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Todsfelder Tal Brüchige Wand
7+ Verlorene Leichtigkeit

Strange pseudo-direct line, maybe I have more fun next time, when having a better feeling for the line

Sport 30m Good
Martin Skalli
7- Direkte Südwand, Ausstiegsvariante

Really nice! Awesome rock-quality in the upper part...

Sport Very Good
Martin Skalli
6- Direkte Südwand Sport 30m, 6 Very Good
Martin Skalli
7+ Egloffsteiner Weg

The dihedral at the end is quite tricky

Sport 30m Very Good
Martin Skalli
Wed 18th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wiesentblick
8 Brigittes Kasper Sport 8m Good
Andreass
7+ Kasper Brigitte Sport 8m Good
Andreass
7+ König der Schmarotzer Sport 12m Average
Andreass
7+ Mann in Schwarz Sport 12m Classic
Andreass
6+ Himalaya-Müller Sport 12m Very Good
Andreass
6- Röhn-Karl Sport 12m Very Good
Andreass
6+ June Carter Gedenkweg Sport 12m Very Good
Andreass
Wed 18th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Aalkorber Wände
6+ Schönheitsideal Sport 10m Good
Andreass
8- Jürgen würgen (linke Variante) Sport 18m Very Good
Andreass
7+ 80 C Sport 12m Very Good
Andreass
7 Emanuelle Sport 12m Very Good
Andreass
7- Via Rammler Sport 10m
Johannes Kuschke
6+ Schöner Quicky Sport 10m
Johannes Kuschke
6+ Schönheitsideal Sport 10m Classic
Johannes Kuschke
6+ Venusfalle Sport 18m
Johannes Kuschke
8 Ejakulation Sport 18m Mega Classic
Johannes Kuschke
8 Ejakulation Sport 18m Mega Classic
Johannes Kuschke
8 Ejakulation Sport 18m Mega Classic
Johannes Kuschke
Wed 18th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Matterhornwand
6+ Schleßingerweg

Incredibly steep start for the grade, quite athletic, immediately followed by a technical traverse on small holds. Another short overhang to the belay. Second pitch is a long traverse above the roof along a ledge with good, but chossy footholds and a lot of dirt. Easy, but be careful to test the holds. After the bolt at the end of the traverse, getting to the book is a bit tricky. From there it's the same as "Die Gelbe", so I knew what was coming. Fragile dihedral to another belay, nice crack to the big ledge and the last pitch with good climbing but a lot of choss in the first half. We reached the top in the dark.

- with Raimund, KP
Sport 75m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Wed 18th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Freundschaftsturm
6 Dachlverschneidung - with KP Mixed trad 15m, 3 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Kleines Intermezzo

Great wall climbing along obvious crack lines with a technical crux on small holds in the upper headwall. The boltless crack in the middle can be easily protected with friends (at least a good yellow and pink Dragon cam; if you feel insecure, add a red and green one, too) and a bomber nut (red DMM offset).

- with KP
Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Wed 18th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Weiße Wand
7+ Weißwurst

2nd go. Crux at the end, quite hard for the grade...

Sport 22m Very Good
Martin Skalli
Tue 17th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Ziegenfelder Wände
7 Basic Instinct Sport 15m Classic
Kilian Zotz
Tue 17th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Rote Wand
7- In Liebe für Gundi Sport 20m Average
Kilian Zotz
8- John Lennon Sport 20m Classic
Kilian Zotz
Tue 17th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Diebesloch
7+ Bonny & Clyde Sport 15m Good
Kilian Zotz
7- Ronja Sport 15m, 3 Don't Bother
Kilian Zotz
Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Ankatalwand Untere Ankatalwand
7+ Frankengold Sport 23m Very Good
Philipp Stangl
Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Ankatalwand Obere Ankatalwand
6+ Dirty Dancing Sport 15m Good
Philipp Stangl
6 Fruchtzwerg Sport 15m Good
Philipp Stangl
Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Frankenzirkus
6 Baumarktbohrer Sport 14m Good
Andreass
6 6- Gebiss im Riss Sport 15m Good
Andreass
6+ Flexer Semmler Sport 15m Good
Andreass
6 6/6+ Kalchreuther Festspiele Sport 15m
Andreass
Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Aalkorber Wände
7 Die Geigerin Sport 9m Very Good
Andreass
6+ Venusfalle Sport 18m Classic
Andreass
7+ 80 C Sport 12m Very Good
Andreass
7 7- Mit oder ohne? Sport 8m Good
Andreass
7+ Sackgesicht Sport 8m Very Good
Andreass
Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Rabenfels
7 Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg Sport 27m, 11 Good
Hannes
8- Katalysator Sport 30m, 8 Mega Classic
Hannes
Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Spies Naifertaler Klettergarten
8- Eiszeit

Super hard start on sharp pockets. Couldn't find the right ones in time and had to try again.

- with David X
Sport 8m Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Eiszeit

Lots of bad pockets, almost no positive holds, confusing and also runout at the top: a green dragon cam fits into the break, highly advised.

- with David X
Sport 8m Good
Christoph Rauch
7+ Hollunderweg

Hard for the grade, slopers and small edges, quite different from the other climbs here. Tough after the last bolt, then sloper mantel finish.

- with David X
Sport 12m Good
Christoph Rauch

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 ascents.

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