Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Mühltor | |||||||
6- | ★★ Wenn es sein muss - with Ruben Sachsse | 25m, 6 | |||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Felskirchl | |||||||
4- | ★ Südwestwand - with Ruben Sachsse | 20m | |||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Wand | |||||||
6+ ~7 | ★★★ BB-Verschneidung - with Ruben Sachsse | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Felt like I was fighting for my life.
Hackenabstand wird viel größer am Ende. Größere Friends sind im zweiten Hälfte sehr nützlich.
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Wand | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Jörg-Lehne-Gedenkweg - with Ruben Sachsse | 30m | |||||
7+ ~8- | ★★★ Ikarus - with Ruben Sachsse | 30m | |||||
Felt really hard compared to other 7+ routes that I have tried.
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Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
6- | ★ Direkte Südwand - with Ruben Sachsse | 38m | |||||
7- | ★★ Vorturmroute - with Ruben Sachsse | 8m, 2 | |||||
3 | ★★ Rechte Kaminkante - with Ruben Sachsse | 15m, 3 | |||||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Mühltor | |||||||
7 | ★★ Necronomicon | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
6- | ★★ Wenn es sein muss | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Felskirchl | |||||||
5+ | ★ Westwand | 25m | |||||
8 | Warzenschwein | 20m | |||||
No way
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Mühltor | |||||||
7 | Talseite | 20m | Average | ||||
Puh
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7 | ★★ Münchner Weg | 18m | Don't Bother | ||||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
8 Hard | ★ Schmalspur — 2 attempts | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Alter Schwede
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5+ Hard | ★★ Südostkante | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Triangelturm | |||||||
6- | ★★ Südriss - with StefanK | 32m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Tag am Meer | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★ Riss | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
6- | ★★ Südriss | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Südostkante — 2 attempts | 40m | |||||
Mit einem grünen Freund hats dann doch geklappt ;-)
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5+ | ★ Südriss | 40m, 3 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Wand (2) | 15m, 6 | |||||
3 | ★★ Rechte Kaminkante | 15m, 3 | |||||
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Narrenriss - with KP | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Yet another brilliant line here. 15 meters of (more or less) pure hand crack in the middle. After an easy start, a cruxy, powerful section (long moves on pockets) gets you into the crack. Jam your way up (don't forget to place at least one cam in the boltless part), but keep a little bit of reserve in the tank. The finish looks intimidating and hard at first, but it all turns out well if you keep a bit left.
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6+ | ★★★ BB-Verschneidung - with KP | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A line that could have been cut straight out of an alpine classic. Easy dihedral start, then a smooth, overhanging offwidth with what feels like invisible hands pushing you out. But it doesn't stop there. The crack always stays a little too wide to jam anything properly, but too narrow to climb it as a chimney, so you'll end up using all sorts of tricks to get up. Fantastic piece of climbing (I know, many people would disagree).
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Südostkante - with KP | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beautiful crack line, although it's polished quite dramatically. Crack skills are essential, and even with those, it certainly feels harder than 5+. There's an intermediate anchor about two thirds up, but you can go all the way up, just make sure to avoid loose rock.
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6- | ★ Direkte Südwand - with KP | 38m | ★ Good | ||||
Branches off Südriss into a nasty slab. Not exactly a piece of cake, I don't even think the polish makes so much of a difference.
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7+ | ★★★ Schiefer Riss - with KP | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
An exceptionally proud line, always following the slabby chimney that slowly gets steeper and steeper, then ends in a cave. Exposed crux that forces you out of said cave into the smooth wall. A few hard, powerful moves that demand good foot technique at the same time take you up to a little ledge. From here it's a little easier, straight up to the anchor.
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Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Heiner Koch Gedenkweg, normal | 25m | |||||
Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Südostkante | 40m | |||||
6- | ★ Direkte Südwand | 38m | |||||
5+ | ★ Südriss | 40m, 3 | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Mühltor | |||||||
7 | ★★ A-Kamin — 3 attempts - with Roland Halbig | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Wand | |||||||
8 | ★★ Palast der Winde - with Šárka Uhlířová | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It was a great fight from the bottom to the very top. I recommend to take some cams with you.
