Gößweinstein Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Gößweinstein 429 routes in Area

23 7 8 6 5 18 4 21 16 20 3 19 2 1 10 9 22 27 28 17 15 14 13 11 12 26 24 25 29

1 Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände 2 Untere Gößweinsteiner Wände 3 Martinswand 4 Schwalbenstein 5 Napoleon 6 Emporwand 7 Fehensteine 8 Eibenwände 9 Wickenstein 10 Gernerfels 11 Bärenstein 12 Im Bärenkäfig 13 Bärensteinwände 14 Breitenberg Südwand 15 Fellner Dolinenwand 16 Breitenberger Nordwand 17 Breitenberg Parkplatzwand 18 Oma Eichler Wand 19 Kesselpfeiler 20 Tanzboden 21 Aussichtsfels am Breitenberg 22 Silvesterfels 23 Freibadwand 24 Lustige Zaubererwand 25 Lustige Wand 26 Vogeltränke 27 Frankenwohnheim 28 Zaubererturm 29 Elfenwelt

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.767360, 11.342063

access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

• Zone 1: NO climbing
• Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
• Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

ethic

• The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
• Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
• Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
• Don't leave toilet paper.
• Pick up rubbish.
• No unnecessary noise.
• No camp fire and bivvy.
• Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
• Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
• No publishing of boulder blocks.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

1.1. Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.768472, 11.329143

summary

Historic crag, home to the Frankenjura's first route in the lower 9th grade UIAA, "Sautanz", by Kurt Albert †. Mostly vertical pocket climbing.

description

Fantastic crag with lots of classics from the golden era of Frankenjura sport climbing.

approach

Park at the hiker's parking lot at the northern end of the street "An der Martinswand". From the parking lot, follow a broad path to the west, which leads you directly to the east face of the crag in two minutes.

GPS: 11.32905, 49.76864

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Ostseite
2		Überdosis FFA: Stefan Löw, 2008	8+	Sport 20m
3		Südostkante - Direkteinstieg	8-	Sport 20m
4		Der goldene Schuss Set: Peter Bayer FFA: Moritz Perwitzschky, Jun 2021	9+	Sport 20m
5		★★ Südostkante	7+	Sport 20m
6		Save Our Sausages FFA: Georg Sprachmann, 1988	9-	Sport 20m
7		Kottan ermittelt FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1985	8+	Sport 20m
8		C.D.I.N.V / L.d.J.n.v. FFA: Stefan Elsässer	8	Sport 20m
9		★ Lustgewinn	8-	Sport 20m
10		★ Dynamo	8-	Sport 10m
11		★ Genießerspalte	6-	Sport 15m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
12		★★ Kalauer FFA: Kurt Albert † & Wolfgang Güllich †, 1980	8	Sport 20m
13		Ich war der Märchenprinz	9-/9	Sport 20m
Nordwand linker Teil
15		★★ LK-Riss	6-	Sport 20m
16		Eisheiliger	9-	Sport 20m
17		LK-Riss Direkteinstieg	9-	Sport 20m
18		Alaric	9+	Sport 20m
19		★★★ Kleiner Muck FFA: Wolfgang Güllich † & Kurt Albert †, 1981	8+	Sport 20m
20		Frankie Goes to Frankenjura	8	Sport 20m
21		Skyhook FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981	8-	Sport 20m
22		Kleiner Kamin	5+	Sport 20m
23		★★ Klimbim	7-	Sport 20m
24		★★ Mai DaNi	6+	Sport 20m
25		★★ Zwillingriss	5	Mixed trad 20m, 3
26		★ Kaffeemaus Direct finish to "Danzer Gedenkweg". FFA: Daniel Frischbier	7+	Sport 18m
27		★ Danzer Gedenkweg	6-	Sport 20m
28		★ Rotkehlchen	7+	Sport 20m
29		★ Kurze Acht FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981	8-	Sport 10m
Nordwand rechter Teil
31		Hangover Climbing forbidden (Zone 1)	6-	Sport 20m
32		Martinskamin Climbing forbidden (Zone 1)	4	Sport 20m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
33		★★ Seitenstreifen FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1986	8-	Sport 20m, 4
34		★★ Haringer Gedenkweg	6+	Sport 20m
35		★★ Haringer Gedenkweg direkt	7-	Sport 20m
36		★★ Schleimspur Set: Wolfgang Güllich † FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981	9-	Sport 20m, 4
37		★★ No Chance With Galoshkies FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1983	9-	Sport 20m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
38		★★★ Sautanz FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981 FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981	9-	Sport 20m
39		★★★ Katapult FFA: Michael Schlotter, 1984	9	Sport 18m
40		★★★ Humbug FFA: Kurt Albert † & Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981	9-	Sport 20m, 4
41		Sprungschanze FFA: Bernhard Thum	9-	Sport 20m
42		Nordverschneidung	5-	Sport 20m
43		★★ Never Stop Exploring	7-	Sport 18m
44		★★★ Bunte Wand Variante	8-	Sport 15m
45		★★ Bunte Wand	7	Sport 15m
46		★ Stabeler Gedenkweg well protected	6	Sport 15m
47		★★ Piazriss	6	Sport 20m
48		★ Say Yeah The first bolt is quite high.	6+	Sport 15m

