Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
5- | Mittlere Talseite - with Merlin, Jonas | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★ Glatzensteinkamin - with Merlin, Jonas | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4 ~4+ | ★★ Glatzensteinkamin - with Christoph Rauch, Jonas | 40m | |||||
Tue 30th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
7- | ★ Bergbaby Lehmann - with Martin Steuer | ||||||
6 | ★★ Tausendpfundweg - with Martin Steuer | 30m | |||||
6- | ★★ Purtscheller Gedenkweg - with Martin Steuer | 40m | |||||
6 | ★★ Tausendpfundweg - with Martin Schubert | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Phenomenal line, has everything I want. Emotions during traversal and crags. The upper shoulder crag probably should not bei done as a crag - there are holds on the right Side.
My endurance is not good enough especially with the rope routing.
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6- | ★★ Purtscheller Gedenkweg - with Martin Schubert | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★ Bergbaby Lehmann - with Florian | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
5+ | ★ Sex mit Graut - with Katja Wagner | 24m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
7- | ★ Bergbaby Lehmann - with Werner Diepolder | ★ Good | |||||
6+ | ★ Heimspiel - with Werner Diepolder, Katja Wagner | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 14th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6- | ★★ Purtscheller Gedenkweg | 40m | |||||
7+ | ★★ Gaffende Proleten | ||||||
6 | ★★ Tausendpfundweg | 30m | |||||
Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6- | ★★ Purtscheller Gedenkweg - with Peter Zahn | 40m | |||||
6+ | ★★ Karre-Schenk-Gedenkweg - with Peter Zahn | 30m | |||||
6+ | ★★ Karre-Schenk-Gedenkweg | 30m | |||||
6+ | ★ Direkter Purtscheller Gedenkweg | 35m | |||||
6- | ★★ Purtscheller Gedenkweg | 40m | |||||
Thu 18th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
7- | ★ Krampfingers Todeswindung | ||||||
5- | Mittlere Talseite (Ententanz) | 20m | |||||
Wed 1st Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
7- | ★ Bergbaby Lehmann | ||||||
Crux ausgekniffen...
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6- | ★★ Weißenbacher Backers (Weißenbacher Baggers) | 30m, 7 | |||||
7 | ★★ Heimatlos | 30m | |||||
7- | ★ Bergbaby Lehmann | Average | |||||
7 | ★★ Heimatlos | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6 6+ | ★ Weissenbacher Weg (Direkteinstieg) - with Luke Walker | 30m, 8 | |||||
7 | ★★ Heimatlos - with Luke Walker | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 16th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
7 | ★★ Männer - with Luke Walker | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 2nd Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
7+ | ★ Frauen | 35m, 8 | |||||
Wed 24th Feb 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Vollrathriss - with mantra | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Incredible feat for 1912. I can imagine they used some wooden chocks back in the day? Would be interesting to know how they climbed this. It's basically a big round flake in the back of a chimney, with fist sized to offwidth cracks on both sides. The first few meters are fine, but then the chimney gets narrower and the footholds worse (at around 10 meters off the ground). Tried a few things to get past that narrow bit but failed to climb it safely, and to make matters worse, got my foot stuck in the right crack. I had to find a no-hand position (still free solo!) to get my foot back out. I already wanted to give up and start downclimbing, when I realised there was a rusty old ring (which looked fine, though) just a meter above me. The biggest cam I had was a blue one, which I then optimistically placed in the narrowest section of crack I could find, and then carefully climbed on, reached the ring, and started to breathe again. Recovered the cam for later after clipping the ring and placed a sling around the only chockstones I could find a few inches higher. From there, the climbing first gets a bit easier, and you can place slightly smaller cams (blue, yellow) safely, but the finish is still challenging regardless!
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7 | ★★ Männer - with mantra | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
A bit wet in the beginning. I think that this part is the crux even with dry rock. Grounder potential, too, a good belayer is key. The top part over the pillar is nice, with lots of air beneath your feet, but the rock quality is quite bad. Make sure no one's below the route while you climb it.
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6+ | ★ Direkter Purtscheller Gedenkweg - with mantra | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wonderful, long route, the direct start is the hardest part. Elegant climbing on good flakes, crux of the upper part is the little diagonal bulge. #warmup
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6+ | ★ Heimspiel - with mantra | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Bold climbing with a big runout on the slab before the final roof. One of the last obvious footholds below the bolt at the end of the runout is split and might come off, take care! Also some loose blocks below the roof, but the necessary holds are bomber.
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Thu 5th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6+ | ★ Heimspiel | 30m | |||||
5- | Mittlere Talseite (Ententanz) | 20m | |||||
5+ | ★ Sex mit Graut | 24m, 10 | |||||
7- | ★ Krampfingers Todeswindungen | ||||||
Wed 16th Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
4 | ★★ Glatzensteinkamin | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Předpokládám že jsem v půlce zabloudil moc doleva a v rozchrastanym vršku málem zahynul... Mělo by to jít nějak středem ale to mi moc nepřislo... možna to zapadalo šutrama a už to nejde? Každopádně si to počítám, za to že jsem málem zahynul )
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6+ | ★★ Karre-Schenk-Gedenkweg | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dost drsný a záludný. Nechtěl jsem se rozbít tak nějaký odsedy byli.
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Tue 19th May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6 6+ | ★ Weissenbacher Weg (Direkteinstieg) - with Fia Weis | 30m, 8 | |||||
Wahrscheinlich ganz nett. Heute so gar nicht mehr.