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5+ Hard | ★★ Jörg-Lehne-Gedenkweg - with Šárka Uhlířová | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
5+ | ★ Südriss - with Gabriele Marg | 40m, 3 | Average | ||||
3 | Westgrat (SW-Wand Einstieg) - with Gabriele Marg | 50m, 3 | Average | ||||
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Totenvogel - with Stefan | 40m | |||||
Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Steinerne Stadt Spiderline | |||||||
8 ~8+ | Triumpfbogen | 15m | |||||
schön aber sehr hart, eher 7b als 7a
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Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Triangelturm | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Back in the High Life | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 24th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Triangelturm | |||||||
7 | ★ Südwestkante | 27m | ★ Good | ||||
Im Onsight an zwei Stellen nicht klargekommen. Im Nachstieg beim Abbauen ging es dann.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Triangelturm | |||||||
7 | ★★ Wand - with muskelkuchen | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★★ Südwand - with muskelkuchen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 18th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Mühltor | |||||||
7 | ★★ Necronomicon - with muskelkuchen | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mit Schlingen oder Keilen sind die ersten Meter entspannter
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7 | ★★ Prunner Pfeiler, Direkteinstieg - with muskelkuchen | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Vorsicht vorm ersten Haken!
Schon etwas poliert aber noch immer sehr schön.
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Thu 18th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Felskirchl | |||||||
7 | ★★ Elitetreffen - with muskelkuchen | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★★ Westriss - with muskelkuchen | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 18th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Triangelturm | |||||||
6- | ★★ Südriss - with muskelkuchen | 32m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Südostwand - with muskelkuchen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bis zum dritten Haken schönes Rissklettern.
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8- ~7+ | Mogelpackung | 27m | Average | ||||
Lässt sich über Verschneidug ausweichen.
Deutlich einfacher.
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Felskirchl | |||||||
9- | Die rote Hexe | 22m | |||||
7- | ★★ Platte | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Nach Toprope letztes Jahr nun noch im Vortieg geklettert.
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6+ | ★★ Nadelriss | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Invalidenbügel | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 13th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Triangelturm | |||||||
8 | ★★ Beam me up | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Friedrichsruh | |||||||
8- | ★★ New Edition | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8+ | ★★★ Zamomin | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Neue Beta in der Crux. Rechte Untergriffleiste, rechter Fuß nach rechts oben, linker Fuß unten lassen, schlechten Griff links oben, dann erst linken Fuß nach links außen. 👍
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Wand | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Jörg-Lehne-Gedenkweg | 30m | |||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Mühltor | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Heiße Sohle | 35m, 5 | |||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Felskirchl | |||||||
7- | ★★ Platte | 25m | |||||
6+ | ★★ Nadelriss | 15m | |||||
Thu 4th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Triangelturm | |||||||
6 | ★★ Tag am Meer | 30m | |||||
Thu 4th May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
5+ | ★ Südriss | 40m, 3 | |||||
Mon 1st May 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Friedrichsruh | |||||||
8- | ★★ New Edition - with Frithjof Winkelmann | 13m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
9+ Easy | ★★★ Iron Worker — 2 attempts - with Klara R, Frithjof Winkelmann | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second try today, with kneepad (left leg), which made the kneebar before the crux definitely more relaxing. Switched feet to do the last move of the crux (the dynamic bump with the left to the jug).
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9 Hard | ★★★ Die wunderbaren Jahre — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Seemed harder than Iron Worker, but still a very nice route. Beta: at the crux, go left with a low left foot. Right hand into a sidecling pinch, high left foot to go to a crimp up left, then a far move into the good undercling. Still hard after the roof: from the undercling, take a crimp with the right, left foot up, right foot toe hook and then a slight right drop knee to reach a pocket with the left. At the last bolt before the anchor, first take the right hold as a gaston, then, after putting up the right foot, switch to the sidepull.
