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Summary

Bulky tower at the north-west end of Maximilianswand, home of the world's first 11- (FB 8c) "Wallstreet" and several other classics.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive from Krottensee towards Maximiliansgrotte and past its parking lot further into the forest. After 2 km on the forest road (always keep straight), there is a small bay on the left with a big info sign. Park here and walk east into the forest on a well-visible path. You'll see the crag after a few meters.

Coordinates:

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: André Behr, 1996

FA: Kurt Albert †, 1972

Rather technical, not so steep route. Classic! According to several authors still a reference route for the grade F8a, maybe even harder nowadays.

The world's first 11- (8c)! 10 intense moves that would merit circa 8A boulder.

Ascents

Greenpointed by Heiko Queitsch in 2011.

FFA: John Bachar, 1981

FFA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981

FA: Thomas Hoffmann, 2007

FFA: Norbert Bätz

FFA: John Bachar, 1981

FFA: John Bachar, 1981

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 1991

These boulders are located in the vicinity of the Krottenseer Turm. The exact location is not given to avoid issues with the "Boulder ban" described in the ethics section.

FA: Alex Megos, Jul 2020

Information needed

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Activity

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