1.2. Untere Gößweinsteiner Wände 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.768646, 11.329916

summary

Small north face in the forest with good, pocketed routes.

description

Actually, what remains of the crag "Untere Gößweinsteiner Wände" is just what is called "Wiesenttalwand", after everything else between it and "Martinswand" had been banned for climbing in the early 90s in accordance with the climbing concepts worked out between climbers and officials.

Notwithstanding, the remaining crag offers high quality pocketed routes and is worth a visit on its own, not just passing by for "Martinswand".

approach

GPS: 11.32994, 49.76865

1.3. Martinswand 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.768874, 11.328197

summary

One of the few crags which offer some Grade 6+ climbs which stay dry if it starts raining. Sometimes it seeps after long periods of rain, though.

description

One of the highest crags in the Frankenjura, and after the rebolting efforts of Stefan Löw certainly worth a visit. Some real gems here, long and sustained climbs, bring your 70m rope!

approach

Drive from the center of Gössweinstein west towards Morschreuth. just before you reach the gas station, turn right into a road named "An der Martinswand", straight down to the parking lot at its end. Walk further down for a few meters and turn left onto a small path. Follow this along leftwards without loosing too much height until you reach the crag. GPS: 11.32836, 49.76913

1.4. Schwalbenstein 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.769179, 11.327804

approach

GPS: 11.32808, 49.76930

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Alte Talseite	4	Mixed trad 20m, 4
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		★ Mauersegler FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1986	8+	Sport 12m, 1
3		★★ Aktion Schokoladenpudding Set: Klemens Nicklaus, 1985 FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1985	8	Sport 15m
4		★★ Sachsendiplom FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1986	8	Sport 15m
5		★★ Westwand	5+	Sport 20m
6		★ Berglustweg FFA: Klemens Nicklaus & Jens Teichman, 1986	6-	Sport 18m
7		Direkter Berglustweg	8-	Sport 18m
8		★ Bordsteinschwalbe	8-	Sport 15m
9		★★ Südwand	5+	Sport 25m
10		★★ Legebohrer FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1985	8-	Sport 27m

1.5. Napoleon 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.769669, 11.331253

summary

High, two-summited tower with amazing climbs in many grades.

description

The big "Napoleon" tower consists of two summits, the "Napoleonsblock" and the amazingly thin "Napoleonswand", separated by a plateau. Both summits are reachable via a few exquisite climbs in various grades; the "Block", for example, via the brilliant classic "Westriss", the fantastic "Freundschaftsweg" and the bold "Membrane"; the summit of the "Wand" is often reached by climbing up the "Plateau Normalweg" and choosing one of "Nordkante", "Ostwand" and "Westwand" from there, but there are also good lines from the ground, like the stunning "Südkante" and the bold "Direkte Ostwand".

approach

In Gößweinstein, drive into "An der Martinswand" (diagonally opposite the petrol station); there is a parking lot for hikers at the end. From there, follow the hiking path north to reach the crag after a few meters.

1.6. Emporwand 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.769809, 11.331705

summary

Imposing wall with generous lines (nuts, slings, friends recommended) and three Martin Grulich classics in the 7th grade.

approach

In Gößweinstein, drive into "An der Martinswand" (diagonally opposite the petrol station); there is a parking lot for hikers at the end. From there, follow the hiking path north to reach "Napoleon" after a few meters, pass it on the south end towards the east and you can already see the crag before you.

