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Summary
Limestone
Two shady walls; great routes in the 8th grade UIAA in smooth, black rock in the right part of the lower wall, somewhat alpine lines with some loose sections at the upper wall.
Description
Always shady
North
North East
The wall – more so the eponymous aid route in the upper wall – is named after Fritz Teifel, a Franconian climber from the 20s and 30s. Nowadays, most people only climb at the lower wall, which has the better rock quality. Almost all the climbs in the lower part are worthwhile.
Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
Please respect signs and zoning.
Approach
10-20 min
Drive from Muggendorf towards Sachsenmühle. Shortly before reaching Sachsenmühle (after about 4 km), there is a parking bay on your right. Walk back along the road for a few meters, then turn left and cross the wooden bridge. Follow the path to the right to cross the railroad tracks, then turn left. Stay on the hiking path down in the valley. After about 600 meters, just where a little side valley meets the path, walk up a hardly visible path that leads to the lower sector in a few meters.
Coordinates:
Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
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