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9- | ★★★ Pumping Iron - with Fabian Michel | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I only climbed almost to the fourth quick draw. Feels like I need to improve body tension to be able to climb this route. The left foot as a cam in the hole helps above the third QuickDraw. Also I take a good finger hole on the right and a less good hole on the very left. Then left hand to nose and right hand to a better hole as a Gaston.
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8+ | ★★★ Zamomin — 3 attempts - with Fabian Michel | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Worked this time , climbed it in the third try. This time I fell in the lower crux in the first two tries. The upper part was no problem. Feels like I have more endurance but less maximum power compared to last time I climbed it.
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Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Mühltor | |||||||
6- | ★★ Wenn es sein muss | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Felskirchl | |||||||
5+ | ★ Westwand | 25m | Don't Bother | ||||
6+ | ★★ Nadelriss | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6- | ★★ Eibenverschneidung | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6- | ★ Zwei Eier | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Wand | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Jörg-Lehne-Gedenkweg | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Wand | |||||||
10- | ★★★ Mr. Bad Guy | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
my first 10-
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Mon 7th Nov 2022 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Friedrichsruh | |||||||
7+ 8- | Trau dich - with austin | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
7+ 8- | Trau dich - with austin | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
7+ 8- | Trau dich - with austin | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Friedrichsruh | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Zamomin | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6 mal versucht. Bester Versuch, bei zweiter Crux gefallen. Nach dem Untergriff vor dem Zug ans gute Loch keinen Fußwechsel machen. Bei zweiter Crux vom guten Henkel rechts auf Schulter an eckigen Seitgriff statt an Loch-Nase (Seitgriff ist links von Loch-Nase). Dann links hochtreten auf altbekannten tritt. Dann rechts auf riesen tritt der oben schwarze ist. (Rechtes Knie nach innen eingedreht beim treten, wichtig!). Dann links statisch an schlechte mulden leiste rechts höher auf schrägen guten schwarzen tritt (weiterhin Knie nach rechts eingedreht) Dann rechts hoch an gute seitzange (oder ins loch) Dann links an eckigen Henkel, hochtreten und an seitkante verlängern.
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
9- | ★ Müslifrau | 28m | ★ Good | ||||
Crux is a traverse to the left on small holds and very very small feet on a slab. Tried it for a few minutes before deciding that I would need more time than we had left to figure it out.
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Friedrichsruh | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Zamomin | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A bit hard for warming up but since I knew the route already, it was fine.
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9+ | ★★★ Iron Worker | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
4 tries, got really close to sending on 3rd try: I already had the jug after the last crux in my left hand, but somehow slipped out of the hold.
Beta update: after the jump, switch hands in jug, go with right hand to next large hole, cross over with left hand into same hole further in and to the right, then, the right foot being far to the right and the left foot toehooking, skip one hole with the right hand to leave space for the left hand. 2nd hard part: after shaking out, right hand to pocket left of crack, left hand to the top left end of crack, left heelhook on jug, right hand to crimp above the overhanging block, left kneebar, left hand in side-/undercling just next of knee, shake, left hand above right hand (bad hold), right foot far up to the right, release kneebar, far to the right into sidepull pocket with right hand, then into jug with left hand. To reach the chain, first traverse on underclings to the right, then climb the end of Pumping Iron. |
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Prunner Turm | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Südostkante | 40m | |||||
Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Friedrichsruh | |||||||
8- | ★★ New Edition - with Fabian Michel | 13m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ausdauernd und überhängend
