Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 28th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
5+ | Kaminfeger | ||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler | 18m | |||||
Fri 26th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
8+ | ★★ Kleiner Engel | ||||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl | 10m | |||||
7- | ★★ Blizzard - with Boris | 14m | |||||
8- | ★★ Hintermayer Gedenkweg | 14m | |||||
6 | ★★ Staffelei - with Julian | 26m | |||||
6+ | Die Extrameile - with Arno | ||||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl - with Boris | 10m | |||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler - with Martin | 18m | |||||
Thu 25th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6+ | Bambi von hinten | 15m | |||||
5+ ~6- | ★★ Betzensteiner Verschneidung | 20m, 2 | |||||
7- ~7+ | ★ Kurz, aber geil | 6m | |||||
8+ | ★★ Kleiner Engel | ||||||
5+ ~6- | ★★ Betzensteiner Verschneidung | 20m, 2 | |||||
5+ ~6- | ★★ Betzensteiner Verschneidung | 20m, 2 | |||||
6+ | Bambi von hinten | 15m | |||||
Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
7 | ★★ BB-Riss - with asn | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Terrific crack dihedral. The lower part looks intimidating, but it's actually the very finish that almost threw me off. The start can be climbed as a shoulder crack (left arm in) and isn't harder than, say, 6. Then a few meters of good jamming get you up into the dihedral, the size of the footholds decreasing in proportion to the height. Then all of a sudden the jams end and you're left standing on eggshells with barely a hold. There's a good hold out on the right, but that one's hard to spot if you're folded into the dihedral like I was. Managed to stay on the wall and got rewarded with a glory jug in the finishing crack (which is easier). Certainly a test piece (and probably harder than 7?).
|
|||||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl - with asn | 10m | Average | ||||
Quite polished, relatively short, straightforward. The original route apparently went to the left before the top to the last bolt of "Mantlewand".
|
|||||||
6 | ★ Iron Fist - with asn | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Difficult passage to get past the single bolt in the lower part. The bolt on the left (above the belay bolt in the little alcove) in the upper part is misleading, the better holds are on the right (and the route goes up on the right according to old guide books, anyway). Good climbing, a little bold.
|
|||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler - with asn | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Good wall climbing, didn't feel too easy for the grade. A cam or nut after the first bolt is sensible, crux is after the second bolt.
|
|||||||
7- | ★★ Blizzard - with asn | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Athletic climbing at the left end of the overhang. A little forced in the upper part, you're naturally drawn to the left.
|
|||||||
5+ | ★★ Betzensteiner Verschneidung - with asn | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beautiful dihedral, a little polished despite the fact that you have to protect the lower part yourself. Good placements, though. Easy if you're good on your feet. Up the chimney and wall to the left of the big ring at the end.
|
|||||||
Mon 15th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler | 18m | |||||
Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
8- | ★★ Hintermayer Gedenkweg - with Markus Benning | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Easy start to the big ledge. The overhanging dihedral is tricky to manoeuvre, with dropknees and some wide bridging you can get the weight off your hands somewhat, though. Athletic finish on the big sidepulls. Nice one, although a bit short.
|
|||||||
4 | ★★ Nürnberger Weg - with Revo | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great line that has seen a good deal of sweaty hands and dirty feet, judging by the polish. Juggy enough to deal with, though. The only tricky part is the start of the upper part into the slightly overhanging dihedral (the second pitch, so to speak). Nice little narrow chimney at the end.
|
|||||||
Tue 19th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
7- | ★★ Blizzard | 14m | |||||
8- | ★★ Hintermayer Gedenkweg | 14m | |||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl | 10m | |||||
8+ | ★★ Kleiner Engel | ||||||
Sat 2nd Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler - with Kosta und Jeannette | 18m | |||||
6 | ★★ Staffelei - with Kosta und Jeannette | 26m | |||||
5+ | ★★ Betzensteiner Verschneidung - with Kosta und Jeannette | 20m, 2 | |||||
Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler | 18m | Average | ||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
8- | ★★ Hintermayer Gedenkweg | 14m | |||||
6 | ★★ Staffelei | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 27th May 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
4+ | ★ Durstweg - with C.V. | 20m | |||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler - with C.V. | 18m | |||||
6 | ★★ Staffelei - with C.V. | 26m | |||||
Sun 26th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
4+ | ★ Hungerrampe | ★ Good | |||||
6+ | ★ Mantlewand | Don't Bother | |||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Blizzard | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | Bambi von hinten | 15m | Average | ||||
Sat 18th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl - with Simone | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fordert zu guter Klettertechnik heraus. Leider ziemlich poliert.