GPS: 11.33170, 49.76981

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Narrenriss FFA: Herbert Konnerth & Manfred Zink, 1982	5+	Mixed trad 16m, 2
2		★ Salamanderweg	6	Sport 18m
3		★ Handschuhfach FFA: Fritz Müller, 1979	5+	Sport 20m
4		Las curvas d'Ari FFA: Christian Winklmair, 2006	8+	Sport
5		★★ Emporkamin	6-	Mixed trad 25m, 3
6		★★ Choleravariante	6	Mixed trad 25m, 4
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
7		★ 1984 FFA: Martin Grulich, 1984	7+	Sport 25m
8		★★ Silberner Oskar FFA: Martin Grulich, 1984	7	Sport 23m
9		★★ Jericho FFA: Martin Grulich, 1984	7	Sport 23m
10		★ Emporweg Long traverse left from the bolt of "Westriss"; somehow pass the tree (no longer climbable freely) and cross "Jericho" and "Silberner Oskar" to the northwest arête; use the bolt around the arête, then follow the arête to the top.	6	Sport 30m
11		★★★ Westriss	6-	Mixed trad 1
12		Westkamin	5	Trad
13		★ Fröschliweg	7-	Sport 16m, 4

1.7. Fehensteine 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.773388, 11.337477

approach

GPS: 11.33729, 49.77378

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Schlupfkamin	4-	Trad 10m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		Linker Hick Hack	6	Sport 25m, 4
3		Direkter Hick Hack / Rechter Hick Hack	6+	Sport 20m, 3
4		Hick Hack FA: Willfried Engel	6	Sport 25m, 3
5		★★ Husarenstreich	6	Sport 20m, 4
6		Westseite slings!	2	Mixed trad 20m, 1
7		★ Westwand	6-	Sport 10m
8		Bahnhof Gößweinstein	5-	Mixed trad 15m, 2
9		★ Rue de Inge	6-	Sport 15m, 4
10		★ Bergseite	4	Trad
11		Lippe	6+	Sport 15m, 2
12		Der grüne Heinrich	6	Sport 15m, 1
13		Pensionistenquerung	6-	Sport 5
14		Sabberlott	8	Sport 20m, 7
15		★★ Dornröschenpfeiler	6	Sport 25m, 5
16		Flechtenkamin FFA: Michael Wörz, 1981	3	Trad 20m
17		★ Biologenriss FFA: Randolf Hager, 1981	6	Sport 15m, 3

1.8. Eibenwände 77 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 Left 2 Centre 3 Right

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 49.772808, 11.336348

summary

Large crag with lots of easy to mid-range routes, mostly slabby to vertical, best enjoyed during the summer months due to its north-west aspect.

description

This large summer crag, stretching out for about 200 meters, has to offer something for everyone. At the left end, a small free-standing tower called "Gnom" waits with nice pleasure lines in its west face ("Linke Westwand", "Rechte Westwand") and hard testpieces ("Nonplusultra", "Superfly") in its north face.

To the right of the gnome, "Kaffeepause" and "Hobbitkante" are worth pointing out.

The central sector continues this varied supply of routes; worth mentioning: "Gerader Riss" (easy to protect trad line) and "Halve Hahn" (tricky wall climbing on pockets and crimps).

Three good routes right next to each other in the seventh grade (UIAA) can be found in the right sector ("Sepplriss", "Schlendrian", "Volle Lotte").

approach

In Gößweinstein, follow the main road in the direction of Behringersmühle. Before leaving the village, turn left into Badangerstraße and park your car (considerably, do not obstruct the road) around here (49.774427, 11.339476). Walk down Badangerstraße past "Hotel Stempferhof". After going downhill for a few meters, you will see a yellow bench. Turn left here and follow the broad path for 200 meters. The crag is just above the path.

history

This crag functioned as a precursor to the zoning concepts regulating the interplay of climbing and nature/bird protection. In 1992, it was the first crag (together with "Weiße Wand") for which regulations have been worked out between the local government, several nature conservation groups, the german alpine club (DAV) and the IG Klettern (pressure group climbing), providing a compromise between perpetuating important climbing destinations for the sport and maintaining habitats for rare or endangered species of plants and animals.

