Help
10
UIAA

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Classic crag with long, sometimes serious climbs with alpine touch.

Description

One of the big alpine walls of the Frankenjura. First conquered in 1929 via the still challenging "Norisbaba", which, as an aid climb, offered perfect practice for the alps (and still does so nowadays when climbed freely): with several rope manoeuvres like a tension traverse and an intermediate abseil, as well as offering a great variety of styles, including chimney, wall, crack, and dihedral climbing in various inclinations. The other routes here share similar traits, being long, often slightly serious climbs with varying rock quality and a lot of exposure.

An 80 meter rope is required to abseil from most of the anchors. Wearing a helmet is highly recommended.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Driving from Muggendorf towards Behringersmühle, about 1 km after the turnoff towards Gößweinstein, there's a small lay-by for at most 2 cars on the right (there's a small plaque with a saying there), park here. Walk along the street towards Behringersmühle for a few meters and watch the brushwood on the left side of the road for a small track that leads you just behind the big fence for holding off rockfall. Walk behind the fence for a few meters and then just follow your nose up to the crag.

Coordinates:

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Up the large dihedral at the left end of the wall (2 bolts), then traverse right to the stance after the abseil/downclimb in "Norisbaba". Like "Norisbaba" to the top.

FA: K. Römming, E. Baier & Konrad Oed, 1931

Best lower off at the belay with the metal box.

FA: Kurt Schleßinger & Bernhard Schleßinger, 1971

Second pitch of "Pfeilerweg". Unsure if this has been freed.

FA: Kurt Schleßinger & Bernhard Schleßinger, 1971

Originally just the right-hand finish to "Sarg" (at 8-), now extended via the technical slab in the middle (start via Norisbaba Direkteinstieg) or even from the ground (a little splintery).

FFA: Peter Müller

Traverse left on a narrow ledge from the beginning of the chimney, then follow the obvious dihedral to the belay ledge of "Norisbaba".

  1. Climb the chimney on the inside, then step out at the big (wobbly) chockstone to a bolt (with red point).

  2. Traverse left to the dihedral, then up to the belay stance on the balcony.

  3. Traverse down and left (or abseil) to another stance (bolt) or traverse a bit further up to a bolt, then go up and left into the dihedral and straight up over two little overhangs to the top.

FA: Ferdinand Dassler & Georg Bäumler, 1929

The line of the crag. Climb the chimney on the outside (don't fall before the second bolt!) to its very end, then traverse left to a bolt below the overhanging finishing crack, the "coffin".

FA: Otto Reus, 1957

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1974

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Norisbabawand.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文