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Seasonality

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Summary

Free-standing tower in an idyllic valley with great routes in fantastic rock in the south face.

Description

Also known as "Säukerng" among the locals due to the small cave beneath it which was supposedly used to hide pigs ("Säue") in former times, the rock tower offers sunny climbs in the intermediate grades in the south face. The rock quality is perfect for the most part. There are also two routes in the shady backside, but they are climbed much less often and are therefore slightly vegetated. The most common way to get to the summit is via "Direkte Bergseite".

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

GPS: 11.27633, 49.98215

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Ludwig Ruß, 1949

FA: Fritz Konrad, Sebastian Görtler & Johann Leuchsner, 1931

FFA: Karl Thon, 1999

FA: Jürgen Kremer & Michael Renner, 2001

FA: Karl Thon, 1999

FA: 1923

FA: Karl Thon, 1999

FA: Karl Thon, 1999

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