1.8.1. Left 27 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.773099, 11.336926

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Klettereien links vom Gnom
2		? 14.08.2022: Bohrhaken und Umlenker sind entfernt worden	7	Sport 2
3		(unnamed crack)	5+	Mixed trad 20m, 1
4		Langer Riss	5-	Mixed trad 25m, 2
5		★★ Halb so wild	7-	Sport 20m, 4
Gnom Small free-standing tower, connected to the wall through a big chockstone in the chimney.
7		Simpelkamin	3+	Sport 25m, 1
8		★ Kalte Zeiten	7+	Sport 3
9		★★ Nonplusultra FA: 1990	8	Sport 18m, 4
10		★★ Superfly	7+	Sport 18m, 4
11		★★ Direkter Einstieg direct start to Nussknacker	7	Sport 3
12		★ Nussknacker	7	Sport 23m, 4
13		★★ Linke Westwand	5	Sport 20m, 4
14		★ Rechte Westwand	6	Sport 20m, 4
Klettereien rechts vom Gnom
16		Castor	4+	Trad 12m
17		Pollux	4+	Trad 12m
18		★★ Kaffeepause	6+	Sport 14m, 4
19		★ Hobbitkante	4+	Sport 16m, 1
20		Trouble with Terry	4	Mixed trad 15m, 1
21		★★ Weg durch den Pelz	6+	Sport 15m, 2
22		Rippe	5-	Trad 15m
23		Freddy Krüger	7+	Trad
24		Zerrer	8-	Sport
25		★ Wichtelriss	6	Mixed trad 14m, 2
26		★ Hallodri	6	Sport 14m, 3
27		Grattlerkamin	5-	Trad
28		★★ Grattlerkante	7+	Sport 14m, 3
29		★★ Elfenweg	6	Sport 14m, 2
30		Elfenverschneidung	4	Trad

1.8.2. Centre 32 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.772782, 11.336348

1.8.3. Right 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 49.772518, 11.335775

approach

GPS: 11.33560, 49.77269

1.9. Wickenstein 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.767753, 11.335511

summary

Small crag in the middle of Gößweinstein featuring a pocketed slab covered by a powerful overhang.

description

The main part of Wickenstein offers three routes around the lower 8th grade UIAA with a slabby start and an overhanging finish; the rock quality is perfect.

On the right, there are two shorter routes through a roof-like overhang with dubious protection, and a very good (and recently re-equipped), vertical route in the seventh grade.

approach

There is free parking available at the end of the small street "An der Martinswand" (same parking as for e.g. Napoleon). Walk back up to the main street, and walk into "Gartenweg" (diagonally left across the street). After a few meters, turn left into "Gartenstraße" and shortly after, turn right again to reach the crag in a few meters.

GPS: 11.33552, 49.76773

1.10. Gernerfels 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.768165, 11.336014

summary

Small, but iconic crag with overhanging classics.

description

The three main routes here share the same characteristics: small holds and slabby in the beginning, then a powerful, steep overhang. The middle one, "Supernase", is well-known for Wolfgang Güllich †'s solo ascents in the 80s. The route is accompanied to the left with another classic Martin Grulich route, "Albatros", and to the right with a later addition by Stefan Löw, "Top Ten". A good warmup route is the vertical crack line of "Gaffer im Nacken".

access issues

This is as much in someone's personal space as it gets, so please be careful here! You can chat to the owners of the place since you're in their garden in front of the terrace. Stay away in the evenings and on Sundays.

approach

GPS: 11.33591, 49.76817

1.11. Bärenstein 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.763227, 11.332265

summary

Small north face on the top of a hill with slightly overhanging, extremely pocketed rock.

description

A worthwile crag with a literal handful of routes. All the routes in the seventh grade are worth doing and offer overhanging climbing on amazing pockets.

approach

Please do not park in the residential area around the street "Am Bärenstein" but

• Park at the sports field's at (49.76364, 11.34357) and walk the 1.2km to the ⛰️ in the west at (49.7632, 11.33232)
• Park on an official parking in Gößweinstein, for example the for hikers and climbers at (49.76823, 11.33362) near the north end of the small street "An der Martinswand". From there, walk south-west to the gas station (Raimund), turn left into the street "Am Bärenstein" and follow it till the beginning of the left curve, where a hiking path towards Stadelhofen leads slightly uphill. Pass the open area on the left and follow the trail through a little ravine up the hill; shortly before you reach the viewpoint on top of the hill, branch off to the right to the routes.

