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UIAA

Seasonality

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Summary

One of the highest climbable rock faces in the Frankenjura. Alpine touch due to lots of ledges.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive from Rupprechtstegen towards Velden. Shortly after exiting Lungsdorf, just after passing beneath the railroad bridge, turn right over a bridge to a parking area.

Walk east for 150 meters and you'll arrive directly below the wall.

Coordinates:

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Tom Heinze & Wolfgang Nicklaus, 1987

FFA: Wolfgang Nicklaus & Tom Heinze, 1987

Alternative second pitch to "Noriswand"; the obvious diagonal crack line below the roofs starting on the left end of the big ledge.

FA: Konni Schuhmann, 1975

1 5
2 6-
3 2
4 6
  1. Either crawl in from the right to the big ledge at about 10 m height, or climb up to the grassy ledge 3 m below it, traverse left to the cave, and go up left of it.

  2. Up the obvious crack dihedral, at its end to a belay on the left.

  3. Either go back to the right and up, or directly up above the belay (more vegetation), then up via grassy ledges to the base of the upper wall. Belay below the crack dihedral on the left.

  4. Up the overhanging crack dihedral, then straight up to another ledge, slightly right into a corner and up to the bolted belay below the summit.

FA: Konrad Oed & C. Gruber, 1928

FFA: Jens Richter, 1987

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Activity

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