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7 | ★★ Heimatlos - with Fia Weis | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Schluss an der Kraftcrux
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6+ | ★★ Karre-Schenk-Gedenkweg - with Fia Weis | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Zum zweiten Haken, schade... Schöne Route.
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6- | ★★ Weißenbacher Backers - with Fia Weis | 30m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 14th Sep 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6- | ★★ Weißenbacher Backers - with Jens Maschke | 30m, 7 | |||||
5+ | ★ Sex mit Graut (Sex im Graut) | 24m, 10 | |||||
6+ | ★ Heimspiel - with Jens Maschke | 30m | |||||
Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
7+ | ★ Frauen | 35m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
2nd go
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6 6- | ★★ Weißenbacher Backers | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6- 5+ | ★ Sex mit Graut | 24m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Umlenker sitzt ungünstig, lieber über den Schlaghaken zum Gipfel-UH der Nachbartour.
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6- | ★★ Purtscheller Gedenkweg | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
6+ | ★ Direkter Purtscheller Gedenkweg | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 21st Oct 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
4 | ★★ Glatzensteinkamin - with Bovist | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Impressive line. The longest chimney in the Frankenjura and quite the adventure. Did it in two pitches as described in the old Bühler guidebook (doesn't really make sense to climb it in one go, anyway), bringing up Bovist around half-way up on the ledge with the trees. The scariest part is in pitch two, from the huge chockstone towards the only bolt in the upper section (according to Bühler, instead of climbing to this bolt, it's also possible to bail out and exit the chimney towards the back of the crag), where you need to climb three or four meters of wide chimney. The finish is funny, squeeze through the narrow channel and top out with an amazing view.
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7 | ★★ Heimatlos - with Bovist | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The last time I was here, I was a bit overwhelmed by the exposure and the protection, but I seem to have gained more experience as a climber which will make my experience today much sweeter to remember. Great wall climbing with interesting moves on small crimps and some pockets.
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4 | ★★ Glatzensteinkamin - with Christoph Rauch | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★ Sex mit Graut - with Christoph Rauch | 24m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 19th Aug 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
7 | ★★ Heimatlos | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Männer | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 4th Aug 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
7- | ★ Bergbaby Lehmann | ||||||
Thu 29th Jun 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6 6+ | ★ Weissenbacher Weg (Direkteinstieg) | 30m, 8 | |||||
7- | ★ Krampfingers Todeswindung | ||||||
6+ | ★ Heimspiel | 30m | |||||
5- | Mittlere Talseite (Ententanz) | 20m | |||||
8- | ★★ Sintflut | 30m | |||||
6 | ★★ Tausendpfundweg | 30m | |||||
6+ | ★★ Karre-Schenk-Gedenkweg | 30m | |||||
7 | ★★ Männer | 30m | |||||
7+ | ★ Spiel ohne Grenzen | ||||||
7+ | ★ Frauen | 35m, 8 | |||||
5+ | ★ Sex mit Graut | 24m, 10 | |||||
6+ | ★ Direkter Purtscheller Gedenkweg | 35m | |||||
7- | ★ Bergbaby Lehmann | ||||||
6- | ★ Weissenbacher Weg | 30m | |||||
4 | ★★ Glatzensteinkamin | 40m | |||||
6- | ★★ Purtscheller Gedenkweg | 40m | |||||
7 | ★★ Heimatlos | 30m | |||||
6+ | Eierschwanz | ||||||
6- | ★★ Weißenbacher Backers | 30m, 7 | |||||
Thu 25th May 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
7 | ★★ Heimatlos - with Ales Prech | 30m | |||||
6 6+ | ★ Weissenbacher Weg (Direkteinstieg) - with Ales Prech | 30m, 8 | |||||
Sun 17th Jul 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6 6+ | ★ Weissenbacher Weg (Direkteinstieg) (Direkter Weißenbacher Weg) | 30m, 8 | |||||
7 | ★★ Heimatlos | 30m | |||||
Sun 27th Sep 2015 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
4 | ★★ Glatzensteinkamin | 40m | |||||
Sun 13th Sep 2015 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
5+ | ★ Sex mit Graut | 24m, 10 | |||||
5- | Mittlere Talseite (Ententanz) | 20m | |||||
Sat 5th Sep 2015 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
4 | ★★ Glatzensteinkamin - with Fabian | 40m | |||||
7 | ★★ Heimatlos - with Fabian | 30m | |||||
6+ | ★★ Karre-Schenk-Gedenkweg - with Fabian | 30m | |||||
6- | ★★ Weißenbacher Backers - with Fabian | 30m, 7 | |||||
Fri 31st Jul 2015 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6 6+ | ★ Weissenbacher Weg (Direkteinstieg) (Direkter Weißenbacher Weg) - with Torsten Schierz | 30m, 8 | |||||
7 7- | ★ Bergbaby Lehmann - with Torsten Schierz | ||||||
6- | ★★ Purtscheller Gedenkweg - with Torsten Schierz | 40m | |||||
Tue 14th Apr 2015 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Glatzenstein | |||||||
6- | ★ Sex mit Graut | 24m, 10 | |||||
6- | ★ Sex mit Graut | 24m, 10 | |||||
5- | Mittlere Talseite (Ententanz) | 20m | |||||
7- | ★ Krampfingers Todeswindung | ||||||
6 6+ | ★ Weissenbacher Weg (Direkteinstieg) - with Daniel | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
8- | Ignaz Wurm - with Daniel | 8m | Average | ||||
8- | Ignaz Wurm - with Daniel | 8m | Average |