|
|||||||
4+ | ★ Hungerrampe - with Simone | ★ Good | |||||
Von der Nische über dem "Nürnberger Riss" gerade nach oben geklettert (nach Topo im Schwertner-Führer von 2002).
|
|||||||
Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6+ | Bambi von hinten - with Torsten Schierz | 15m | |||||
Thu 3rd Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6 | ★★ Staffelei | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun!
|
|||||||
4 | ★★ Nürnberger Weg | 23m | |||||
4+ | ★ Durstweg | 20m | |||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun to climb, one fall.
|
|||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler | 18m | |||||
Cool line, but very polished and not very safe.
|
|||||||
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
4+ | Feuerleiter | ||||||
4+ | ★ Durstweg | 20m | |||||
7- | ★★ Blizzard | 14m | |||||
Wed 23rd Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6+ | ★ Mantlewand - with Rainer H. | ★ Good | |||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl - with Rainer H. | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4+ | ★ Hungerrampe - with Rainer H., Aki | ★ Good | |||||
6+ | ★ Mantlewand - with David M. | ★★ Very Good | |||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl - with David M. | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
4+ | ★ Hungerrampe - with David M., Alexandra | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 19th Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
7 | ★ Charlie Brown´s Dream | ★ Good | |||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5 | Zeiserlfänger | ||||||
4+ | ★ Armriss | ★ Good | |||||
5+ | ★ Sommerswing | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
4+ | ★ Hungerrampe - with Peter Zahn | ||||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl - with Peter Zahn | 10m | |||||
6+ | ★ Mantlewand - with Peter Zahn | ||||||
6+ | ★ Mantlewand | ||||||
6+ | Cesnecka | 14m | |||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwand | 10m | |||||
3 | Rampe | ||||||
6- | Slepica (Slepnica) | ||||||
6 | ★ Iron Fist | 20m | |||||
4+ | ★ Hungerrampe | ||||||
Wed 29th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
7+ | ★ Café Ruhestörung | ||||||
Imho 7-. Very dirty pockets at the crux, had to clean first and check out the frightening runout. Not a must-do...
|
|||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Looks like the best line, but is the worst climb there totally polished, dangerous second bolt, no flow at all^^
|
|||||||
6 | ★★ Staffelei | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun climb
|
|||||||
Mon 27th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
7- | ★★ Blizzard | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8- | ★★ Hintermayer Gedenkweg | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
komplizierte, harte Crux
|
|||||||
Fri 8th May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6- | Slepica | Average | |||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
6- 5+ | ★ Sommerswing | ★ Good | |||||
7- | ★★ Blizzard | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8- | ★★ Hintermayer Gedenkweg | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 11th Jun 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
7- | ★★ Unnamed 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Blizzard
|
|||||||
6+ | ★ Bognerwandl | 10m | |||||
4+ | ★ Hungerrampe | ||||||
Sat 1st Jun 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Staffelei | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4+ | ★ Hungerrampe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Wed 1st May 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
4+ | ★ Hungerrampe - with tobi | ★ Good | |||||
Schöne Aussicht. Teilweise schlecht gesichert.
|
|||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler - with tobi | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Vorm ersten Haken abgerutscht und am boden gelandet.
|
|||||||
6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler - with tobi | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Erste beiden Haken vorgeclipt. Dann reiner Vorstieg.
|
|||||||
Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Right | |||||||
6 | ★ Iron Fist | 20m | |||||
3+ | ★ Dohlenweg | 16m | |||||
Annika bis Absatz
|