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Martinswand

29

Seasonality

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Summary

One of the few crags which offer some Grade 6+ climbs which stay dry if it starts raining. Sometimes it seeps after long periods of rain, though.

Description

One of the highest crags in the Frankenjura, and after the rebolting efforts of Stefan Löw certainly worth a visit. Some real gems here, long and sustained climbs, bring your 70m rope!

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from the center of Gössweinstein west towards Morschreuth. just before you reach the gas station, turn right into a road named "An der Martinswand", straight down to the parking lot at its end. Walk further down for a few meters and turn left onto a small path. Follow this along leftwards without loosing too much height until you reach the crag. GPS: 11.32836, 49.76913

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2010

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1985

Chimney start and a technical middle section lead to a bum-shaped crack. Don't put your fingers in too far! Rewarding.

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2010

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2008

FFA: Michael Schlotter

Starts like "Den süßen Mädchen", but takes the left line over the bulge.

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2015

Shares the start; after the technical start, you have to gain some choss but don't worry, right after the rooflet the rock improves and the climbing makes up for it, sweet girls …

FFA: Ernst Hunsicker

A right exit to "Den süßen Mädchen".

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2008

A real adventure! Fantastic and varied, the first bolt is quite high and you might want to back it up with natural pro. If you know how to use doubles it's easily climbed in one pitch, but you can set up belay in the middle if you want. Finish off at the chains of Fernfahrer if you want to lower off.

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1986

You need to jump to the first hold from the ground.

FA: Uwe Kämpf, Uwe Kröppel, Walter Prell & Harald Prell, 1985

FFA: Moritz Perwitzschky, 24 Jul 2019

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2007

FFA: Mike Bauer, 2010

FA: Kurt Schleßinger & Bernhard Schleßinger

FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 5 Jul 2019

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2006

FFA: Hajmo Lang, 2017

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2007

Set by Klaus Kaumeier & Stefan Löw

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 2018

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2008

Crack climbing with a steep finish added. Very good! It might feel quite solid for the grade if you come straight from the gym.

1 5+ 20m
2 6+ 25m
3 6 10m
1 6+ 25m
2 7- 25m
3 5+ 8m

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