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8+ | ★★★ Zamomin - with Fabian Michel | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Am Einstieg rechts kleine Nase Dann links an den Griff mit Punkt drunter. Dann an Henkel links verlängern. Danach nicht links den Henkel vergessen. Mit linker Hand zuerst in den Riss Dann rechts dazu. Rechts treten und oben an den Riss in den Henkel, klippen, Dann rechts drüber vom Henkel hochstehen auf den Henkel überhalb Des Risses, untergriff mit rechts links kurz Zwischengreifen und in gechalkten Henkel Dann rechts ins loch. Leicht hochstehen und klippen. Loch umgreifen, Dann rechts an kleines Loch greifen. Links weiter in Seitgriff. Rechts in Seitgriff, Dann links in doppeltes Loch. Kurz schütteln und klippen. Etwas schütteln rechts in großen Henkel, allerdings die Hand eher rechts platzieren. Links dazu. Links hoch anstehen auf auffällige Nase. Rechts auch den Fuß hoch (wichtig!!). Dann links in loch greifen. Rechts Zwischengreifen an seitleiste. Dann links weit hoch kurz vor Henkel zwischen greifen. Dann hoch an Henkel. Über absatz eher links halten. Dann einfach
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9+ | ★★★ Iron Worker | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
3 tries, beta for reference: first hard part: after clipping, take right two finger hole with index and middle finger as side-/undercling, take sidepull with left, slightly dynamically further to the left to a pocket, right foot high up, jump to good hold with right hand, to hold the swing, turn sideways. Second hard part: after jugs, right hand in pocket left of crack, then left hand at the top left of the crack, right hand to small edge on the right above small roof, left kneebar, left hand above right hand, right foot up to the right, release kneebar, far to the right in good pocket with right hand, put left foot above right foot and go up far with the left to jug.
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9- | ★★★ Pumping Iron | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
8- | ★★ Sacramento - with Fabian Michel | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Die Stelle bei der 4ten exe am Riss ist schwer zumindest, wenn man die Beta noch nicht weiß.
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9- | ★★★ Pumping Iron - with Fabian Michel | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really cool, relatively easy if you don't forget some of the holds.
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8- | ★★ New Edition | 13m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Friedrichsruh | |||||||
8- | ★★ Sacramento | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Last route of the day, perfect beta from Klara
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9- | ★★★ Pumping Iron | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Needed two long tries to figure out a good beta for me, which left me quite exhausted, so I could only climb the route with one break in the middle on my third try. I will definitely be back, it doesn't feel too hard with the right beta.
Beta for later reference: 1st quickdraw best either preclipped or extended (chain of three quickdraws) so it can be clipped from the jug, but the next hold after the jug is also quite good, just a bit far. 3rd to 4th bolt: after jug in crack with left hand, put right hand in crack a bit higher, then left hand up and to the left to smaller but still good hold, right foot in hole, slight drop knee, right hand to nose-like protruding sidepull/undercling, feet to the right, excellent left toe hook in hole, left hand up, right hand a bit higher in very good pinch, left hand lower, cut loose. Ignore good pocket above right hand (at least if not too pumped), instead left hand further up to the leftmost pocket, then right hand two pockets to the right in very good sidepull, drop knee to clip 4th quickdraw by crossing over. Then left (potentially take good pocket in between) quite high in a comparatively small hold, right foot in pocket just to the right of the one which the left hand just vacated, right hand to bad undercling, then quickly and dynamically to jug with the right. |
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8- | ★★ New Edition | 13m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
8 | ★★ Hangl | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One try, read one of the sequences wrong
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Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Friedrichsruh | |||||||
8+ | ★★★ Zamomin - with Maxi | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
#3 go´s. Im zweiten Versuch über der Crux schon am 3-Fingerloch abgeschmiert. Im dritten dann schon zu platt, zur Wiederholung. Tolle abwechslungsreiche Route mit der schwersten Stelle am Ende des steilen Teils.
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8- | Trau dich - with Maxi | 10m | Average | ||||
#1 go. Sau schwerer Einstieg mit hartem Zug vom 2-Fingerloch weg. M.e. keine 7+ oder 8-. Danach leichter bis zum Top.
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Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Süd | |||||||
Altmühltal Prunn Felskirchl | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Hula Hoop | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route, some of the plants (thorns inclusive) get in your way however
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7 | ★★ Elitetreffen | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice crack with hand jams at the beginning (the crack took me two tries, since I'm not good at jamming) and finger pockets on the top
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6- | ★★ Eibenverschneidung | 20m | ★★ Very Good |