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Geheimbund

27

Seasonality

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Summary

A great little crag well worth a visit if you are after a shady crag with a good range of grades. The climbs are short but varied and the rock quality is good.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive from Neuhaus towards Auerbach, 2.4km after leaving Neuhaus is a small sealed road to your right (100m before you reach a chapel). stay on this as along as you are allowed, park here. Follow the left of the two closed dirt roads for 500m, at the intersection with the walking track "red cross" turn left, at the highest point of the track (200m) turn left for about 50m and then down to the left to reach the crag. GPS: 11.60306, 49.64112

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

Set: Tobias Richter

FFA: Nico Arnold, 2019

Don't be afraid of the slab, its the meaty start that throws 'em off.

FFA: N. Arnold

Face start, techy corner and a funky top section make this much more varied than the length suggests, the pick of the bunch on this pinacle.

the bold arete

the name suggests that you have to use your feet on this one

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