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UIAA

Seasonality

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Summary

High south west face with an alpine touch.

Description

Some worthwhile classics high above Egloffstein. The rock quality is mixed, wearing a helmet is highly recommended. Especially the highest portion of the wall is quite chossy.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Either park at the big parking lot (49.699200, 11.264834) or at the open air swimming pool (49.7023296, 11.2620556) in Egloffstein. Then walk along Badstraße and follow the branch of it that leads uphill (north; marked hiking trail red bar on white base) and turns into a forest path after the last houses. Follow this path for around 500 meters. You can see the base of the crag on your right up the hill. There is a faint track leading up to a path with some wooden steps.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: D. Zelnhefer & R. Weiß, 1957

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1978

FA: Paul Schellhorn, 1957

FA: Werner Scharl & Kurt Albert †, 1969

FA: W. Kreutzer, 1933

FA: H. Kappel & P. Mauser, 1970

FA: Fritz Teifel & F. Fach, 1935

FA: Hans Bieringer, 1928

The Master himself agreed the name

FFA: Bernd Arnold, 1989

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