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Seasonality

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Summary

Very popular with a huge grade range and sun on the south side, shade all day on the north east side of the crag.

Description

Bring some wires for additional protection, you can expect there to be bolts when it gets tough though. This is mostly the case because the crag offers more "natural lines" than many other crags in Franken. Expect some great corners, cracks but of course no shortage of pockets either!

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive from Betzenstein to Leupoldstein, in L. turn left and when the road bends rightwards turn left again into a little sideroad next to the bus stop. Down this for a bit until you can see a parking spot on the right (and possibly a lot of cars). Park here (49.692868, 11.391619). Please drive slowly for the neighbours with kids and animals. Walk to the edge of the forest, some rock might peak out above. Creep into the left side which is southfacing or rightwards to the long NE face.

GPS: (49.69267, 11.39073)

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

The south face - most routes have sun.

short, a litte bit polished, but still very nice. photogenic line!

FA: Günther Bram, 1980

FA: K.Schalk, 1980

FA: Ernst Pickl, 1980

FA: Günther Bram, 1980

FA: Rolf Schweickert, 1994

cool looking faceclimb!

FA: Thomas Pickl, 1988

FA: K.Schalk, 1980

FA: Ernst Pickl, 1988

FA: Ernst Pickl, 1988

DA zum 'Gourmet'

FA: Torsten Schierz, 2017

Warning Flora and Fauna: Bees

FA: Ernst Pickl, 1987

FA: Günther Bram, 1980

FA: K.Schalk, 1980

FA: Günther Bram, 1980

FFA: Günther Bram, 1980

Main wall - north side and shady

FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 2018

FA: Ernst Pickl, 1987

The slick offwidth corner will keep you on your toes, literally.(using your rear and shoulders is allowed)

FFA: Toni Erdenkäufer, 1987

like many routes on this wall it's very solid grading

FFA: Gerald Pickl & Toni Erdenkäufer, 1987

FFA: Heiko Queitsch, 2 Oct 2018

FFA: A.Erdenkäufer, 1990

interesting and balancy climbing, lots of bolts make this one popular.

FA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2005

a solid crux will seperate the ones who know what to do with their feet. easier for short people.

FA: Team Schauer, 2012

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