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Seasonality

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Summary

Large crag with lots of classic routes that have an alpine feel to them. The rock quality is not as bad as the name suggests, there are some worthwile routes to be found.

Description

With around 35 meters, Brüchige Wand is the largest crag in the Todsfelder Tal and offers some generous lines in the lower grades with alpine feel.

Most routes have been re-equipped over the last few years, but the nature of the classic climbs was kept, so you might want to bring some nuts and slings.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Parking is provided in front of the church in Thuisbrunn. (49.6880141, 11.2498821) From there, walk north past the graveyard and church and then turn right onto the path leading into Todsfeld valley. The crag will be visible after a few minutes. Follow the path until you are directly opposite the wall, then walk down over the small bridge and across the grass. A small path leads up to the foot of the crag. ⛰️ (49.69181, 11.26163)

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Inside the crag – more caving adventure.

FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 29 Sep 2018

FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 2019

FA: Alma

FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer

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