Access issues

If the grass is high and there is no real path you can walk up the dirt road next to the gravel box, stay left until this ends and then through the undergrowth for just a few meters towards the edge of the forest.


Drive into Egloffstein and follow the signs to Egloffsteinerhüll. Drive through this little village towards Hundsboden up the hill. At a 90° bend in the road, shortly before Hundsboden, park your car on the marked hiker's parking lot. Walk back along the road until you reach a gravel box; turn right and cross the little field and follow the edge of the forest until a path leads you up to the crag.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.


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Grade Route

FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 2007

Start as for Sollenberger Weiße and break out left at the second bolt.

FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 2014

FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 1999

FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 2007

The routes from Hummelsteinerkante to Starkstromautobahn share the same start. This is the leftmost line.

FA: Manfred Obermeier & Hans Frost, 1969

FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 2013

FFA: Peter Müller

FA: Hans Frost & Manfred Obermeier, 1969

Variant finish to "HSG"; follow this, write something in the book and then out left and up.

FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2014

FFA: Michael Schuh, 1996

FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 2006

FFA: Günther Geier

A direct start to MEG.

FFA: Torsten Schüler, 2011

The desperate looking slab.

FFA: Michael Schuh, 1996

Another variant here, if you climb the corner until you can escape to traverse right and up to the chains of TSOS.

FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2014

Set: Heiko Queitsch, 2005

FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 21 Apr 2020

FFA: Tom Heinze

FFA: Uwe Schönfisch, 1999

Old aid climb. Up the chimney to the bolt, then traverse left into "Neue Verschneidung", up this to the last bolt. Pendulum swing left to the finishing crack of "MEG" and up to its anchor.

FA: W. Kreutzer & H. Kreutzer, 1932

FA: Hans Alber, 1932

FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1992

FFA: Klaus Kaumeier

FFA: Sascha Podeiko, 2004

FFA: Tom Heinze

FA: Heiko Queitsch, 1998

FFA: Sascha Podeiko, 2004

FFA: Michael Hemmerlein, 2006

FA: Heiko Queitsch, 2019

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

Date: 2021

Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …

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