For more information, see blog post of IG Klettern (German)

1.12. Im Bärenkäfig 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.761956, 11.333969

approach

Bitte am Sportplatz parken (49.76364, 11.34357). Siehe https://ig-klettern.org/2020/06/parkplatzsituation-am-baerenstein/

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Bärige Kante	5-	Sport 10m, 3
2		★★ Bärendreck	4	Sport 12m, 4
3		★ Der Bär ist los	4	Sport 12m
4		★★ Bärlauch	6	Sport 10m, 4
5		★ Hier tanzt der Bär	5-	Sport 12m, 5
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
6		★ Faulpelz	5-	Sport 10m, 3
7		★ Bärenmarke	6-	Sport 10m, 3
8		★★ Goldbär	7-	Sport 10m, 4
9		★★ Mehl-Beer	6+	Sport 12m
10		★★ Bärentest	6+	Sport 12m

1.13. Bärensteinwände 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.763524, 11.331040

approach

Bitte am Sportplatz parken (49.76364, 11.34357). Siehe https://ig-klettern.org/2020/06/parkplatzsituation-am-baerenstein/

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Links
2		R13	3-	Sport 8m, 1
3		R12	4-	Sport 8m, 3
4		★ R11	3+	Sport 8m, 4
5		R10	4-	Sport 10m, 4
Mitte
7		R9	6+	Sport
8		R8	6+	Sport
9		R7	7-	Sport
10		Hueco directamente	7-/7	Sport
11		Hueco grandioso	7-	Sport
12		★★ R6	6+	Sport 12m
13		★ R5	6	Sport 10m
14		★★ R4	7+	Sport
15		★★ Erbarme, zu spät FFA: 2015	6-	Sport 12m, 6
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Rechts
17		★ Old Wabble	5	Sport 12m
18		★ Anakonda	7-	Sport 12m
19		R3	6+	Sport 12m
20		★ halbe Sau	7	Sport 12m
21		★★ ?	5+/6-	SportProject 8m
22		Small Devils run	5+	Sport 8m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Ganz rechts this sector is far away to west
24		★★ Gut und sicher	6+	Sport 10m, 3
25		★ Logik FA: S.Bartsch, 2017	6-	Sport 10m, 3
26		Querbeet	4	Sport 8m
27		★ Querdenker	6+	Sport 10m, 3
28		★ R2	6+	Sport 10m, 3
29		★★ Hochmut kommt vor dem Fall	8-	Sport 10m, 4
30		★★ R1	6-	Sport 10m, 3

1.14. Breitenberg Südwand 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.766468, 11.349666

summary

Sunny sport climbs, partly chossy, pretty easy for the grades.

access issues

"Zone 2" classification, i.e. no new routes

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Nordlicht Im unteren Bereich selbst abzusichern, oben wie Schlingenweg.	6-	Mixed trad 10m, 1
2		★ Schlingenweg	6+	Sport 10m, 2
3		★★ Je t'aime	7	Sport 10m, 2
4		★ Scharfes Luder	7	Sport 10m, 2
5		★ Wassermann	6	Sport 11m, 3
6		★ Rechter Kantenweg	6+	Sport 11m, 3
7		★ Jungfrau	5+	Sport 10m, 3
8		★★ Neigsabbt	5	Sport 10m, 3
9		Frettchenweg / 1. April Weg	4	Trad 10m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
10		★ April-Flocke	4+	Sport 11m, 2
11		★★ Siebenschläfer	6-	Sport 15m, 3
12		O sole mio FA: Burkhard Müller, 2002	5	Trad 12m
13		★★ Löwe #beginners	4	Sport 15m, 3
14		★★ Barbarelli-Weg	4+	Sport 16m, 4
15		★★ Stier	3+	Sport 12m, 4
16		Waage	4	Trad 12m
17		★★ Krebs	4	Sport 12m, 3
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
18		★★ Geil und brüchig Rightmost and longest route of the crag. Traverse just below the arête. Quite chossy.	6+	Sport 13m, 5